Syros is the capital of the Cyclades, a group of about 220 Greek islands in the Aegean Sea, located southeast of Greece’s mainland. It is a year-round working island with fewer visitors than popular islands like Mykonos. Syros is an ideal place for those who want to visit and experience a Greed Island without being overrun by tourists. That’s the reason it peaked our interest.
Syros does not have the dreamy blue and white architecture that you expect to see on a Greek Island. Nonetheless, it is beautiful and charming. Indeed, the island is known for its colorful mansions, Neoclassical architecture, and imposing churches. The island has a long history of occupiers and raiders and has a strong presence of both the Catholic and Greek Orthodox Churches. This has helped to make the island rich in history and character.
First Impressions
Ermoupoli, the island’s thriving stately capital, was an important administrative and cultural center in Greece in the 1800’s. Upon our arrival, we felt like we were disembarking into a very cosmopolitan destination with a touch of “Old Europe”. The city once housed the country’s main port; today, although not as important as it once were, it still has a bustling commercial shipyard. A stroll through its downtown area will quickly lead you to architectural gems such as the City Hall, the Apollo Theater, and the Main Library, all designed by German and Italian architects. The buildings around the flagstone covered main piazza certainly reflect an earlier era of prosperity.
The beaches in Syros are not as spectacular as others in the Cyclades. This is perhaps a reason the island doesn’t attract as many visitors. Most tourists tend to be European, allured by the island’s cultural scene which include art festivals hosted throughout the year, and a great cuisine.
Getting to Syros
We booked tickets on the Fast Ferries Thunder from the port of Piraeus in Athens to Syros. The boat was spacious and beautifully designed, with comfortable seats and many snack bars, carrying passengers and vehicles. The ferry, which stops along the way, takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes to reach Ermoupoli. Tickets cost €56 and a VIP/Business Class upgrade is available for an additional €20. Check out ferryhopper for tickets.
While some people prefer to stay in Ermoupoli for a more urban-like experience, we opted to stay in a quieter and more secluded part of Syros. So, upon our arrival, we hopped into a taxi and headed to Galissas Beach, on the opposite side of the island. Keep in mind that Syros is a relatively small island, and most villages are not far to reach. Galissas Beach is only 4 miles away from Ermoupoli, on the west coast. Our taxi ride cost us €14.
Our Lodging and Transportation
We stayed at the Benois Hotel, a family-run boutique hotel located directly across the street from Galissas Beach. The hotel had charming rooms, a beautiful restaurant, and an inviting pool. Their outdoor lounge was a perfect spot for sunset drinks. The staff was great and went out of their way to ensure we enjoyed our stay. The owner, an unassuming sweet lady, was in the kitchen in the mornings preparing breakfast and her daughter ran the front of the house.
We decided to rent a car since that was the best way to explore the island without wasting a lot of time. We rented a small car from Alpha Rent-a-Car which was just down the street from the hotel. Even though we picked up the car in Galissas, we were able to drive to the port in the morning of our departure, with our luggage, and leave the car at the port parking lot.
The roads in Syros can be steep with sharp turns, following the mountainous terrain of the island. Be careful when driving on dirt roads to reach some beaches. We ended up getting a flat tire with a damaged side wall. Because the tire could not be repaired, we were charged for the cost of a new tire.
Our hotel location was convenient, making it easy to walk to local restaurants and Galissas Beach. We typically drove to different beaches during the day, so we liked being able to walk to nearby restaurants for dinner.
Our Experience in Syros
Day 1
Late Lunch
We were starving when we checked into our hotel in the early afternoon; so, we decided to eat lunch at aVentoura. This lovely restaurant is located right on Galissas Beach, with a delightful open dining area where you can enjoy the sea breeze and a great view of the beach. Everything sounded great on the menu. We started with crusty bread and the Syros Parsley Dip. That was followed by a freshly prepared Greek Salad, a Roasted Stuffed Pepper and Tomato meticulously filled with rice and beef, and a fragrant Grilled Mackerel marinated in a sauce of sun-dried oranges. And we did not regret ordering Portocalopita for dessert – a heavenly orange phyllo pie. Everything was delicious.
The Beach
Galissas Beach turned out to be a great spot in which to spend the afternoon. The beach is on a small bay with calm waters, making it ideal for an afternoon soak. There are plenty of chairs and umbrellas for rent. Toilet and a changing kiosk are available at the beach. A lifeguard watches over the beach goers.
Feeling a bit rested in the late afternoon, we decided to go on a scenic hike to the church of Agia Pakou, atop of the hill at the southern end of the beach. You take stairs for part of the hike up a steep hill. Then the path turns into an uneven rugged terrain as you approach the upper area. On top is a small, charming church with a magnificent view of Galissas Beach and the surrounding area. Sunset is the best time of the day for this hike. If you feel a bit more adventurous, Armeos Nudist Beach is just on the opposite side of the hill.
A Homemade Dinner
After enjoying sunset drinks at the Benois Hotel, we headed to Taverna Savvas for dinner. The restaurant has a great ambiance and specializes in homemade Greek dishes. We got a kick out of their menu design, which looks like alphabet books used to teach generations of young kids. We started with Grilled Calamari, which melted in our mouths, along with a refreshing typical salad of Cooked Garden Greens (Horta). The Fried Zucchini Balls were light and fluffy and served with a delicious yogurt sauce. For the mains we had a perfect Braised Pork with Fennel and Mashed Potatoes – a local specialty, and an exquisite Grilled Octopus in a savory broth. Their decadent version of Portocalopita, topped with ice cream and chocolate sauce, rounded out our dining experience.
Day 2
Exploring the Capital
After a nice big breakfast at the hotel, we decided to explore Ermoupoli, with its aristocratic buildings, and Ano Syros, a bastion of the Catholic Church. We parked near the port in Ermoupoli and walked through the narrow streets to enjoy its classic urban architecture. Our first stop was at the Assumption of the Virgin Church, a stunning Greek Orthodox church that has an El Greco icon. We then wandered to Miaouli Square for a view of the ornate Town Hall. Continuing down the street, we came across the restored Apollo Theater, a miniature replica of Milan’s La Scala.
The Cycladic Hill of Syros
Ano Syros (Upper Syros as it translates), a small Cycladic village perched on top of a steep hill high above Ermoupoli, was next on our itinerary. Established by the Venetians in the 13th century, the village is laid out in a weave of narrow cobblestone alleys. The Catholic Cathedral of San Georgio is the most visible landmark at the highest point of the village. The panoramic view of Ermoupoli and surrounding islands from this point is magical. That alone is worth the visit. The village main “street” has vibrant shops, quaint tavernas, and cafés. We loved to stroll through the winding alleyways and take in the Venetian charm of the white-washed and colorful architecture.
Beach Time in Kini
We headed to Kini Beach, located on the west coast of Syros and 9 km from Ermoupoli. (5 km from Galissas Beach) We were greeted by the Panagia Gorgona Memorial as we arrived at the beachfront. This is a beachside fountain with a bronze sculpture of the Virgin Mary as a mermaid holding onto a drowned sailor. Besides the memorial, restaurants line both sides of the street that runs along the beach. The beach has a white sandy strip lined with chairs and umbrellas mostly maintained by the restaurants. The crystal-clear water is inviting but not as calm as other beaches.
Amid all options, we selected Mageiro Storias as our lunch destination – their tables are set right on the sand. We had a lucious Greek salad, blanched green beans with olive oil and lemon, lightly fried zucchini, calamari and a refreshingly cold Mythos beer. Bugatsa, a phyllo pastry with custard, was served as a complimentary dessert. It was a fitting midday meal at the beach. Afterwards, we moved to their chaises and umbrellas to chill and enjoy the rest of the afternoon.
Checking Out Delfini
On the way back to our hotel we decided to stop by Delfini Beach. Even though Delfini was in the opposite direction, it was a short 2.5 km drive from Kini. This was a beautiful and tranquil beach, perfect for relaxing and recharging away from busy popular spots. The north end of the beach is organized with a taverna, sunbeds and umbrellas. There was hardly anyone at the beach when we arrived. Even though we didn’t venture that way, we were told that nudists go the southern end of the beach.
Dinner at a Local Taverna
Even though we loved chilling at the beach, we were a bit drained from staying in the sun most of the day. So for dinner, we decided to stay nearby and return to aVentoura. The dinner menu had offerings not available at lunch, allowing us to try new dishes. We started with a crispy mixed green salad with Syros dried tomatoes and San Michaelides cheese, and the grilled cheese trilogy – Halumi, Vetouli and Talagani. Our entrées included a succulent grilled sword fish with capers and lemon sauce, and a creative deconstructed tuna pastitsio. We finished the meal with a delicious orange phyllo cake and vanilla ice cream. Our second visit here turned out to be an excellent decision.
Day 3
Our Favorite Beach in Syros
We were told not to miss Agathopes Beach, in the southwestern part of Syros, and it turned out to be our favorite beach. This is a beautiful sandy beach with shallow clear blue waters, with all the comforts one needs at the beach plus drinks and good food. However, expect to be surrounded by a lot of people since this is one of the most popular beaches on the island. And parking is hard to find if you don’t arrive by late morning. We rented two chairs and an umbrella from the De La Gracia Beach Bar for €25. Part of our memorable beach day was sipping on Ouzo and nibbling on cucumbers, anchovies and olives as we lounged seaside. The beach had an incredible vibe and made it for a perfect last day on the island.
For a more upscale experience on Agathopes Beach, check out ONO at the north end. They offer cushy sunbeds and knitted oversized umbrellas, while serving a sophisticated version of Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. There is a full bar and a DJ spinning music throughout the day. You can even sign up for a massage while you chill at the beach.
The Final Dinner in Syros
After our daily sunset drinks, we decided to try the restaurant at our hotel. We typically avoid hotel restaurants, but the Benois Hotel turned out to be an exception. It had a great modern Greek ambiance, an interesting menu, and a delightful staff. We started with the amazing Aubergine Iman Baylis, their version of a stuffed eggplant. The Moussaka was unique, delicious, and beautifully plated. And the Braised Lamb with Roasted Mashed Potatoes, delicately cooked en papillote, had wonderful flavor with accents from local Greek spices. A decadent Profiterole with a caramel-chocolate sauce satisfied our sweet tooth at the end of the meal. It was a great dining experience and a superb last dinner in Syros.
A Winner for the Books
Syros met our criteria for an island that was “off the beaten path” and free of massive tourism. We loved our visit to this tranquil island, its pristine beaches and excellent cuisine. A return visit is definitely in our future plans.
