Sukhothai, a gem nestled in the heart of Thailand, boasts a rooted history and cultural significance. Despite its importance, Sukhothai remains relatively undiscovered by the hordes of tourists who prefer more popular destinations. However, beneath its ruins and peaceful landscapes lies a treasure trove of marvels waiting to be uncovered. Serving as the capital of the first Kingdom of Siam, Sukhothai played a crucial role in the country’s history. It is where Thai art, architecture and language were born. The vast temple complexes, detailed Buddha sculptures, and tranquil environment provide travelers with an opportunity to immerse themselves in Thailand’s glorious past.
Sukhothai’s History
Ancient Sukhothai has a glorious heritage dating back to the 13th century. The city holds a significant place as the political and administrative center of the original Kingdom of Siam. It played an important role in shaping the country’s identity. During this era the distinctive “Sukhothai Style” of architecture and art emerged, establishing the basis for Thai aesthetics. Concurrently, Buddhism flourished, leading to the construction of monasteries that reflected the beauty and teachings of Lord Buddha in an idealized manner.
Revered as the Founding Father of the Thai Nation, King Ramkhamhaeng the Great spearheaded significant advancements. These included the invention of the Thai alphabet and the establishment of enduring principles in politics, monarchy, and religion. Additionally, the Sukhothai Kingdom pioneered innovations in hydraulic engineering, utilizing water for agricultural, economic, and ritual purposes, and defensive city moats. Today, the UNESCO-listed Sukhothai Historical Park stands as a testament to this illustrious past.
Following its conquest by the Ayutthaya Kingdom in 1438, Sukhothai gradually lost its prominence as the seat of power in Thailand. With the shift in political control, the city was eventually abandoned in the late 15th and early 16th century. While wooden structures vanished over the years, those constructed with brick and stone masonry covered with stucco endured. In the 1970s, the Thai government, in collaboration with UNESCO, initiated an ambitious restoration project aimed at preserving Sukhothai’s rich historical legacy. This endeavor culminated in the establishment of the Sukhothai Historic Park. The site spans an impressive 27 square miles and encompasses a myriad of ancient monuments representing the city’s historic glory.
Getting to Sukhothai
Getting to Sukhothai is not difficult. The quickest route typically is by air, primarily from Bangkok. If your journey commences from other cities, like Chiang Rai or Chiang Mai, you’ll probably need to connect through Bangkok. Upon arrival at Sukhothai Airport, located roughly 25 miles from the Old City, additional transportation is necessary. During our visit, we opted for an airport shuttle service, a convenient 45-minute ride with multiple drop-off points along the way. The fare, THB800 for three passengers, was cost-effective. The cost for solo travelers was THB300. Alternatively, you can travel there by bus. From Bangkok, the journey by bus takes 7-8 hours. Travelers departing from Chiang Mai can expect a 4-5-hour ride.
For those seeking an alternative mode of transportation, a train is available from both Bangkok and Chiang Mai, although it terminates at Phitsanulok. From there, travelers must arrange onward transportation, either by bus or taxi, for the remaining 1.5-hour journey to Sukhothai. Each mode of transportation presents its own unique experience, allowing travelers to tailor their journey to suit their budget and schedule.
Exploring Sukhothai
The best way to explore Sukhothai’s rich historical sites is by bicycle. Sukhothai Historic Park is subdivided into multiple zones: Central (within the Old City walls), Northern, Southern, Eastern, and Western. With its sprawling layout, navigating the park by foot, especially in the heat, can be daunting. Bicycles are ideal for traversing the expansive grounds. During our stay, we turned to Sukhothai Bicycle Tour for our bikes and guide. This locally owned and operated venture is run by the dynamic husband and wife duo, Jib and Miaow. Their personalized service began with the delivery of bicycles directly to our hotel, setting the stage for an immersive exploration of Sukhothai’s ancient wonders.
Dividing our itinerary over two days allowed us ample time to absorb the splendor of the historic park without feeling rushed. Miaow, our knowledgeable guide, orchestrated an efficient schedule that included the most significant monuments while providing insights into the local history and culture. Fluent in English, Miaow’s expertise added depth to our experience, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in Sukhothai’s captivating past. From majestic temple ruins to intricately carved Buddha statues, each stop on our tour unveiled a piece of Sukhothai’s storied heritage.
The historical day tours offered by the Sukhothai Bicycle Tour company cost THB1,000 per person for a group tour. However, if you choose to have a private tour like we did, they charge THB1,500 per person. There is a minimum of two people required for a private tour.
Renting Bikes in Sukhothai
Renting bikes in Sukhothai is easy, with options conveniently available at the entrance to the old city. Bikes of varying quality can be rented for fees ranging from THB30 to THB80. For those seeking a more leisurely exploration, another option is to rent a golf cart, with or without a driver, for THB300 per hour.
Best Things to Visit in Ancient Sukhothai
Embarking on our 2-day exploration of Sukhothai’s treasures, we followed a curated itinerary crafted by our guide. With over 190 temples and pagodas scattered across the area, Miaow selected the most significant sites to visit. We began our adventure with a 22km bike ride on the first day, beginning outside the old city walls in the Eastern Zone. From there, we ventured into the Northern Zone before concluding our day in the main Central Zone, which is the heart of the Sukhothai Historical Park. On the second day, our journey continued with a 25km circuit encompassing the Southern and Western Zones.
DAY 1 ITINERARY
Wat Chang Lom
Located in the Eastern Zone lies the captivating Wat Chang Lom. Dating back to the late 14th century, this revered site, known as the “Temple Surrounded by Elephants,” stands 1.5km east of the old city center. Its distinctive name originates from the 32 majestic elephant statues adorning the base of the main bell-shaped stupa. Unfortunately, many have suffered damage over time from both vandalism and weathering. However, the Thai Fine Arts Department has undertaken restoration efforts, ensuring that some of these statues retain their original splendor. Surrounding the stupa, remnants of a colonnade serve as echoes of the past, offering glimpses into the structure that sheltered worshippers from the scorching sun. Adjacent to the stupa, eroded foundations mark the footprint of what was once an assembly hall (viharn). Access to Wat Chang Lom remains free to the public.
Wat Phra Phai Luang
Ranking as the second most important temple in Sukhothai, Wat Phra Phai Luang is part of the Northern Zone. This revered site, dating back to the late 12th century or early 13th century, was apparently at the center of the original city. The complex predates the establishment of the Sukhothai Kingdom. Constructed during the reign of Khmer King Jayavarman VII, Wat Phra Phai Luang is among the oldest monuments within the historical park.
The temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu, but it was eventually converted into a Theravada Buddhist sanctuary, reflecting the dynamic religious and cultural shifts of the era. Over time, the site’s diverse structures evolved, showcasing a blend of architectural styles ranging from Khmer to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya. Encircled by a vast moat, the temple complex exudes an aura of grandeur, with the surviving north tower emerging as the focal architectural point. This tower is adorned with intricate stucco designs reminiscent of Khmer artistry. The entrance fee is THB100; the same ticket also gives access to Wat Si Chum.
Wat Si Chum
The Wat Si Chum temple is situated 800 meters west of Wat Phra Phai Luang in Sukhothai’s Northern Zone. The site is considered a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage. Renowned for its mondop, a square religious structure housing a magnificent Sukhothai-style Buddha image, the temple entices visitors with its allure. The sacred site, aptly named the “Temple of the Bodhi Tree,” dates to the 13th century. Despite the passage of time and the gradual decay of its original roof, the Buddha image remains a sight to behold. Its elegant features, including delicately tapered fingernails, embody the essence of the Sukhothai style.
Approaching Wat Si Chum, anticipation mounts as visitors catch their first glimpse of the monumental Buddha image through a slit opening in the mondop’s façade. Towering at 11 meters wide and 15 meters tall, the Buddha image, known as Phra Ajana, draws pilgrims and photographers alike to its hallowed presence. While a ‘secret’ stairway once granted access to the area behind the Buddha’s head, it now remains closed to the public. Engraved slabs that once adorned the stairway ceiling have been relocated to the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. Wat Si Chum continues to captivate visitors, earning its place as one of the most photographed sites in Sukhothai.
King Ramkhamhaeng Monument
Our exploration of Sukhothai’s Central Zone kicked off with the purchase of entrance tickets for THB100 each. Our first stop led us to the King Ramkhamhaeng Monument. The king reigned over the Sukhothai Kingdom from 1279 to 1298. Known for his impact on Thai culture, King Ramkhamhaeng is recognized for introducing the Thai alphabet in 1283. That original alphabet, an adaptation of Khmer scripts, remains largely unchanged today. His diplomatic skills also played a part in expanding the kingdom during a period of cultural and political growth. Built in 1971 at the center of the old city, this monument serves as an homage to King Ramkhamhaeng’s legacy and his vital contributions to Thailand.
Wat Mahathat
The Central Zone is home to Wat Mahathat, the royal sanctuary, which is the largest and most impressive temple complex in Sukhothai. Situated next to the Royal Palace, it holds a place of paramount importance in the history of the empire. Its name translates to “Temple of the Great Relic,” alluding to the revered relics enshrined within its sacred precincts. It was initially constructed in the 13th century under the patronage of Sri Indraditya, the first king of the Sukhothai Kingdom. However, Wat Mahathat underwent numerous expansions and renovations over several centuries, resulting in a diverse array of architectural styles within its sprawling complex. As a result, the intricate designs include Lanna, Singhalese, Sukhothai, and Mon Hariphunchai architectural elements.
Enclosed by brick walls and encompassed by a moat, Wat Mahathat boasts an impressive array of monuments. Among its many treasures are numerous chedis, each adorned in various architectural styles, a viharn (assembly hall) housing a large, seated Buddha image, and an ubosot. The complex also has mondops, or square-shaped structures, enshrining large images of standing Buddha statues. As visitors traverse the sacred grounds of Wat Mahathat, they are transported back to Sukhothai’s golden age of timeless beauty and grace. Costs to enter the Central Zone include entry tickets at THB100 per person and an additional THB10 per bicycle.
Wat Si Sawai
Wat Si Sawai (or Wat Sri Savaya), nestled in the southwest quadrant of Sukhothai’s Central Zone, is a relic of ancient Khmer architecture. Dating back to the late 12th century, this temple was originally constructed by the Khmer as a Hindu sanctuary dedicated to Shiva. However, it was converted into a Buddhist temple during the Sukhothai period, bearing witness to the cultural and religious shifts at the time. What sets Wat Si Sawai apart are its three striking prangs, tall tower-like spires adorned with intricate stucco carvings depicting mythological creatures.
The central prang, towering at 15 meters in height, is flanked by two slightly shorter counterparts. While the lower halves showcase the distinctive laterite masonry favored by the Khmer, the upper sections feature brickwork indicative of Sukhothai craftsmanship. This blend of construction lead some to believe that either the Khmer left the structure unfinished or that it was renovated during the Sukhothai period. The intricate stucco carvings adorning the prangs offer visitors a glimpse into Khmer and Sukhothai culture. Adjacent to the prangs, there are remnants of the southern viharn laterite pillars – a great spot for photos.
Wat Sa Si
The Wat Sa Si temple is on an island within the serene waters of a square pond in Sukhothai’s Central Zone. The late 14th century Buddhist temple is accessible by a wooden bridge. Comprising multiple chedis, a viharn, an ubosot, and a Sukhothai-style walking Buddha image, Wat Sa Si offers visitors a glimpse into Sukhothai’s religious and architectural heritage. Notably, the main chedi, with its Singhalese-style bell shape, serves as a symbol of the region’s historic cultural diversity. Meanwhile, visitors can visit the remnants of the viharn with its weathered base and ruined laterite pillars, positioned before the main chedi. At the temple’s rear, a magnificent, seated Buddha image exudes a sense of tranquility, inviting contemplation and reflection in the serene ambiance of Wat Sa Si.
Wat Tra Phang Thong
The Wat Tra Phang Thong complex is in the eastern side of the Central Zone. The site, situated on an island within a man-made lake, is accessible via a pedestrian bridge off the main road. At the heart of the complex stands a typical Sukhothai-style chedi, flanked by eight smaller ones. Among its prized possessions is a stone sculpture depicting a Buddha footprint, housed within a mandapa adjacent to the chedi. Unfortunately, we were unable to witness this sacred artifact due to the building’s closure during our visit. Wat Tra Phang Thong is distinguished as the only temple within the historical park with an active community of monks.
DAY 2 ITINERARY
Our second day was focused on the Southern and Western Zones, the least visited sections. These zones are outside the paying areas.
Wat Asokaram
The temple of Wat Asokaram is located outside the old city walls, in the Southern Zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park. While the site itself may be largely in ruins, its significance lies in the discovery of the Asokaram inscriptions, an invaluable source of Sukhothai history. Unearthed in the mid-20th century, the inscriptions are written in Siamese characters and Khmer script. They shed light on the establishment of Asokaram by a noblewoman from the inner royal circle. The original complex had a lotus-bud shaped chedi (currently in ruins), a viharn, a mandapa, and a subordinate chedi.
Wat Chedi Si Hong
Despite its modest size, this temple holds significant artistic merit in Sukhothai’s history. Located in the Southern Zone, the site is about 1.5km from the South Gate. The highlight of Wat Chedi Si Hong lies in its magnificent stucco adornments. These stucco figures have survived along three sides of the main chedi, depicting an array of animals and people. While some of them are damaged, enough remains to showcase the intricate details of garments and jewelry from the Sukhothai era. These represent a period of Sukhothai art that found nowhere else.
Wat Chetuphon
Situated as the largest temple in Sukhothai’s Southern Zone, Wat Chetuphon offers a unique architectural perspective. Unlike most temples having a central chedi that typically houses revered relics, Wat Chetuphon diverges from tradition. Instead, its focal point resides in the main mandapa, showcasing four imposing Buddha images. Each statue, positioned to face a different direction, embodies a distinct pose: walking, standing, sitting, and reclining. This unconventional arrangement offers visitors a multifaceted encounter with Buddhist iconography. Despite the passage of time, remnants of the surrounding wall stand today, serving as silent sentinels guarding the temple’s historical legacy.
Saritphong Dam
The Saritphong Dam is a testament to the ingenuity of the Sukhothai Kingdom in hydraulic engineering and water management. This legacy has been recognized by UNESCO. Constructed during the 14th century, the ancient marvel was designed to harness the power of water, providing essential resources to the kingdom. Through modifications to the landscape, they created reservoirs, ponds, and canals, effectively controlling floods and water supply. Remarkably, centuries later, the Saritphong Dam and its associated canals continue to serve the local population. The dam is a symbol of the enduring legacy of Sukhothai’s innovative water management systems.
Wat Saphan Hin
Perched atop a hill overlooking old Sukhothai, Wat Saphan Hin entices visitors with its serene ambiance and breathtaking vistas. The “Temple of the Stone Bridge” is accessible by climbing approximately 300 stone steps. At the pinnacle of the hill stands the crowning jewel of Wat Saphan Hin: a majestic 12-meter-tall standing Buddha image. This iconic statue, set atop the remnants of a viharn (assembly hall), casts a watchful gaze over the surrounding area. There is also a much smaller seated Buddha image enshrined in the viharn ruins.
Legend has it that King Ramkhamhaeng would ascend the hill atop a white elephant to pay homage to the revered standing Buddha, known as Phra Attharot. Today, visitors can follow in the footsteps of this legendary monarch by enjoying the spiritual aura of Wat Saphan Hin. The site, located in the Western Zone, also offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Bikes can be locked at a bike rack located across the road from the bottom of the stone path.
Wat Mangkom
Dubbed the “Temple of the Dragon,” Wat Mangkom sits by the road that cuts through the Western Zone. The temple’s standout feature is its glazed ceramic railing, a rare sight in Sukhothai. This unique detail adds artistic flair to the temple grounds, showing visitors its intricate craftsmanship. In addition to the unusual ceramic railing, Wat Mangkom has a range of historical treasures. These include the remnants of a Ceylonese-style bell-shaped chedi, a viharn once used for communal gatherings, and an ubosot (ordination hall).
Thewalai Mahakaset Shrine
Ho Thewalai Mahakaset, known as “The Building of the God,” dates to the 14th century. This Western Zone temple was originally dedicated to Brahmin priests for the worship of Hindu deities. What sets it apart is the distinctive mandapa design, characterized by eight brick columns resting on an elevated base. The structure’s unique architecture showcases the fusion of Hindu influences within Sukhothai’s cultural landscape. Ancient stone inscriptions reveal that the temple once enshrined images of Hindu Gods Shiva and Vishnu. While some of these bronze statues are now housed in the Ramkhamhaeng Museum and the National Museum in Bangkok, the legacy of Ho Thewalai Mahakaset endures as a symbol of Sukhothai’s religious and architectural heritage.
Traditional Sukhothai Ceramics
Sukhothai ceramics, celebrated for their exquisite craftsmanship, grace the collections of leading museums worldwide. After a lunch break, we explored two esteemed stores owned by a local family: Suthep Sangkhalok Ceramics and Ganesha Ceramic Gallery. They are located across the street from each other on Sai Sue Thai Alley. Suthep Sangkhalok Ceramics showcases traditional Thai pottery, offering classic pieces adorned with intricate motifs. Ganesha Ceramic Gallery presents a more contemporary interpretation, infusing traditional shapes with modern flair. Together, these stores embody some of the best in Sukhothai ceramic tradition.
Sukhothai Ramkhamhaeng National Museum
The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum is in the eastern side of Sukhothai’s Central Zone. It serves as a vital guardian of the kingdom’s cultural legacy. Here, exhibits offer an exploration of Sukhothai’s history, tracing its influence in the region and the evolution of its religious and cultural practices. From significant statues to precious artifacts and relics excavated from the area, the collection represents the kingdom’s enduring legacy and provides invaluable insights into its historical significance. The museum treats its visitors to a journey through Sukhothai’s storied past. It was interesting to see artifacts from sites we had previously visited, helping enhance our understanding of the ancient kingdom’s history. Open from 9 AM to 4 PM, the museum welcomes visitors with tickets priced at THB150.
Tra Phang Thong Market
The Tra Phang Thong Market is a must visit. This bustling market provides a glimpse into local life, where residents shop for fresh foods and regional products. It’s a chance to interact with locals and experience firsthand the vibrant atmosphere. From street food aromas to colorful crafts, the market offers a great sensory journey.
Places to Eat in Sukhothai
Sukhothai offers a delectable culinary scene alongside its famed ancient ruins, catering to food enthusiasts and hungry travelers. True to Thailand’s culinary reputation, Sukhothai boasts an array of tantalizing dishes. Notably, the city is renowned for Kuaytiaw Sukhothai, a spicy noodle dish featuring roasted pork and green beans. We sampled various eateries during our visit; here are some of the standouts.
Lom&Fon Kitchen
Nestled on the southeast edge of the historical park, Lom&Fon Kitchen is a delightful dining experience in a charming atmosphere. During our visit, we noticed a predominantly Thai clientele, adding to the authenticity of the setting. The extensive menu boasted a wide selection of classic dishes. Among our favorites were Beef in Ground Peanut-Coconut Cream Curry, Green Curry with Shrimp, Minced Pork Omelet, and Stir-Fried Chinese Morning Glory. Each dish showcased the restaurant’s dedication to delivering traditional flavors with excellence.
Phum Phor Coffee Restaurant
Our experience at Phum Phor Coffee Restaurant was gratifying. Serving as both a coffee house and a full-service restaurant, it offered a sophisticated dining atmosphere. This was possibly the most upscale place we encountered in Sukhothai, complete with elegant interiors and air conditioning. There are tables in the garden area as well. The diverse menu featured a blend of Sukhothai-style dishes, traditional Thai cuisine, and international fare. Every dish we sampled, from the flavorful Sukhothai Signature Noodles with Pork to the succulent Stir-Fried Pork in Red Curry and Coconut Milk, was a delight. Additional standouts included the Spicy Deep-Fried Morning Glory Salad with Minced Pork, Shrimp, and Squid, and the aromatic Stir-Fried Shrimp with Curry Powder. It was indeed a luscious dining experience.
Grandma Sert’s Kitchen (Krua Yai Sert Restaurant)
Tucked away on a quiet side street just outside Sukhothai’s historical park in the Northern Zone, Grandma Sert’s Kitchen offers a taste of authentic home-cooked Thai cuisine. This family-owned restaurant serves up fresh and delightful meals in an understated setting. During one of our bike tours, we stopped here for lunch, and our guide ordered our dishes. We loved the exquisite Crispy Papaya Salad and the delectable Tom Yum with Crispy Noodles and Shrimp.
Krung Kao Kitchen
Despite its popularity among tourists, we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner experience at Krung Kao Kitchen. Their delectable Thai cuisine is served at remarkably reasonable prices. Situated conveniently along the main road in the eastern side of the Central Zone, this restaurant offered a great array of dishes. From the tantalizing Stir-Fried Seafood with Chili Paste to the flavorful Stir-Fried Pork with Red Curry Paste and Basil, each dish was a culinary delight. We also savored unique sides like the Crispy Morning Glory Salad and the refreshing Mango Thai Salad. Our dining experience provided us with a burst of flavors and textures that left us wholly satisfied.
Sinvana Restaurant & Coffee House
Dining at the Sinvana Thai Restaurant was a delightful blend of flavorful Thai cuisine and charming ambiance. Situated on the main road, just outside the eastern side of the Central Zone, this semi-open-air eatery provided a welcoming atmosphere. This spacious restaurant offers delicious Thai dishes at reasonable prices. Among our favorites were the Sweet-and-Sour Salad with Pork Balls, the tantalizing Curry with Grilled Pork and Coconut PalmTips, the delectable Stir-Fried Cabbage in Fish Sauce, and the aromatic Stir-Fried Chicken with Garlic and Pepper. Each dish showcased the restaurant’s dedication to authentic Thai flavors.
Lodging in Sukhothai
The Baansuk Sukhothai Resort, located less than 2 miles from the Sukhothai Historic Park, turned out to be a conveniently located retreat. Our guide even considered it an ideal starting point for our daily bike tours. Run by a hospitable husband and wife team, the property exudes warmth and serenity. The individual bungalows are elevated and have views of the quaint pool area. While the resort offers daily breakfast with varied options, other meals are not served on-site. However, guests can easily explore nearby restaurants via a short inexpensive tuk-tuk ride. Wi-Fi is accessible throughout the property. We enjoyed our stay at Baansuk; it was extremely convenient and comfortable.
Reflecting on Sukhothai
Our journey in Sukhothai came to an end, leaving us with vivid memories. We had an wonderful time exploring the ancient ruins of Sukhothai Historical Park and savoring the local traditional Thai cuisine. Cycling through history, wandering bustling markets, and admiring intricate temple craftsmanship were some of our visit’s many highlights. Sukhothai not only revealed its glorious past but also embraced us in its vibrant present. As we bid farewell to this Thai gem, we departed with cherished memories and a deep appreciation for its beauty and heritage.
