Sri Lanka is an incredible country with a rich history, an astonishingly diverse landscape, a fascinating culture and spectacular wildlife. The food is delicious, the people are friendly and hospitable, and it is very affordable even if you are on a tight budget. Indeed, this is a destination that belongs on your bucket list.
A Bit of History . . .
This island country, formerly known as Ceylon, is located in the Indian Ocean very close to the southeastern coast of India. Legend claims that Sri Lanka was once connected by a land bridge to India. Its civilization can be traced as far back as the 6th century BCE and even back in ancient times, its geographic location was considered an important trading hub.
The People
Sri Lanka is densely populated, with diverse cultures, languages and ethnicities. Most of its population is Sinhalese, but there is a large minority Sri Lankan Tamil group who live predominantly in the north and east. Other small groups include Moors, Indian Tamils who the British brought in to work on tea plantations, and a few additional smaller minorities.
The country was occupied by the Portuguese in the 1500’s, then by the Dutch, and finally by the British who colonized it for 150 years. At that time, the country was known as Ceylon. Sri Lanka gained its independence in 1948. It became a republic in 1972, later enduring a 26-year civil war in its Northern Province until 2009. Colombo, located in the Western Province, is a main urban center and is the country’s executive and judicial capital.
Religion
Most Sri Lankans practice Buddhism but Hinduism is predominant in the Tamil areas. There are also Muslim and Christian minority groups. This means that, while driving through villages and towns around the country, you will come across Buddhist and Hindu temples as well as some mosques and churches. Religion is a big part of day-to-day life and Sri Lanka’s culture; Buddhist and Hindu temples and their rituals are an obvious influence on the cultural scene.
Our Sri Lanka Itinerary . . .
Sri Lanka is an extraordinarily diverse country with lively urban cities, great cultural diversity, pristine white sand beaches, dramatic verdant mountains, impressive waterfalls, breathtaking tea plantations, flourishing rice fields and thrilling wildlife national parks.
We spent 32 days traveling in Sri Lanka. This amount of time allowed us to visit many regions within the country and to soak in much of Sri Lanka’s culture and experience. Here was our itinerary:
- Colombo (3 nights)
- Anuradhapura (3 nights)
- Jaffna (3 nights)
- Trincomalee (3 nights)
- Sigiriya – Polonnaruwa, Dambulla Caves, Minneriya National Park (4 nights)
- Kandy (3 nights)
- Nuwara Eliya (2 nights)
- Ella/Ambadandegama Valley (4 nights)
- Yala (2 nights)
- Mirissa (2 nights)
- Galle/Weligama (3 nights)
A Shorter Itinerary
If you have limited time but still want to experience much of Sri Lanka diverse offerings, I recommend you include the following places in your itinerary:
- Colombo (since you will most likely be arriving and departing from here);
- Sigiriya (as a base to explore the Cultural Triangle, with day trips to Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, the Dambulla Caves and a safari in Minneriya National Park);
- Kandy (an artistic and cultural hub, and a great base for day trips);
- Ella (to experience the Hill Country and tea plantations); and
- Weligama (for some beach chill time and to visit Galle)
A lot of tourists head exclusively to the south upon arriving in Colombo. This is a mistake because they end up missing the spectacular sites of the north. Sri Lanka has extraordinary historical sites in its Cultural Triangle in the North Central Province. The region is home to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites. And, the climb to the top of Pidurangula for the amazing view of Sigiriya Rock and the surrounding area during a sunset is an unforgettable experience. We opted to explore the northern part of the country first before heading south for some beach chill time.
Getting Around Sri Lanka . . .
It is very easy to travel within Sri Lanka as there are many modes of transportation. Rail, bus and tuk-tuk fares are inexpensive, cars and scooters (and even tuk-tuks) can be rented, and Uber is available in Colombo. Nonetheless, the best way to get around the country is by hiring your own car and driver. In addition to saving a lot of time and aggravation, I cannot emphasize enough how convenient and efficient it was to have a driver with us almost the entire time.
We mostly used Uber tuk-tuks during our stay in Colombo. Almost all Uber tuk-tuk rides cost between $2-3 and proved to be a great way to move around the city. However, be aware that even though you get charged by the Uber App as soon as they assign you a driver, sometimes the driver still wants you to pay cash once you reach your destination.
While it’s possible to rent scooters and tuk-tuks, we would not recommend using these to travel long distances. They don’t go as fast on the roads and can be quite ineffective when negotiating hills. These are best used for short local trips. Also, even though the main roads are typically in good shape, some of the secondary roads can be very narrow and in poor shape. Our experience with GPS was that it would show the shortest and fastest way to get to a destination, but it did not recognize the poor state of side roads that at times were hardly passable.
Taking a Train in Sri Lanka . . .
If you decide to take the train during your trip, make sure to get your tickets in advance. We opted to take a train from Colombo to Anuradhapura. It was quite an interesting ride. The train was mostly sold out by the time we got our tickets, so instead of getting 2nd class tickets, we had to settle for 3rd class, which is typically more crowded. The difference in cost between classes in a train is only about $1. Our recommendation is to reserve 2nd class seats if available. But if that’s not an option, it’s better to have a reserved seat in 3rd class rather than not having a reserved seat in 2nd class. At least you won’t have to stand during the entire ride.
The 1st class car is air-conditioned and the windows remain shut; so, if you want to be able to stick your head out to take good photos, it’s best to travel in the 2nd class car. This is especially true if you take the scenic train ride from Kandy to Ella, along the tea plantations on the Hill Country. The climate is cooler up in the mountains, so you really don’t need to be in an air-conditioned car.
Getting a Train Ticket
The Sri Lankan Railways does not have a direct online booking system. The most economical way to purchase a ticket is to go to any train station and book it in person. Regardless of the departure location or destination, you can book your ticket and have it issued at the train station where you do the booking. For instance, we purchased our train ticket from Nuwara Eliya to Ella at the Jaffna train station.
You can also book your ticket ahead of time online through a third-party operator such as Visit Sri Lanka Tours or 12Go Asia. While this may be convenient, you will pay a premium for it. For instance, 1st class tickets from Kandy to Ella typically costs approximately $4, but we paid $19 through Sri Lanka Tours. They then sent us an email with the reservation number, and we were able to go to the local train station to have the ticket printed out.
Hiring a Driver in Sri Lanka . . .
Hiring a private driver during our Sri Lanka journey made our trip a much better experience. We stopped along the way whenever we saw something interesting; visited places we didn’t know existed; pulled over to buy snacks, fruits and drink king coconut water; witnessed all kinds of activities along the roads such as roaming animals, harvesting of rice and the sale of treacle and buffalo curd; and we didn’t have to worry about getting to our destinations without getting lost.
The going rate for drivers is $55-65 per day. In addition to the daily fee, you are also responsible for the driver’s accommodations and meals. It sounds like a lot of additional costs, but most hotels offer driver’s accommodations free of charge and meals cost an average of $1-2. In the two instances where we stayed at a guesthouse that couldn’t accommodate the driver, they helped get local accommodations nearby for a low rate.
The Best Driver
Our driver, Anura Danasiri, took great care of us during our Sri Lanka trip. After serving as a driver in the Army for 22 years, Anura became a private driver. He knew all the sites we wanted to visit, he took us to some sites we were not aware of (especially in the north where he was stationed with the military), he helped organize our daily itineraries based on the locations of places we wanted to visit, and he made sure we didn’t get overcharged anywhere. Furthermore, he had contacts in several cities and helped us make hotel reservations and safari arrangements. Thoughtful and accommodating, he made sure we always had snacks and water available in the car. He even insisted on cooking our last Sri Lankan Rice & Curry meal before we left.
While he is based in Anuradhapura, he can easily pick you up at the international airport upon your arrival in Colombo. He can be reached via WhatsApp at +94(77)238-2007 or at anuradanasiri2007@gmail.com.
Hiring a Guide in Sri Lanka . . .
In addition to having a driver, it’s helpful to hire a guide at certain sites. Rather than hiring a guide to travel along with you, we recommend hiring local guides because only some sites warrant the need for one.
For instance, we decided to hire a tuk-tuk driver in Colombo for a 3-hour tour of the city. He showed us all the main sights and told us a bit of history about each location. We selected a tuk-tuk driver that was posted across from our hotel after the hotel staff assured us that he was legitimate. Just be careful not to fall prey to a scam and make sure to negotiate the price before getting into the tuk-tuk. We paid Rs 3,000 ($15) but you can find drivers charging as little as Rs 1,500. Finding someone who spoke English clearly was more important than saving a few bucks.
The other two places where we recommend having a guide are Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa. The cost to hire a local guide for a half-day is $20. Not only will you get a lot of information, but you save a lot of time going from site to site. You will also need a car or tuk-tuk driver to take you and the guide to the various locations. They know the best progression to visit the different sites, helping make the most of your day without wasting time. Guides will also be at the entrance to several sites should you decide to hire one once you get there. They are usually trustworthy and informative.
Here is the contact information about two guides we hired during our trip that we thought were excellent:
- Anuradhapura: Neel, +94(77)597-3714
- Polonnaruwa: Suranga, +94(77)673-1130
The best way to contact Neel or Suranga is through WhatsApp. They spoke English well. We highly recommend them.
Our driver, Anura, helped us with arrangements for safari drivers at Minneriya National Park and Yala National Park. That turned out to be more favorable than making arrangements through our hotels.
Things You Should Know About Sri Lanka . . .
Language
Sinhala and Tamil are the two official languages in Sri Lanka. Even though English is used for education, most people are not fluent in it. However, you will easily find someone who speaks enough English to help with directions, ordering food at restaurants, or shopping. Furthermore, much of the signs at historic sites, train stations and tourist attractions are in multiple languages, including English.
Currency
Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR), issued by the Central Bank of Sri Lanka. The symbol “Rs” is commonly used for published prices.
Credit Cards & ATMs in Sri Lanka
Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in larger urban centers. However, we found that in smaller towns and rural areas, only hotels accepted credit and debit cards. Most independent restaurants operate on a cash basis, so be certain to carry enough rupees with you. Even government sanctioned tickets at Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and National Parks require cash payments. Although ATMs can be found all over the country, however, we found out that our American debit card would only work at People’s Bank ATMs. So, you may need to test your foreign bank card at a couple of different banks before you are able to make withdrawals.
Safety in Sri Lanka
We felt extremely safe everywhere we went in Sri Lanka. We did a lot of walking around cities and rural areas, during the day and at night, never feeling we were at any risk. Due to the terrorist attack that took place in 2019, there is military presence in some important religious sites and check points on certain roads; however, we didn’t have any reason to be concerned about our safety. If you drive through more remote areas, where there might be a prevalence of wild animals, you will see plenty of warning signs calling your attention to their crossings. So, keep your eye out for them.
Clothing
A lot of the historic sites in Sri Lanka revolve around Buddhist and Hindu temples. Both men and women must wear garments that cover their legs (trousers or sarongs) and shoulders. Shoes must be removed in order to enter temples or religious sites.
We recommend wearing flip-flops or sandals for convenience; moreover, most Sri Lankans wear flip-flops all the time. Be aware that you must leave your shoes outside the temples and religious grounds; you cannot remove your shoes and carry them with you. In certain Hindu temples, such as the Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil, men must remove their shirts before entering the temple.
What to Eat
Sri Lankan cuisine is delicious and very inexpensive. Even though there are influences from India and Indonesia, the country is known for its herbs and spices which give the food its own distinctive flavors. The most common dish is “Rice and Curry”, which is served with white or red rice, a curry of fish or meat, along with curries made with vegetables, lentils and fruits. Salads, chutneys and sambals are also served with it. Another typical dish not to be missed is the Kottu, a spicy stir-fry of shredded roti bread with vegetables. You can also add a meat to it.
Our favorite breakfast item was the Egg Hopper which consists of a firm crepe-like shell with an egg cooked in the center. It’s served with Lunu Miris on the side, a mix of red onions and spices. Buffalo Curd and Treacle, a syrup made from sugarcane, was another favorite which is served at breakfast and sometimes as a dessert.
And our very favorite dessert was the Watalappam, which is like a dense dark crème caramel made with coconut milk, eggs and jaggery. Just writing about it makes me want to go back for more of these amazing dishes.
Photo Ops
Keep in mind that no one should ever pose for a photo with his or her back turned to a Buddha or a Stupa. That applies to religious sites, public parks or any location in towns or even along roads. These are considered extremely religious symbols and posing with your back to them is very disrespectful. One must stand at an angle in order to avoid turning the back to them.
Best Times to Visit Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka has a tropical and warm climate with sunshine most of the year, making it a genuine year-round destination. However, there are two monsoon seasons that impact different parts of the island. The western, southern and central regions are affected by a monsoon from May to July. Another monsoon brings rain to the northern and eastern regions from December to January. The winter months (December – March) are a great time to visit the entire country, especially the south and west regions which are dry and sunny during this time. This is considered peak season in those regions, so if you would like peace and quiet on a beach, head to the northeast. We loved the nearly deserted beaches when we visited Trincomalee. Peak season for the beaches in the north and northeast regions takes place during the summer months (May – September).
The Hill Country, in the Central Province, is cooler and may experience rains at any time of the year. We experienced very little rain during our entire stay in Sri Lanka.
Keep in mind that travel in post Covid days bring about several constraints as well as rewards. Sri Lanka has one of the least number of requirements, making it a popular destination in Asia. But rules may change at any time based on the level of Covid infections and variants. Don’t let that get in the way of your wanderlust desires. Be flexible and “roll with the punches”. Residents are eager to get business; this is probably your opportunity to find some very good deals and enjoy sites without crowds of tourists.
Power Plugs
The standard voltage in Sri Lanka is 230V and the frequency is 50Hz. They typically have two power plug types: D and G, from British origin. In some places they had outlets that also accepted power plug type A, which is standard in the USA. And in most places USB outlets were not available, making the use of a power plug necessary to charge laptops and mobile devices. So, the best is for you to cover your bases and get an adapter that will work with all these options.
Falling in Love . . .
Sri Lanka is a beautiful and versatile island country with something for everyone. It will surprise you with its wealth of world heritage sites, scenic train rides, rolling tea plantations, impressive biodiversity, welcoming people, and amazing cuisine. We simply fell in love with it as we crisscrossed its land from east to west and north to south. If Sri Lanka was not on your radar, you should indeed place it on your bucket list.
[…] For more information about getting around Sri Lanka, booking train tickets, and hiring a guide and a driver, click here. […]