The Hill Country in Sri Lanka

We really loved our time spent in Sri Lanka’s Hill Country.  After all, the country’s lush, green, manicured tea plantations and its majestic, magnificent mountains are spectacular and memorable.  And given the altitudes, the climate is a lot cooler than other more tropical regions.

We spent 5 unforgettable days in this beautiful area.  It was one of the highpoints of our trip.  We are certain that it will be a highlight for you too.  With this in mind, here is our list of highlights of the Hill Country.

Riding the Train Into The Hill Country

I’m sure you have seen photos or videos of people sticking their heads (or almost full bodies) out of the windows and doors of blue trains rolling through the Hill Country.  Everyone seems to do it and for good reason.  It’s fun and memorable.  The images are unforgettable.  The scenery is magnificent, with gorgeous green tea plantations, rice fields, and majestic mountains.   So, hop on the train with the other tourists, and enjoy several hours of a very memorable experience.

The Train Ride

We rode the train twice in the Hill Country.  Our first train ride was from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya (the Nanu Oya train station), for about 4 hours.  We were only able to purchase 1^st class tickets because the 2^nd class was sold out.  But 2^nd class is where you want to be.  Because it is in high demand, reserved seats sell out quickly.  First class is air conditioned.  While that sounds luxurious, the windows remain shut.  As a result, you can’t open them to take photos and stick your head out.

During the second half of that train ride, we went to the 2^nd class cabin.  By then, it had thinned out, so we were able to enjoy the full “window” experience.  It was worth it.  We also spent some time between the cars where the doors are open, and you can hang out of them.  It’s a thrill.

Our second train ride was from Nuwara Eliya to Ella.  That ride was very similar to the first train ride, although the section from Nanu Oya to Haputale has some off-the-charts scenery.  That portion is considered to be the most scenic part of the entire Kandy to Ella journey.  For us, however, it was an unnecessary train trip because our driver, who we hired for most of our tour, drove from Nuwara Eliya to Ella.  He took our luggage and met us at the Ella train station.

Getting Train Tickets

Train tickets are very cheap and the difference between first class, second class and third class is only about Rs200 – $1 USD.  (By the way, we took the train from Colombo to Anuradapura in third class and its wasn’t bad at all.)  You can purchase an unreserved ticket, which is even cheaper, but you are not guaranteed a seat if you do.  If you can’t find a seat, you can always sit by the door and let your feet dangle outside.

We purchased our reserved tickets in advance at the train station in Jaffna.  We found the process of purchasing tickets fairly straight forward, although we have heard that it can be confusing for some.  Check out our Sri Lanka blog with additional information about taking a train and getting a ticket.

In all, take the train for some, or all, of the trip from Kandy to Ella.  It is the quintessential Sri Lanka Hill Country experience.  Trust us!  You will be in for a treat.

Visiting Nuwara Eliya

Nuwara Eliya’s nickname is “Little England”.  After visiting it, we understand why.  It is indeed an accurate description.  The town is a lovely, interesting and curious mix of Sri Lankan and British culture.  Everywhere you walk, there are signs of British influence. For instance, there is the gorgeous Victoria Park, with its manicured lawns, flower beds and playgrounds.  It makes for a scenic and relaxing stroll. The entry cost to Victoria Park is Rs300 ($1.50 USD)

There are the various clubs – the Nuwara Golf Club, the Royal Turf Club – reminders that the British once occupied this tropical country.  There are the charming colonial Tudor-style buildings, such as the old post office, Cargills Supermarket, the Clock Tower, the police superintendent’s office and others, nestled in the center of the town.

And, of course, there is the large sitting Buddha as a reminder of the local religion. All these elements create a town that is unique, tranquil, appealing and full of character.  No matter how you spend your time there, (just strolling around is fun), you will be glad you were there.  Nuwara Eliya is a special place in the Hill Country and not to be missed.

Staying at The Hill Club

There are several distinctive places to stay in Nuwara Eliya such as the Grand Hotel, Heidi’s Home, Ferncliff, St. Andrew’s Hotel, etc.  For an incredibly unique and memorable visit, however, you must stay at The Hill Club.  It is unforgettable and fun.

Established in 1876 as a British gentlemen’s hunting club, The Hill Club is authentic and charming.  It still is used as a club.  It has, however, opened its doors (and 39 guest rooms and dining facilities) to outsiders.  Located on 26 beautifully manicured acres of lush green lawns and landscaping, The Hill Club is centrally located and only a short walk into town.  The British built the club in the current Tudor-style structure in the 1930s.  The place is steeped in colonial history.

Sticking to Tradition

Dining at The Hill Club was quite an experience.  The Hill Club serves dinner in its formal dining room.  The dress code requires a jacket and tie for men.  Because we travelled with neither a jacket nor a tie, the Club provided us with its selection of warn (but clean) men’s jackets and ties.  We didn’t mind how we looked in them as we really enjoyed the dining experience.

Service was very formal and polite.  The prefix menu is western cuisine, with a selection of 2 or 3 items for each course.  The food was well prepared and delicious.  After dinner, the Club served tea and drinks while we sat in club chairs in front of a fireplace. In addition, The Hill Club serves a full English breakfast in its breakfast room every morning.  Again, service was formal and polite.  The food was delicious.

A Bygone Era

Several moments at The Hill Club truly epitomized our stay there.  At 9AM sharp every morning, the entire staff proceeds to the front lawn to watch the raising of the Sri Lankan flag and the playing of its national anthem.  (You should join them – we did.)  As part of its turndown service, the staff leaves a hot water bottle under your sheets. (Who does that anymore?)  Everywhere there are photos of a young, middle-aged, and elderly Queen Elizabeth (some with Prince Phillip).

The place is filled with memorabilia – an old telephone switchboard, cutlery used by Queen Elizabeth in 1954, women’s entrance signs, plaques, awards, membership rosters – – the items go on and on.  In all, it was as close to experiencing a long-lost era as one can get.  The head concierge will give you a tour upon your check-in and will provide you with the history of the Club.

The Hill Club is not for everyone.  It is a remnant of a bygone era steeped in discrimination, elitism and imperialism.  The place is slightly worn (but well maintained), like a comfortable leather club chair.  But for us, it was unique and fun.  The service was impeccable and friendly.  The staff was welcoming and very attentive.  And, the accommodations were very comfortable.

British High Tea

If you can’t stay overnight, check out The Hill Club’s lovely afternoon tea.  If the weather is nice, The Hill Club serves high tea on its beautiful front lawn, surrounded by magnificently landscaped gardens.  Another great option for high tea is the Grand Hotel, located just down the street from The Hill Club.

Exploring The Hill Country Tea Plantations

Sri Lanka is famous for tea and it is a huge part of Sri Lanka’s economy.  Sri Lankans drink a lot of tea and they talk a lot about it.  It’s a tea culture.  Tea is everywhere.  And, in the Hill Country, you are in the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country.

No matter where you go in the Hill Country, you will see tea plantations with their rich green bushes dotted on terraced, manicured mountainsides.  They are breathtaking.  You’ll want to take a million photos.

To appreciate fully Sri Lanka’s tea culture, you must visit tea plantations and factories.  We visited several.  Each one was completely different even though they follow similar steps.

Here are the three tea producers that we visited:

Pedro Tea Estate

Pedro Tea Estate is just 15 minutes outside of Nuwara Eliya.  Its well organized and interesting tours lasted around 20 minutes.  Its visitor’s center offers tea tastings and a tea shop.

Built in 1885, Pedro Tea Estate is filled with machines from the 19^th century.  Because it operates its tea manufacturing at night, you won’t actually see tea being made.  (It does this to avoid exposing the tea to sunlight.)  Nonetheless, you’ll get a good sense of Sri Lankan tea production.  The factory is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. but is closed to visitors between 12.30PM and 2PM.  Photography within the factory premises is not permitted.

The cost for the tour is Rs350 ($1.75 USD).  You can also do a tea tasting for Rs1000 ($5 USD).  Tip: One tea tasting is good for two to share.  They give you six different types of tea with plenty to drink in each cup.

Dambatenne Tea Factory

Dambatenne Tea Factory is in Haputale, closer to Ella.  Sir Thomas Lipton built it in 1890.  It is a much larger, more industrial factory, where conditions are far from ideal.  The tour, which takes 30 minutes, is very informative.  Unlike Pedro Tea Estate, Dambatenne produces tea during the day so you will be able to see their employees in the production line.  The images and smells make quite an impression.

This is a great stop after you have worked your way up the beautiful mountain plantation to see Sir Lipton’s Seat. (more on this below) The factory is open daily from 8AM to 6PM, and tours run every 30 minutes.  Our guide had a unique sense of humor (some would say bossy) but we found him to be funny and instructive.  Photography within the factory premises is not permitted.  The tour costs Rs1000 ($5 USD).

Amba Estate

Amba Estate is an organic farm, guest house and social enterprise.  Making artisanal tea is among its many operations.  It hand-picks and rolls all its teas.  It’s a very purposeful, caring process.  Amba sells its teas in some of the world’s most prestigious stores and serves it in some of the world’s most discerning restaurants.

Tea manufacturing at Amba is completely different from that of Pedro Tea Estate and Dambatenne.  Amba offers free tours of its organic farm and artisanal tea making process every day at 11AM.  After the tour, you can experience a tea tasting.  It costs Rs900 ($4.50 USD).

You can tour other tea factories too.  Uva Halpewatte, Blue Field, Glenloch, Damro and others offer tours.  Regardless of which tour you take, you are in for an interesting and engaging time.

Admiring the Hill Country Waterfalls

Sri Lanka is chock full of stunning waterfalls (382 recorded).  You should try to visit a few of them.  Three gorgeous ones are in the Hill Country.

St. Clair’s Falls

St. Clair’s Falls is called the “Little Niagara of Sri Lanka” and is one of the widest in Sri Lanka.  It runs through the St. Clair Tea Estate, from where the waterfall gets its name.  There is a lookout point right off the A7 highway (Hatton-Nuwara Eliya Road).  In addition, there are steps and a trail next to the lookout point that allows you to descend and get closer to the falls.

Devon Falls

You can also see Devon Falls from the A7 highway, in the Dimbula area.  Also known as “Veil of the Valley”, it is the 19^th highest waterfall in Sri Lanka.  It is a beautifully tiered cascade.  The name comes from an English coffee planter called Devon, whose plantation surrounded the waterfall.  The best time to visit is between December and March, when the water flow is the strongest.  Both waterfalls are easy to get to and are very photogenic.

Ravana Falls

The stunning Ravana Falls is situated just 10 minutes outside Ella.  This is the most popular waterfall in the Hill Country, nestled within the Ravana Ella Wildlife Sanctuary.  It is a 3-tier waterfall cascading down a rocky mountain and forming pools along the way.   Its overall height is approximately 82 feet (25m).  There is a viewing platform off the main road and steps that lead visitors to the top of the lower tier waterfall.  Visitors are allowed to bathe in the lower tier pool.  A tuk-tuk ride from Ella will cost Rs300-500 ($1.50-2.50 USD) each way.

Enjoying Our Guest House Near Ella

Ella was our second destination in the Hill Country.  After spending a few days in Nuwara Eliya, we took another scenic train ride towards Ella.  (Instead going all the way to Ella, we got off at Heel Oya, one stop before Ella, as it was a closer stop to our guesthouse.)  Ella town is known for being a popular, relatively attractive, and centrally located stop on a hiker’s tour of Sri Lanka.  It has a lot of tourists, including backpackers who come climb Adam’s Peak.

Note that if you take the train ride from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya, you will find the ride from Nuwara Eliya to Ella to be very similar in landscape.  Had we known that we would have just traveled with our driver for this leg of the trip.  Instead, we sent him with our luggage and had him pick us up at Heel Oya.  Trains always run considerably late and take much longer than traveling by car.

A Great Find

Eagle Rock Estate was our beautiful guest house just outside of Ella.  As luck would have it, we have friends who own the lovely Amba Estate in the mountains just outside of Ella.  Amba is an organic farm, guest-house and social enterprise in the Uva Highlands.  Simon, Amba’s proprietor, suggested that instead of staying in Ella town, we should stay at Amba.  Simon wisely recommended that because the mountains just outside of the town of Ella are spectacular.  Staying there would be a more memorable, relaxing experience than being in town.  Simon was right. However, since we needed accommodations for 4 nights, we would have to switch rooms if we stayed at Amba.  So, Simon suggested that we stay at the Eagle Rock Estate, just up the street from Amba.

Eagle Rock Estate was one of our favorite places to stay in Sri Lanka.  The house is lovely, the grounds are gorgeous, and the view is spectacular.  Warm and welcoming, our host Tim and his staff (especially Aruna) left no detail unturned.  All our meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) were outstanding and some of the best we had in Sri Lanka.  The larger Amba Estate is only a 5-minute walk from Eagle Rock and Amba’s activities (tea tours, lectures, etc.) are available to Eagle Rock guests. 

We really loved our stay at Eagle Rock Estate, and we hope to return someday soon.  It’s a very special place.

Driving to Lipton Seat

Scottish businessman Sir Thomas Lipton moved to Sri Lanka in 1890.  He then met James Taylor and together, introduced tea growing to Sri Lanka’s Hill Country.  Legend has it that Sir Lipton would sit at a beautiful spot, at the plantation hilltop, to view his vast estate.

Today, this location is deservedly one of the most popular attractions in Sri Lanka. The view is spectacular.  It is best to arrive just before the sun rises because as the day goes on, the mist and fog settle in.

We got a kick out of the statute of Sir Lipton sitting in perpetuity on the bench overseeing his estate.  There is even a place to purchase breakfast, snacks and tea to enjoy as you sit next to Sir Lipton.

Also impressive is the beautiful ride to the top of the peak, which you can take either by car or tuk-tuk.  The cost for us to take a tuk-tuk to the top was Rs2,000 ($10 USD).  A bus is also available from the area outside the Dambatenne Tea Factory.  However, you will need to walk up the mountain from the bus stop or take a tuk-tuk from that point.  Winding through the trails of lush green manicured tea plants and seeing the workers filling up their bags with young tea leaves is unforgettable. 

Lipton Seat is about a 75-minute drive from Ella.  There is a fee of Rs500 ($2.50 USD) to enter the viewpoint. 

Hanging Out at Nine Arch Bridge

Built in 1921, the Nine Arch Bridge is one of the most photographed images in Sri Lanka.  For good reason.  Constructed entirely of cement and stone, the arch is a remarkable feat of Sri Lankan engineering.  It is 300 feet long, 25 feet wide and 80 – 100 feet tall.  The bridge connects a railway between two mountains.  Usually, trains pass over it 5 times a day.  (During our visit, we did not see the train.  I’m sure it is a very cool sight.)

The tall arches, lush green mountainside and curve of the bridge are impressive indeed and lend themselves to some very dramatic photographs.  Undoubtedly, there will be a lot of fellow admirers at the bridge.  Nonetheless, the beauty of the site and the joy emanating from the people admiring it should make for a highly entertaining visit.

The bridge is located between the Ella and Demodara railway stations.  It is an hour walk from Ella.  It is easiest to take a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride from Ella for about Rs500 – 1000 ($2.50 – 5.00 USD).  The tuk-tuk drops you off on a nearby road where you will need to climb down steps on the mountainside.  It takes about 10 minutes to walk along the railway tracks until reaching the bridge.  There is no entry fee and you can hang out there as long as you’d like.

Participating in the Activities at Amba Estate

Although we did not stay at Amba Estate, our lovely guesthouse (Eagle Rock Estate) was just a 5-minute walk to it.  In addition to its comfortable lodgings, Amba is an organic farm and product making operation.  It offers exciting hikes and beautiful views.  Amba houses a café where you can enjoy its homemade offerings and a shop where you can buy its artisanal teas, coffees, spices, jams, chutneys, and handicrafts. 

Amba provides a tour of its facilities daily at 11AM or you can take a self-guided tour daily from 10AM to 4PM, except Sundays.  Tours of its farm and tea production are free and tea tasting after the tour costs Rs900 ($4.50 USD).  You can arrange for private tours too.  In addition, Amba offers classes in cooking, tea making and local handicrafts.  I really loved watching a local man demonstrate how cinnamon is made. 

Amba Estate is unique and exceptional.  Visiting it is educational, entertaining and highly noteworthy. 

Taking a Hike in The Hill Country

The mountains in the Hill Country are spectacular.  The countless shades of green, the lush wild vegetation and the impeccably manicured tea plantations create an environment that begs to be explored.  Unquestionably, the best way to experience it is by foot. 

Hikes around Ella are world famous.  Little Adam’s Peak, Ella Rock, Alagalla Mountain, Horton’s Plains (to see World’s End) and Knuckles Range are just a few of the wonderful places in the Hill Country to trek. 

In fact, UNESCO designated Sri Lanka’s central mountains, including Horton Plains, Knuckles Conservation Forrest and Peak Wilderness Protected Area, as a world heritage site.  The region is considered a “super biodiversity hotspot”.  Most places are easy to hike alone, especially on the more popular trails where you’ll run into other hikers.

Little Adam’s Peak

We chose to hike Little Adam’s Peak, which is in Ella.  Named after the more challenging Adam’s Peak, Little Adam’s Peak has a similar shape and is a little further east.  The hike is straight forward, well-marked and not especially strenuous.  The entire hike takes about 2 hours, depending on how much time you decide to stay at the top.  The scenery is gorgeous, with spectacular views of surrounding mountains.  The path to the summit takes you through magnificent tea plantations.  It was also interesting to see the women picking tea leaves throughout the plantations during our hike.

At the top of the mountain is a lovely white Buddha sitting and enjoying the spectacular views, along with the many tourists.  Close to the top is a zipline operator offering a thrilling way to view the mountain.  We took a pass on ziplining, although it looked electrifying and was fun to watch.  On the way down, we passed several vendors selling drinks and snacks.  We bought some fresh coconut water (still in their King Coconut shells) from a very determined and charming kid.  The best time for the hike is either early in the morning or in the late afternoon.  This is a good way to avoid tons of visitors and the heat.  There is no cost to hike Little Adam’s Peak.

Amba Estate Trails

We also hiked around Amba Estate and our guest house.  A lovely, somewhat challenging trek led us through tea plantations and lush greenery.  Eventually, we found semi-hidden stone steps that descended to a waterfall and a quiet river with pools of water.  We were alone except for the monkeys along the riverside, which were playing in the water and watching our every move.

Be certain to take advantage of the beautiful mountains in the Hill Country.  Ask around for places to hike.  You can’t go wrong anywhere you go.  You’ll be rewarded with unforgettable views and gorgeous scenery.

Being Enamored by The Hill Country

In sum, these are just some of the highlights from our time in the Hill Country.  We didn’t have time to do everything that we wanted to do.  Nonetheless, we had a spectacular time there.  The Hill Country offers so much to see and do.  Best yet, just being in the Hill Country and enjoying its stunning scenery is the best highlight of all.

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