São João del Rei's Timeless Colonial Splendor • Jet-Setting Duo

São João del Rei, a charming colonial town in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil, dates to 1713. The city boasts a captivating mix of Portuguese colonial architectural styles. From Baroque churches to colorful mansions, each corner unveils a piece of history waiting to be explored. One of the city’s highlights is its impressive collection of churches. But São João del Rei is not a haven for history buffs only; it’s also a hub of exciting cultural activity.

From bustling street markets filled with crafts to traditional festivals, there is always something happening in this lively city. The region is also known for its cuisine, including favorites like “Feijão Tropeiro” and “Queijo Minas”. So, if you’re yearning for a journey back in time, pack your bags and head to São João del Rei. This hidden gem promises an unforgettable adventure filled with culture, cuisine, and countless moments of wonder.

A picturesque view of a historic, cobblestone street lined with colonial-style buildings in São João del Rei, Brazil, under a blue sky with scattered clouds. — Charming São João del Rei

Table of Contents

The History of São João del Rei

São João del Rei’s history is a saga of discovery, prosperity, and resilience. It originated as a modest village on the banks of the Rio das Mortes. But its fate pivoted with the uncovering of substantial gold reserves in the nearby hills during 1703-1704. This discovery ignited a rush of outsiders seeking fortune, leading to the settlement becoming a town in 1713. Its name payed homage to King João V and Tomé Portes del Rei, its pioneering settler.

A colonial-style building with a white façade, blue trim around windows and doors, and a balcony lined with flowers, located on a cobblestone street, in São João del Rei, under a clear blue sky. — Colonial Architecture

São João del Rei burgeoned into a bustling center of commerce and culture during the 18th century Gold Cycle. It became renowned for its trade in gold and agricultural goods like coffee and sugar. This era saw the construction of majestic Baroque-style buildings and churches, emblematic of the town’s newfound prosperity and cultural vitality.

After a period of resistance against colonial rule, the area went into economic decline. However, São João del Rei experienced a resurgence in the 19th century with the booming coffee industry. Its elevation to city status in 1938 marked a milestone. Furthermore, it was propelled by railway connections to major urban centers like São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Today, São João del Rei is an important destination with an enduring spirit, a blend of heritage, commerce, and cultural vibrancy. It is also the only place in Brazil that produces pewter decorative objects and home goods.

A picturesque street view showcasing a prominent white colonial church with an ornate façade, set against a backdrop of lush green hills and a cloudy sky. — View from our Pousada

Getting to São João del Rei

The best way to reach São João del Rei is by renting a car, especially if you plan to visit several of the neighboring colonial towns. This provides the flexibility to explore the region at your own pace and delve into its rich history. Flying into Belo Horizonte (BH), as we did, and renting a car from Localiza’s airport location was a convenient option. São João del Rei is approximately 188km south of BH, and the drive typically takes around 3.5 hours. Alternatively, if you’re staying in Tiradentes, one of the area’s more popular colonial towns, you can easily make a day trip to São João del Rei. The 16km drive only takes about 25 minutes. A car will ensure that you make the most of your exploration in this enchanting corner of Minas Gerais.

Where to Stay While Visiting São João del Rei

When planning your stay in São João del Rei, consider opting for accommodations in the heart of the city itself. The charming Pousada Villa Magnolia turned out to be an excellent option. While many visitors choose to base themselves in nearby Tiradentes and make day trips to São João del Rei, we did the opposite. We extended our stay at this Pousada which allowed us to make multiple day trips to Tiradentes. Staying in São João del Rei offered a more budget-friendly option.

Charming traditional brazilian house with white walls and blue window frames. features a decorative iron-gated staircase leading to the entrance under lush green palm trees. — Entrance at Pousada Villa Magnolia

Pousada Villa Magnolia is a converted mansion now serving as a comfortable Bed & Breakfast. The spacious rooms offered a cozy sanctuary, and the attentive staff ensured our stay was nothing short of memorable. A highlight of our mornings was the delicious breakfast spread, setting us up for a day of exploration. Situated directly across the street from the iconic Church of São Francisco de Assis, the most important attraction in town, the location couldn’t be more convenient. This proximity allowed us to easily explore the town’s sites on foot, and the added perk of free parking on the property made it even more appealing. Its central location made it the perfect base for our São João del Rei adventure.

Elegant room featuring a vintage-style chair, a table with an orchid pot, framed pictures on the walls, and an arched doorway leading to a bedroom with a wrought-iron bed. — Our Bedroom

Interior of the rustic breakfast room at Pousada Villa Magnolia, in São João del Rei, with wooden beam ceilings, stone walls, and wooden dining tables set with white plates. — Breakfast at Pousada Villa Magnolia

10 Best Places to Visit in São João del Rei

Four people standing in front of the ornate São Francisco de Assis Church in São João del Rei, Brazil, under a partly cloudy sky. — Our Guide

Opting to enlist the expertise of a local guide proved to be a wise decision during our exploration of São João del Rei. With so much to see, having a knowledgeable guide by our side allowed us to cover efficiently the city’s highlights without missing any important sites. We found several licensed guides stationed outside Igreja São Francisco de Assis, the city’s most renowned attraction. You will recognize them by their yellow t-shirts and official badges. However, be aware that not all guides speak English. We paid R$300 for a guide for the day, including tip.

1. Igreja São Francisco de Assis (Church of St. Francis of Assisi)

An old baroque church with two ornate towers and a central circular window, surrounded by a decorative iron fence, under a cloudy sky. — Entrnace at Igreja São Francisco de Assis

It was easy for us to understand why this structure is such an icon in the city. The Igreja de São Francisco de Assis epitomizes the grandeur of colonial sacred art in Brazil. Constructed in 1774, this architectural gem is a testament to the country’s rich heritage and artistic prowess. Renowned for its Baroque architecture and intricate carvings, the church was initially designed by Aleijadinho, a legendary master sculptor of the time. While his influence is unmistakable, the church’s journey to completion was not without its twists and turns. Francisco de Lima Cerqueira, overseeing the construction, made significant modifications to the original plans. These included alterations to the towers, pilasters, and nave. Despite these adjustments, the collaborative effort of several esteemed artists ensured the church’s eventual completion in the early 1800s. Its architecture and interiors showcase a harmonious fusion of Baroque and Rococo elements.

Interior of a baroque-style church with ornate golden altars, a grand chandelier, and visitors admiring the architecture. wooden pews line the nave leading to the altar. — Elaborate Carvings at Igreja São Francisco de Assis

One of our highlights was attending the church’s Sunday service at 9:15 AM. We experienced the enchanting sounds of its organ, along with an orchestra and chorus. There is a cemetery directly behind the church which is also part of the city’s history. It is the final resting place of Tancredo Neves, a native of São João del Rei who rose to prominence as a beloved politician. He was elected president of Brazil but passed away before taking office. His legacy is etched into the hearts of many Brazilians, especially of the locals.

A scenic cemetery with ornate grave markers and tombs under a vivid cloudy sky, featuring a historic church with baroque architecture in the background. — Cemetery Behind the Church

2. Catedral Nossa Senhora do Pilar (Cathedral Our Lady of the Pillar)

A majestic white colonial church with twin bell towers and red doors, set against a dramatic sky with fluffy clouds, located atop a series of broad steps, in São João del Rei. — Catedral N. S. do Pilar

The Catedral Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar is a mesmerizing building in the heart of São João del Rei. Its magnificence lies not only in its grandeur but also in the opulent adornments in its sacred spaces. Construction on the cathedral commenced in 1721, enduring the legacy of the town’s devout residents and their commitment to faith. Sponsored by the Brotherhood of Blessed Sacrament, an institution reserved for São João del Rei’s affluent white men, the cathedral served as a symbol of prestige and piety in the community.

Interior of a baroque church showing ornate golden altars, elaborate ceiling frescoes, crystal chandeliers, and rows of wooden pews leading to the altar. — Gold Leaf Altars at Catedral N. S. do Pilar

For us, what truly set the cathedral apart is its lavish interior, resplendent with the shimmer of gold leaf and the intricate beauty of Portuguese tiles. The juxtaposition of Neoclassical façade and Baroque interior creates a captivating aesthetic harmony. As one gazes upon the cathedral’s towering spires, their eyes are drawn to the rightmost tower, adorned with a Dutch clock installed in 1905. This replaced the original one.

3. Ponte do Rosário (Rosário Bridge)

Three people standing on an old stone bridge with three arches over a small river, with historic buildings and parked cars in the background under a blue sky. — Ponte do Rosário

The Ponte do Rosário, or Rosário Bridge, is one of the main bridges in the city center. We crossed it many times given the location of our accommodation. This masonry bridge was constructed in 1800 to replace a wooden bridge swept away by floods of the Lenheiro River. It was a vital thoroughfare to accommodate both pedestrian and vehicular traffic, serving as a lifeline connecting the two banks of the river.

However, beneath its functional façade lies a poignant reminder of Brazil’s dark past. It is believed that the stone benches on the sides of the bridge once served as platforms for the auctioning of slaves. Enslaved individuals would sit on one bench while prospective buyers gathered on the opposite side. Each slave would then be brought to the center of the bridge, where their fates were determined amidst the bustling transactions. This certainly left a mark on the bridge’s storied legacy.

4. Largo da Cruz

A charming cobblestone path leads through a tree-lined square, flanked by benches and ornate lamp posts, with colorful colonial-style buildings under a bright sky. — Largo da Cruz

There are five chapels throughout São João del Rei representing Christ’s Stations of the Cross. These are only open during Lent and the Holly Week, when processions take place in a recreation of the Way of the Cross. Largo da Cruz is a quaint and historic square where one of the chapels is located. It’s a popular destination when the processions take place. An array of colonial-era buildings with colorful façades, including charming cafes, artisan shops, and galleries surround the square. We found this to be a great place for a break while wandering the cobbled pathways of this enchanting city.

5. Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário (Church of Our Lady of the Rosary)

An image showing a white colonial church with twin bell towers against a blue sky, located in a cobbled street, in São João del Rei, lined with traditional houses. A statue stands in the foreground. — The Majestic Igreja N. S. do Rosário

The Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário stands in the heart of São João del Rei. This majestic church was built in the 18th century in the Baroque style which was prevalent at the time. It was originally built by and for the town’s Afro-Brazilian community. It served as a sanctuary for worship and a testament to the resilience and strength of the city’s diverse population. Intricate Rococo details adorn the striking façade, showing some neoclassical influence. The two existing towers were added in the early 20th century. Unfortunately, we were not able to enter the church since it was closed at the time of our visit. This is the oldest church still standing in the city.

6. Igreja Nossa Senhora das Mercês (Church of Our Lady of Mercy)

Historic baroque church with yellow and white facade, flanked by a red door and cobblestone pathways under a cloudy sky, located in a serene town square in São João del Rei, Brazil. — Monumental Stairs at the Igreja N. S. das Mercês

Dating back to the 19th century, the Igreja Nossa Senhora das Mercês is a significant landmark in São João del Rei. The current structure was rebuilt in 1877, replacing the original chapel built in 1751. Perched atop monumental stone stairs, the church commands a striking presence in the cityscape. Its façade, adorned with Baroque embellishments, shows off the skilled craftsmanship of the era. Unfortunately, we were not able visit its interior, but it was worth climbing the stairs for the vista of the city center. The illuminated façade is even more striking after dark.

7. Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Church Our Lady of Mount Carmel)

A cobblestone street in a historic town, leading to an ornate white church flanked by two bell towers. Colorful colonial-style houses line the street under a cloudy sky. — Approaching Igreja N. S. do Carmo

Baroque church with ornate white facade and twin bell towers against a blue sky with clouds. People and parked cars are visible in the cobblestone square in front. — Innovative Façade of Igreja N. S. do Carmo

The Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo is another striking building in São João del Rei’s historic center – and one of our favorites. Its stand-out structure showcases the exquisite craftsmanship of the Rococo period. Construction of the church began in the late 18th century, spanning into the early 19th century. The architectural design incorporates several notable innovative features. Among these are the soapstone sculptural decorations adorning the portal, paying homage to the Carmelite Order. Another is the placement of the octagonal towers delicately set back from the façade.

Interior of a baroque church with ornate white and gold altars, statues, and chandeliers. Rows of wooden pews lead up to the main altar adorned with religious imagery. — White Rococo Carvings

Magnificently executed carvings greet visitors as they step inside the stunning white interior. Unlike most colonial churches in the state of Minas Gerais, gilding was not used on the decorations. The absence of gold leafing allows the intricate craftsmanship of carvings to shine.

8. Rua das Casas Tortas (Crooked Houses Street)

A quaint cobbled street, in São João del Rei, lined with colorful colonial-style buildings under a bright blue sky, featuring a vintage car parked near a "no parking" sign. — The Crooked Houses Street

Part of the allure of exploring São João del Rei is its charming cobblestone streets in the historic center. While wandering through the enchanting old town streets is a highlight, the “Crooked Houses Street” (Rua Santo Antonio) was a favorite. Here, the crooked façades of the colorful buildings, with their leaning angles and uneven lines, tell a tale of the passage of time. The imperfections caused by the settling of structures over centuries enhance the old charm of São João del Rei’s architectural treasures.

9. Municipal Theater of São João del Rei

Classical architectural building with orange flags hanging, prominent stairs leading to the entrance under a cloudy sky, flanked by side buildings. — Greco-Roman Façade of the Municipal Theater

The Municipal Theater of São João del Rei is a proud testament to the city’s cultural heritage. Inaugurated in 1893, the theater underwent a transformative renovation in 1913. This resulted in the Greco-Roman architectural style that graces its façade today. Grand doorways and imposing Greek columns were incorporated at that time. Sculpted faces were added to pay homage to theater, music, and art, serving as a fitting tribute to the structure’s significance. Atop the building, a statue of Apollo, the Greek patron of arts, music, and poetry, gazes out over the city as a beacon of culture. Despite falling into disrepair over the years, the theater underwent a remarkable restoration. Its triumphant reopening in 2003 ensured that its legacy of artistic excellence continues to shine.

10. Municipal Market of São João del Rei

A food stall in the São João del Rei Municipal Market, filled with rows of cachaça bottles on upper shelves and traditional soapstone pots on lower shelves. — Cachaças and Soapstone Pots at the Municipal Market

Where would you find a bustling hub of activity where the city’s culture and commerce converge? The Municipal Market of São João del Rei is a lively spot offering a feast of culinary delights and local craftsmanship. From fresh produce to meats, grains, and herbs, the market offers a cornucopia of ingredients. Yet, what truly set the market apart for us was its treasure trove of regional specialties. The variety of local cachaças, fiery hot peppers brined in oils, and jars of irresistible homemade sweets stood out as must-try delights. Each stall offers a unique glimpse into the flavors and traditions of São João del Rei. Our visit to the market was an unforgettable journey of discovery and indulgence.

Shelves stocked with assorted preserved foods in glass jars, including jams, pickles, and sauces, each labeled with prices in a grocery store. — Regional Sweet Delights

Shelves stocked with various bottles of cooking oils and condiments, including several large bottles filled with red chili peppers, in a store. — Regional Sweet Delights

Places to Eat in São João del Rei

When exploring São João del Rei, be sure to relish the flavors of Minas Gerais. The cuisine is known for its hearty stews, savory meats, and decadent sweets. Make sure to savor a traditional “Tutu a Mineira” at a local eatery or sample artisanal cheeses at a street market. Every bite tells a story of culinary tradition and local pride.

Restaurante Espaço Libertastes

A cozy street-side restaurant named "Libertastes" at night, featuring a well-lit interior with guests dining, large windows, and an outdoor area with wooden chairs and potted plants. — Espaço Libertastes Brewery & Restaurant

Originally established as a brewery in 2015, Espaço Libertastes has evolved into a market, bakery, and restaurant, all under one roof. Here, the chef celebrates the rich flavors and culinary traditions of the region with a modern twist. During our visit, we savored the delights of regional cuisine, such as the Torresmo (pork belly rinds) served with tangy orange jam, creamy polenta, and crispy collard greens. We also enjoyed the Bolinhos de Feijão (stuffed bean beignets) accompanied by a savory bacon jelly. Even the classic Brazilian caipirinha received a local touch, crafted with Sicilian lemon and sweetened with “xarope de rapadura,” a syrup made from unrefined whole cane sugar. This is a great place for a meal or just drinks and savory snacks during a visit to São João del Rei.

A spread of a traditional Minas Gerais dish: a pot of creamy polenta, fried pork belly slices, and a side of collard greens, served on a wooden dining table. — The Regional Torresmo

A plate of fried bean beignets with bacon relish, topped with crispy shredded greens, served on a sleek black rectangular dish. — The Regional Torresmo

Restaurante Monte Alverne

Monte Alverne was recommended by our Pousada (B&B) in São João del Rei. The restaurant is situated on a quaint square directly opposite the iconic Igreja de São Francisco de Assis. Dining tables on the sidewalk treats patrons to a splendid view of the church. The restaurant boasts an extensive menu that caters to diverse palates, ensuring there’s something for everyone to enjoy. We stopped for lunch and were particularly enamored with the “Bolinho de Tapioca com Carne Seca.” This is a tapioca croquette stuffed with cured dry beef – a regional delicacy that tantalized our taste buds. Another favorite was the “Pastéis de Angu”, a corn flour empanada with chicken and Catupiry cheese filling. With its charming location, flavorful cuisine, and warm hospitality, Restaurante Monte Alverne is a must-visit destination for culinary enthusiasts.

Scenario Chopp Café

Nighttime street view of an illuminated restaurant named Scenario, in São João del Rei, with festive lights, set in a quaint building with traditional architecture. — Entrance at Scenario Chopp Café

Located close to our Pousada, Scenario Chopp Café promises a casual yet memorable gastronomic experience. True to its name, it offers patrons the perfect setting to unwind and savor a glass of chilled “Chopp,” a Brazilian draft-style beer. During our dinner visit, we indulged in the grilled Picanha paired with rustic potatoes and “farofa”, a favorite accompaniment made from roasted manioc flour. Additionally, we delighted in the Shrimp Risotto infused with the zesty tang of Sicilian lemon and the richness of local artisanal butter. With its relaxed ambiance and delicious offerings, Scenario Chopp Café is a great spot where visitors can savor the flavors of Brazil.

A dinner setup with grilled picanha and seasoned potato wedges on a black serving tray, accompanied by a small bowl of farofa, on a wooden table. — Grilled Picanha, Rustic Potatoes & Farofa

Magical São João del Rei

A picturesque street in the historical town of São João del Rei with cobblestone pavement and traditional, colorful houses with white walls and classic windows. — Cobblestone Street in Historic Center

Our trip to São João del Rei was magical. We felt as we were transported back in time to a period of elegance and splendor. We enjoyed walks along the cobblestone streets admiring the stunning 18th century architecture. From the churches to the markets and cozy eateries, São João del Rei was captivating. Located in the heart of Minas Gerais, the city beautifully highlights the region’s history and cultural importance. Exploring its fascinating past and delectable cuisine left us with wonderful memories.

São João del Rei’s Timeless Colonial Splendor