Reims: More Than Champagne

Reims seemed like an easy choice for a day trip from Paris. The TGV gets there quickly, and the city is famous for Champagne. We figured we could see the highlights, visit a Champagne house, and return to Paris that evening. Boy, were we wrong. Reims is a place to spend more than a day.

Champagne may have put Reims on the international map, but it is only part of the city’s story. Reims played an important role in the history of the French monarchy. Its great cathedral beheld royal coronations for centuries. The city also surprised us with its Art Deco architecture, a legacy of rebuilding after World War I.

People walk and sit near a grand historic building with arched windows and columns on a sunny day in Reims; another classical building is visible in the background. — Reims Opera House

Between the historic sites, we walked through squares, stopped for lunch, and simply wandered through the city. We also descended deep beneath Reims into ancient Champagne cellars. The more we saw, the less Reims felt like somewhere we should rush through.

Table of Contents

From Paris to Reims by TGV

One reason Reims works so well as a trip from Paris is how easy it is to reach. We headed to Gare de l’Est and boarded a TGV for the short journey east. The fastest trains make the trip in about 45 minutes. That puts Reims remarkably close to Paris despite how different the two cities feel.

A white SNCF TGV InOui train is stopped at a station platform at night; people are walking along the platform next to the train under a covered roof. — TGV Train at Gare de l’Est

Ticket prices vary depending on departure time, availability, and class of service. We paid €79 each for round-trip tickets in second class. Booking ahead can provide better fares, particularly for popular departure times.

Reims station sits within easy walking distance of the historic center, so we had no need for a taxi. After leaving the station, we simply started walking toward the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims.

Where French Kings Were Crowned

Our first destination was the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims. Its scale becomes apparent well before reaching the entrance. We took time to walk around the exterior before going inside.

Gothic cathedral with twin towers, intricate stonework, and large rose window, framed by green trees under a blue sky. People sit on benches in the foreground, taking in the serene view of the Reims landmark. — Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims – One of France’s Great Gothic Monuments

The cathedral is one of France’s great Gothic monuments, but its importance extends beyond its architecture. For centuries, Reims stood at the center of the relationship between the French monarchy and the Catholic Church.

A Masterpiece of Gothic Architecture

Construction of the present cathedral began in 1211 after a fire damaged an earlier church on the site. Its builders embraced the developing High Gothic style. They created soaring vaults, large windows, and an unusually rich program of sculpture.

The western façade is particularly elaborate. Hundreds of sculpted figures are woven into the architecture rather than simply attached to it. Among the best known is the Smiling Angel, whose expression feels surprisingly animated for a medieval sculpture.

Gothic cathedral entrance with ornate stone carvings, large wooden doors, and people standing below. A circular stained glass window is above the doorway, and statues decorate the facade. — High Gothic Style

Detailed stone carvings of standing figures, including angels and saints, are on the exterior wall of a Gothic cathedral near a wooden door, with smaller sculpted heads arrayed vertically beside them. — High Gothic Style

The interior is equally impressive. The soaring nave emphasizes height and light, while stained-glass windows add color throughout the building. Some medieval glass survives, but the cathedral also contains striking modern additions. Marc Chagall designed windows installed in the apse during the 20th century.

Stone church interior with high arched ceilings and tall, vibrant blue stained glass windows above an altar. Marble columns line the curved walls, illuminated by soft lighting. — Windows Designed by Marc Chagall

The Coronation Church of France

The cathedral’s greatest historical distinction comes from its connection to France’s kings. Reims became the traditional setting for royal coronations because of an event centuries earlier. Around the year 500, Bishop Remi baptized Clovis, king of the Franks, in Reims.

Interior of a grand Gothic cathedral in Reims with tall vaulted ceilings, arched columns, intricate stonework, chandeliers, rows of wooden chairs, large stained glass windows, and a few people inside. — The Soaring Height of the Nave

People stand inside a grand cathedral in Reims with tall stone columns, vaulted ceilings, and two large circular stained glass rose windows above a wooden door at the far end. Rows of empty chairs fill the foreground. — The Soaring Height of the Nave

That event eventually linked the city with the sacred legitimacy of the French monarchy. Twenty-five royal coronations later took place inside the cathedral. The last was Charles X in 1825.

Destruction, Restoration and UNESCO Recognition

The cathedral also became part of modern French history during World War I. German shelling badly damaged it when much of Reims suffered extensive destruction. A fire in 1914 caused particularly serious damage to the roof, sculpture, and stained glass.

A grand cathedral interior with vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows, a large ornate organ, and a golden altar at the center. Two people stand near the organ, emphasizing the vast scale of the space. — The Flamboyant Gothic Style Grand Organ

Interior of a grand Gothic cathedral with tall stone arches, stained glass windows, and an ornate altar surrounded by columns, benches, and intricate architectural details. — The Flamboyant Gothic Style Grand Organ

The lengthy restoration became part of the broader rebuilding of Reims. The reconstructed roof even incorporated a reinforced-concrete framework, a modern solution hidden above the medieval interior.

In 1991, UNESCO added Notre-Dame, the former Abbey of Saint-Remi, and the Palace of Tau to its World Heritage List. The three sites share important connections to the French monarchy and its coronation traditions. The Palace of Tau stands directly beside the cathedral. It was closed for a major restoration project during our visit, so we could not go inside.

A Gothic cathedral with tall spires, arched windows, and detailed stonework, reminiscent of Reims Cathedral, seen under a clear blue sky, surrounded by grass and trees. — The Cathedral’s Chevet with Five Radiating Chapels

Beyond the Cathedral

Leaving Notre-Dame, we continued exploring Reims on foot. One pleasure of the compact center is that walking between major historical sites rarely feels like simply getting somewhere. Historic buildings, reconstructed façades, shops, and cafés fill the streets.

A short walk brought us to Place Royale, an elegant square created during the 18th century. Its centerpiece is a bronze statue of Louis XV. The original royal statue was destroyed during the French Revolution, while the current monument dates from the 19th century.

Historic stone building with tall windows, arched doorways, and shops on the ground floor; reminiscent of the timeless elegance found in Reims. An empty cobblestone plaza stretches out beneath a clear blue sky. — 18th-Century French Classical Buildings at Place Royale

Place Royale isn’t somewhere we would consider an essential stop on its own. However, it fit naturally into our walk through the center. It also provided another glimpse into the different architectural periods that coexist throughout Reims.

That mixture became increasingly noticeable as we continued walking. Medieval landmarks stand alongside buildings constructed after the devastation of World War I. Architects rebuilding Reims embraced several contemporary styles, with Art Deco leaving a particularly distinctive mark.

We were about to stumble across one of its finest examples.

An Art Deco Surprise

While walking through central Reims, the Bibliothèque Carnegie caught our attention before we knew much about it. Its magnificent Art Deco exterior stood out and made us curious about what was inside. Unfortunately, we arrived during its lunchtime closure. Rather than moving on, we decided it warranted a return later that afternoon.

A stone library building in Reims with “BIBLIOTHEQUE” inscribed above the entrance, two lamps, and steps leading up to doors. Shrubs and trees are on either side, with a black metal fence and gate in front. — Bibliothèque Carnegie Art Deco Façade

Rebuilding Reims After the War

The library’s story is closely connected to the devastation Reims suffered during World War I. After the war, the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace contributed $200,000 toward constructing a new library. Architect Max Sainsaulieu designed the building, which opened in 1928.

A person wearing a white shirt, black shorts, and white sneakers stands on stone steps outside a large building with tall doors and columns. A sign reads “Pursuit of Happiness.” The person holds a brown paper bag.

A mosaic tile floor features geometric patterns, a central red circle, wavy red and blue lines, and zigzag borders, all in cream, yellow, brown, and dark blue tones. The design is symmetrical and intricate.

Its construction coincided with the enormous rebuilding of Reims. This helps explain why Art Deco appears throughout a city better known for Gothic architecture and Champagne.

Inside the Bibliothèque Carnegie

When we returned later, we entered free of charge. The interior made us glad we had come back.

Geometric patterns, decorative ironwork, mosaics, marble, and stained glass fill the building with Art Deco details. The entrance hall is particularly striking, with its mosaic decoration and elaborate lighting. In the reading room, a large stained-glass ceiling introduces another impressive decorative element.

Art Deco lobby with marble floors, circular patterned walls, a geometric glass chandelier, wooden reception desk, and seating around a small round table. Light streams from a colorful stained-glass ceiling. — Main Lobby

A mosaic artwork depicts a muscular, shirtless figure with an outstretched arm and a shield, standing in front of a sunburst design with green, brown, and beige tones. — Main Lobby

The Bibliothèque Carnegie became one of the day’s unexpected discoveries. We hadn’t gone looking for an Art Deco landmark. We simply saw an intriguing building and wanted to know what was inside.

Lunch in the Heart of Reims

By lunchtime, we had made our way to Place Drouet d’Erlon, one of the liveliest areas in central Reims. The broad pedestrian-friendly avenue is lined with cafés, brasseries, restaurants, shops, and casual places to eat. In the evening, the area becomes especially busy as locals and visitors gather for drinks and dinner.

A tree-lined plaza in Reims with outdoor café seating surrounds a tall monument topped by a golden-winged statue under a clear blue sky. — Place Drouet d’Erlon

This isn’t a place we would single out for a particular monument or historic building. Its appeal comes from the activity around it. After spending the morning immersed in French history, it was nice to encounter this more everyday side of Reims.

A Casual Lunch at Le Café Feuillette

We stopped for lunch at Le Café Feuillette, choosing something casual rather than making the meal an event. We ordered a jambon-Comté sandwich and a chicken bulgur salad. For dessert, we shared a delicious Cœur Coulant Pistache, the highlight of our lunch.

A cozy bakery counter with pastries, coffee machines, and a menu above. People are behind the counter. A “Sans de la file” sign is in front. There’s a staircase and a customer sitting to the right. — Le Café Feuillette

A display of assorted pastries, including chocolate eclairs, strawberry tarts, cakes, and cream-topped buns, arranged neatly on a bakery shelf. — Le Café Feuillette

Afterward, we left the busy center and set out for another side of Reims. About a 25-minute walk from the cathedral area brought us to the Basilique Saint-Remi.

The Other Great Church of Reims

Notre-Dame may command most of the attention, but Saint-Remi tells another essential part of the city’s history. The basilica developed around the former Abbey of Saint-Remi and the tomb of Saint Remi.

A large Basilica in Reims, with two tall towers, pointed arches, and a rose window stands under a clear blue sky. The foreground shows empty stone steps and a brick plaza. — Basilica of Saint Remi

Interior of a grand cathedral with vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows, stone columns, and an ornate altar at the center. Red chairs and decorative sculptures line the sides. — High Altar and 12th-Century Gothic Stained-Glass Windows

He was the bishop traditionally credited with baptizing Clovis around the year 500. That event helped establish the connection between Reims and the French monarchy that lasted for centuries.

From Romanesque to Gothic

The former abbey church is one of the great examples of medieval architecture in Reims. Romanesque elements remain prominent, while later changes introduced Gothic features. The combination gives Saint-Remi a very different character from Notre-Dame.

Interior of a historic stone cathedral with tall arches, vaulted ceilings, and rows of wooden chairs. Warm light highlights the architecture and intricate stonework. — Romanesque Arches Along the Nave

A row of stone statues and ornate columns inside a grand cathedral, with arched ceilings and colorful stained glass windows above, and decorative golden stands in the foreground. — Romanesque Arches Along the Nave

The cathedral overwhelms with height, sculpture, and elaborate decoration. Saint-Remi feels more restrained and contemplative. Its scale remains impressive, but the atmosphere is quieter. The basilica also suffered serious damage during World War I and required extensive restoration. Like Notre-Dame, admission was free during our visit.

Saint Remi and the Kings of France

The tomb of Saint Remi provides the historical focus of the basilica. His association with Clovis gave the abbey an important role in later French coronations. The coronation ceremonies began and ended at Saint-Remi. The abbey also safeguarded the Holy Ampulla containing the sacred oil traditionally used to anoint French kings.

A person walks through a grand, vaulted stone cathedral with tall columns, arched ceilings, intricate carvings, and large stained glass windows. — Early Gothic Architectural Style in the Apse

Visiting both churches on the same day made their differences much more apparent. Notre-Dame represents the grandeur and ceremony of royal France. Saint-Remi reaches further back to the origins of Reims as France’s coronation city.

Going Underground at Taittinger

Of course, a visit to Reims must include experiencing the product most closely associated with the city. Champagne houses are scattered throughout the area, with several offering tours and tastings. We chose Maison Taittinger and booked its “Instant Rosé” experience at the historic Saint-Nicaise site. Taittinger turned out to be much more than a place to sample Champagne.

White building with “Taittinger” written on the side, directional signs for cellar tours and parking, trees in the background, and a clear blue sky above. — Entrance at Taittinger Champagne House

Eighteen Meters Beneath Reims

Our guide led us down several levels beneath the building, and the temperature dropped noticeably as we descended. Eventually, we reached ancient chalk quarries about 18 meters below ground. The oldest sections are Gallo-Roman crayères, excavated nearly 2,000 years ago. Their constant temperature, darkness, and natural humidity provide ideal conditions for aging Champagne.

A dimly lit wine cellar tunnel with rows of wine bottles stacked on wooden racks against a stone wall, illuminated by a warm yellow light. — Aging Champagne at Maison Taittinger’s Cellar

There is another layer of history underground. The Abbey of Saint-Nicaise once stood above these cellars. Medieval monks used and expanded the underground spaces beneath their monastery. The abbey disappeared after the French Revolution, but portions of its underground world survived. The caves later provided shelter during World War I, when Reims endured heavy bombardment.

Today, Taittinger’s Saint-Nicaise cellars form part of the UNESCO-listed Champagne Hillsides, Houses and Cellars. We had now encountered a second UNESCO World Heritage property during our day in Reims.

Learning How Champagne Is Made

The setting alone would have made the tour worthwhile, but our guide added considerably more to the experience. As we moved through the cellars, she expertly explained how Champagne is produced and aged.

A warmly lit underground tunnel with bottles stacked on racks along the walls and a decorative wrought iron grate above the entrance.

A person in a yellow shirt and shorts stands in a wine cellar tunnel with racks of bottles on both sides, under warm lighting.

We learned about pressing, fermentation, blending, and the second fermentation that takes place inside the bottle. Aging is another crucial part of the process. Bottles spend extended periods underground, where the stable conditions allow the wine to develop.

Seeing bottles resting in these ancient passages made the process easier to understand. Champagne suddenly seemed less like a celebratory drink and more like the result of remarkable patience and precision.

A yellow-lit underground cave with racks of wine bottles and a circular emblem on the far wall, creating a warm, rustic atmosphere. — Perfect Temperature, Darkness and Humidity to Age Champagne

From Ancient Cellars to a Modern Tasting Room

Eventually, we climbed back to ground level and entered a completely different environment. Taittinger redesigned its Saint-Nicaise visitor spaces before reopening them in 2024. The original building retains its distinctive Art Deco form, connecting with the architecture we had noticed elsewhere in Reims.

A woman stands behind a bar, pouring champagne into glasses lined up on the counter. Bottles are displayed on shelves in the background. The setting appears modern and well-lit. — Taittinger’s Tasting Area

Inside, the atmosphere is contemporary and welcoming. Art, natural light, and modern design surround a large central bar and tasting area. After spending so much time in the cold underground cellars, the contrast was particularly striking.

Our Instant Rosé experience concluded with Taittinger Brut Réserve and Prestige Rosé. We weren’t rushed. We could relax in the comfortable surroundings and enjoy the space for a while. The central bar also allows visitors to order additional glasses of Champagne. Taittinger offers several other experiences, including options that pair Champagne with food.

Seven bottles of Taittinger champagne in different colors are lined up on a black shelf against a light, vertically striped background. — Taittinger Champagne Varieties

We had expected an interesting Champagne tasting. Instead, the tour connected many of the themes we had encountered throughout Reims. Ancient history, medieval monks, World War I, Art Deco, and Champagne all occupied the same remarkable site.

A City Worth More Time

A quiet city street in Reims, with ornate historic buildings, a few people walking on the sidewalk, and a clear blue sky above. — Experiencing a Mix of Architecture in Reims

After leaving Taittinger, we continued walking through Reims without a particular destination. This gave us time to enjoy the mix of architecture and everyday life around us. By late afternoon, we were already questioning our decision to visit for only one day.

An Unexpected Delay

Eventually, we returned to the station for what we expected would be an easy trip back to Paris. Instead, a power failure at Gare de l’Est brought Paris-bound trains to a standstill. Our departure kept getting pushed back, and the delay eventually stretched to four hours.

Stone facade of the historic Reims train station with large arched entrances, French flags, and “SNCF” sign above the door. Two people stand outside on a sunny day. — 18th-Century Neoclassical Façade of Reims Train Station

Once it became clear we weren’t leaving anytime soon, I walked back to Place Drouet d’Erlon. I picked up poke bowls for dinner and returned to the station. Thankfully, our train remained at the platform with the air conditioning running. We ate dinner onboard and waited for service to resume.

There was some irony in the situation. We had spent the afternoon wishing we had allowed ourselves more time in Reims. Suddenly, we had four additional hours, although not quite in the way we had imagined. Eventually, power was restored and our train departed for Paris. The unexpected delay made for a much longer day, but it did little to change our enthusiasm for Reims.

A bright yellow tram travels along a grassy track beside elegant, historic Reims buildings under a clear blue sky, with trees lining the quiet street. — Trams Glide Across a Lush Green Lawn Along Cours Jean-Baptiste Langlet

A café named “En Aparthe Reims” with a yellow facade, covered in vibrant flowers and green vines. Green tables and chairs are set outside on the sidewalk under the decorative floral display. — Trams Glide Across a Lush Green Lawn Along Cours Jean-Baptiste Langlet

Reims certainly works as an easy day trip from Paris, but we would stay for a couple of nights. We would slow down, enjoy an evening in the city, and leave more time for unexpected discoveries. Reims may be less than an hour from Paris by TGV, but that doesn’t mean it should be experienced in a hurry. Sometimes it is better to stay the night and have another glass of Champagne.

From Paris to Reims by TGV