Polonnaruwa: Sri Lanka’s Second Ancient Capital

Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka’s second most ancient city, is a must-see destination in the Cultural Triangle.  It includes temples, shrines and palaces, many of which still have well-preserved ruins.  In addition, the city design incorporated irrigation techniques and reservoirs given the importance of water in the kingdom. Some of these are still used today.  As a result of its important archeological treasures, UNESCO designated Polonnaruwa a World Heritage Site.

A Little History

In the 10th century, the Chola Dynasty, which was Tamil from southern India, conquered Sri Lanka.  In 993 C.E., following their destruction of Anuradhapura, the Chola dynasty established Polonnaruwa as its capital.  However, in 1070 C.E., the Sinhalese Resistance reconquered Polonnaruwa and kept it as the capital for 300 years. 

King Parakramabahu I established Polonnaruwa as a powerful Sinhalese dynasty during the 12^th century C.E.  His kingdom marked the city’s Golden Age as a thriving commercial and religious hub.  In fact, most of the ancient structures that remain today are from that era.  Unfortunately, the city was abandoned in the 14^th century C.E. as a result of south India’s ability to launch invasions upon Polonnaruwa.  The city was rediscovered in the mid-1800’s, after being hidden for centuries.

Organizing the Trip to Polonnaruwa

We toured Polonnaruwa on a half-day trip from Sigiriya.  It is only 90 minutes by car.  The ancient city covers a large area.  And, due to the distances between sites, it is very difficult to visit by foot.  Some visitors choose to do it on bicycles, which are available for rent locally. However, the heat can be quite intense for bike riding.  We recommend hiring a driver with either a car or a tuk-tuk to take you around.  It will save you a lot of time as well.

Visiting the City

We also recommend hiring a local guide in order to get the most out of your visit.  The cost to hire a guide is $20 USD.  We found ours at the parking lot next to the Archaeological Museum of Polonnaruwa.  (This is where the guides hang out while waiting for tourists.)  He spoke English well and was knowledgeable, personable and very funny.  First, he took us through the museum to introduce us to all the monuments, layout, and history of this glorious city.  Then, we headed to the sites.  You can contact our guide, Suranga, through WhatsApp at +94 (077) 673-1130.

To visit the ancient city, you must purchase your ticket at the museum.  Each ticket costs $25 USD and they only accept cash.  You should allow 3.5 hours for your visit, assuming you have a driver to take you from site to site. 

Following are the top sites in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa:

Pothgul Viharaya Monastic Library Complex

This is a library and monastic complex constructed during the Parakramabahu kingdom. The structures were built in the 12^th century C.E.  The word “Pothgul” translates into a place to store books.  The complex housed monks and was a literary center for Buddhist writings.

Palace of King Parakramabahu

Build in the 12^th Century CE, the majestic structure was once 7 stories high.  Allegedly ministers, generals and servants shared the palace.  The remaining massive walls (an imposing 9 feet thick and 30 feet high) give us an idea of the building’s grandiose stature.

The Council Chamber

These ruins contain one of the best-preserved building details in the royal complex.  The entry stairway contains two moonstones and grand stone balustrades, crowned by large carved lions.  The upper level has beautifully carved stone columns.  The elevated base has 3 tiers with stunning carved friezes that surround the structure.

Kumara Pokuna (Prince’s Pond)

The Polonnaruwa monarchs used this pond as a royal bathing pool.  Its location on a lower grade of the citadel allows water from nearby water sources to flow efficiently into it.  The water spills into the pond through carved stone dragon mouths.  The square-shaped basin has steps to allow easy access to the water. A carved stone lotus flower pad decorates the center.  The adjacent pavilion is believed to have been used as a changing room.

The Sacred Quadrangle

Sacred-Quadrangle-Diagram-converted

Dalada Maluwa (Terrace of the Tooth Relic) is the most important archaeological section of Polonnaruwa.  This sacred terrace is known as the Sacred Quadrangle and contains 12 religious structures.  Given the power connected to the protection of the Sacred Tooth Relic, many of the rulers wanted to build their own “Tooth Temple”.  As a result, the site holds several ruins worth visiting.  Here are some of the main highlights on the terrace:

Thuparama Image House

This Gedige-style structure has a vaulted roof constructed with brick. The building is decorated with Dravidian-influenced carvings and statues.  The inner sanctum contains four beautifully executed standing Buddhas.  This site was undergoing a restoration during our visit.

Nissanka Latha Mandapaya

This is a unique structure in the Quadrangle.  Its design has open sides surrounded by what looks like a fence made with stone rails.   The building contains eight carved stone columns that once supported a roof.  These columns have special shapes, including crowns in the shape of a blossoming lotus flower.  Unlike most columns, these have curved shapes mimicking the stem of a flower.  The architecture is distinctive and dates to the 12^th century C.E.  The building was used by King Nissanka Malla to listen to chanting of Buddhist scriptures.

Atadage

The Atadage dates to the reign of King Vijayabahu I.  “Atadage” translates into “house of eight relics”.  Old documents indicate that the building may have contained the Sacred Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha in the 11^th century C.E.  Inscriptions indicate that Tamil guards from South India protected the sacred relics in the temple.  The current ruin includes 54 carved stone columns. In addition, there is a standing Buddha and a beautiful moonstone located at the bottom of the front steps.

Hatadage

King Nissanka Malla, the grandson of King Parakramabahu I, built this temple in the 12^th century C.E.  There are a lot of similarities with the Atadage, including its name and purpose.  Protection of the Sacred Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha was viewed as a symbol of royal power at the time.  The building ruins include archways beautifully adorned with stone carvings that lead to stone paved terraces.  The entrance moonstone, balustrade and decorative stone panels are exquisite.  The main chamber has three tall standing Buddhas carved out of granite.

Polonnaruwa Vatadage

There are different theories as to who built the Polonnaruwa Vatadage.  However, scholars agree that this circular shrine enshrined either the Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha or the alms bowl used by the Buddha.  Both relics are important objects in Sinhalese culture.  Vatadages are structures that protect small stupas.  They are typically designed with rows of concentric columns that support a wooden roof.  The structure has a lower and an upper platform, both surrounded by a brick wall. 

The lower platform has a single entrance and a row of stone columns that once supported a roof. The upper platform consists of a stupa in the center, flanked by four Buddhas in a seated position.  Access to the upper section is provided via four magnificent carved stone staircases with adorned balustrades and guard stones on the sides.  The Buddha statues face each of the entrances which are oriented towards the four cardinal points.

Sathmahal Prasada

This unique structure is in the northeast corner of the Quadrangle.  No one knows who built the 7-story stepped pyramid or for what purpose.  Only a small part of the seventh level remains.  Scholars speculate that it was built between the 11^th and 13^th centuries C.E.  The building has a unique square shape and is the only one of its type found in Sri Lanka.  Its architecture is different from any built in ancient Sri Lankan cities.  Instead, it resembles the architecture commonly found in Cambodia during that time.

Gal Potha – Stone Book

Important texts were usually documented by inscriptions carved into stone.  Gal Potha is a massive stone slab with well-preserved writings.  It is approximately 27 feet long and 4.5 feet wide. Apparently, this was King Nissanka Malla’s way to memorialize information about himself. The engravings included the rules during his reign. In addition, it also defined the eligibility of becoming a king in ancient Sri Lanka.

Rankoth Vihara

This enormous Buddhist stupa is the largest in Polonnaruwa. Furthermore, Rankoth Vihara is the fourth largest in Sri Lanka.  Its name translates into the “Golden Pinnacle Stupa”.  King Nissanka Malla built the structure in the late 12^th century C.E.  The four Vahalkadas around the stupa help support the weight of the structure. They are also used for flower offerings.  These altar-looking elements face the four entrances to the upper terrace. Their locations are based on the four cardinal points.  Several Kings renovated the stupa.  Apparently, the current structure is 20-feet shorter than the original one.

Lankathilaka Pilimage (Image House)

Buddhists build image houses for personal prayers and contemplation.  Lankathilaka Image House is one of three Gedige-type buildings in Polonnaruwa, with a vaulted ceiling which fell long ago.  The building was constructed in the 12^th century C.E. and later renovated in the 13^th century C.E.  Originally, the massive brick structure may have been 5 stories high.  Existing pillars by the entrance are now 58-feet tall. The structure is part of the Alahana Pirivena Monastic Complex.

The main feature of the Image House is an imposing standing Buddha. The statue was built against the rear wall, directly across from the main entrance.  Its scale is still impressive even though it has been partially destroyed.  The exterior walls, entrance stone balustrades and guard stones contain beautiful intricate carvings.  Walking into what remains of the space gives you a sense of how grand and magnificent the building must have been.

Gal Viharaya

This rock temple features four statues of Buddha carved onto the face of a granite gneiss rock.  It is one of the most visited sites by both tourists and locals .  The temple dates to the 12^th century, C.E.  These statues are some of the best examples of sculpting arts from the ancient Sinhalese civilization.  The temple has one smaller seated Buddha inside a man-made cave and three large scale impressive statues facing an open terrace – one reclining, one seating and one standing.  The reclining Buddha is over 46-feet long and the standing one is almost 23-feet tall.  Supposedly, each pose represents a different stage of Buddha’s life. 

The natural beauty of the distinct banding of the gneiss granite rock enhances their delicate features.  Scholars believe that King Parkramabahu I gathered a congregation of monks to reconcile the three Buddhist priesthood fraternities that existed at the time.

Giritale Lake

In the 12^th Century C.E., King Agbo II built the reservoir known as Giritale Lake.  This was the deepest lake in Polonnaruwa.  An extensive irrigation system provides water to  the rice paddies in the area.  We drove by the lake on our way from Sigiriya to Polonnaruwa.  And much to our surprise, we came across this magnificent 12-meter (39 feet) high standing Buddha.  It turned out that the statue is a replica of the Avukana (or Aukana) Buddha. The statue is located right on the edge of the lake.  So, if you don’t have a chance to visit the Avukana Ancient Rock Temple, you should stop here.  The carved details are just as amazing as the original statue.

Buddhism is very much in the fabric of Sri Lankan culture and daily routines.  As a result, there are invariably several shrines, small temples or deity statues along the roads. This Buddha is one of the biggest examples.  We didn’t quite understand the reason and its extent initially.  But then, we witnessed how drivers would pull over, get out of their cars or trucks, and pray.  This illustrates how Sri Lankans incorporate religious rituals into their daily lives.

Amazing Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa really shows the incredible development and ingenuity of the Sinhalese civilization and its heritage.  This is a destination that should be on the itinerary of anyone interested in Sri Lankan history.  These inspiring ancient grounds will transport you to a different era.  In one simple word – AMAZING.

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