Ouro Preto: A Journey Through Time and Art

Ouro Preto is one of Brazil’s most beautiful and well-known colonial cities.  Nestled amidst the rolling hills in the state of Minas Gerais, Ouro Preto’s windy cobblestone-paved streets, stunning baroque architecture, and rich history are straight out of the 18th century gold rush in Brazil.  The gold mines of the past make Ouro Preto a place where stories from yesteryears blend seamlessly with the vibrant energy of today.  In this travel guide, we invite you to embark on a journey, through Ouro Preto’s marvels, guided by its captivating fusion of art and history that characterizes this incredible destination.

Embrace the Past with Local Guides

We recommend engaging a local guide for at least a day tour.  These knowledgeable storytellers reveal hidden gems and untold stories that might otherwise escape notice.  Their narratives help bring the city’s history to life, making your visit an unforgettable experience.  We hired Marcelo, a native, who spoke English and took us on an informative journey through the city with him.  Another advantage was that he customized the itinerary by using our hotel’s location as the starting point.  The cost was R$250 for the day when we visited in February, 2023.

The Journey: Getting to Ouro Preto

Your adventure begins the moment you decide to venture into the heart of Brazil.  We started from Rio de Janeiro and took a flight to Belo Horizonte, the bustling capital of Minas Gerais.  (There are direct flights from several other cities in Brazil as well.)  From there, we rented a car and made our way south towards Ouro Preto.  The journey only takes 1 hour and 45 minutes on roads that are in great shape.  The car gave us the flexibility to drive around the city. It also allowed us to go on day trips to other nearby historic towns.

Echoes of the Past: Ouro Preto’s Golden History

Ouro Preto’s name, meaning “Black Gold,” harks back to the days of Brazil’s gold rush.  The abundant gold allowed for wealth, trade, and the arts to thrive in the inland region of Minas Gerais.  In the 18th century, this charming city was adorned with exquisite baroque churches.  The churches stand as living testimonials to the city’s golden age, showcasing artistic brilliance amid the simplicity of colonial life.  The city’s prominence was a result of its mining wealth under Portuguese colonial rule.  The entire city of Ouro Preto is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Nowadays, in addition to being a popular tourism destination, the city is home to a large number of university students.

Best Things to Do in Ouro Preto

We marveled at Ouro Preto’s iconic churches and historic sites, each with its own story to tell.  Walking around its narrow streets felt like walking in an outdoor museum.  Keep in mind that in the 18th century, churches become the canvas for masterpieces of the era.  And Ouro Preto boasts a wealth of churches that stand as living galleries of Brazil’s colonial artistry.  That explains why churches make up most of the tourist attractions in the city.

Given the city’s topography, don’t expect easy strolls down the streets.  Walking around this charming colonial city means that you will be walking up and down hills, mostly on cobblestone streets.  And some of them can be quite steep.  Make sure to wear comfortable shoes.

Following are the favorite spots we visited:

Praça Tiradentes (Tiradentes Square)

Praça Tiradentes, a square that breathes life into the nation’s struggle for independence, lies at the heart of Ouro Preto.  Here, in 1792, Tiradentes, a revered revolutionary, met his fate under the orders of the Portuguese Crown.  Today, this historic square stands as a testament to his sacrifice. The square is surrounded by colonial-era buildings that house a myriad of businesses.  The two of the square’s most imposing buildings are the Museu da Inconfidência (Museum of the Inconfidence), formerly the House of Chambers and Prison, and the Museu Mineralógico da Escola de Minas (Minerology Museum).

What makes Tiradentes Square truly special, however, is the vibrant history and atmosphere it exudes.  As you explore, you might encounter local tour guides, their eyes alight with passion for the city’s story.  One such guide, Marcelo, found us here, offering his expertise and transforming our visit into an informative journey.  Here, history is a living, breathing entity, waiting to be explored and embraced by every visitor.

Igreja São Francisco de Assis (Church of Saint Francis of Assisi)

The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi stands as an awe-inspiring testament to Brazil’s colonial artistry.  Commencing its construction in 1766, this architectural marvel seamlessly marries Baroque elegance with Rococo embellishments.  This church is not merely a historical relic. It’s a vibrant testament to artistic genius, bearing the mark of Aleijadinho, a luminary among Brazil’s sculptors.

Upon approaching its façade, one is greeted by a mesmerizing fusion of religious symbolism and artistic expression.  The sculptures adorn the church’s exterior, creating a perplexing composition of motion and emotion.  Inside, the church unfolds like a grand art gallery, where Aleijadinho’s bas-reliefs and gilded carvings adorn walls and columns.  Each figure etched by his hand tells a story, capturing scenes from religious texts with unparalleled vitality.

Yet, the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi is more than just Aleijadinho’s legacy.  It’s a canvas that various artists contributed to, shaping its character well into the late 19th century.  The ceiling of the nave, a masterpiece by Mestre Ataíde, one of Brazil’s foremost painters, adds another layer of artistic richness.  Its celestial piece adds to this sanctuary of art, where the past and present harmonize in a burst of creativity.  The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi stands as a beacon of Brazil’s artistic heritage.  Entry tickets cost R$7.00.

There is an outdoor market selling handicrafts across the street from the church.  This is a good stop for those wanting to purchase local mementos and inexpensive gifts.  Items made of soapstone is the specialty of this region.

Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar (Basilica of Our Lady of Pillar)

At the heart of what was once Vila Rica, the Parish of Pillar stood as a testament to the wealth and vitality of the region before it became Ouro Preto.  This prosperity manifested in the grandeur of Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar. It was a sanctuary born from the collective efforts of numerous confraternities in the late 17th century.  Initially erected in that era, the church was later reconstructed in 1731, transforming it into a lasting tribute to Brazil’s opulent past.  The church was elevated to a basilica in 2012.

This architectural jewel is among the most iconic relics of the Brazilian gold rush. The basilica is a prime example of the country’s Baroque architecture and sacred artistry.  Its facade, intricately adorned with carvings and embellishments, draws visitors into a world of art and religious devotion.  As you step inside, the interior unfolds like a vault of gold. Allegedly, an astonishing 434 kg of gold leaf adorns every corner, creating a perplexing visual spectacle.  Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar stands not just as a church, but as a living chronicle of Brazil’s golden age.  It allows visitors to marvel at the complexities of its past and the enduring allure of its Baroque splendor.

Igreja Nossa Senhora Efigênia (Church of Santa Efigenia)

Overlooking the city with a commanding view, the Church of Santa Efigênia is a living testament to perseverance and cultural fusion.  Constructed over five decades in the 1700s, this architectural marvel encapsulates the essence of Ouro Preto’s history.  Its ornate baroque interior, adorned with symbols of Afro-Brazilian heritage, tells a captivating tale of resilience and creativity.  Among these intricate decorations is a representation of a black Pope, a poignant nod to the amalgamation of cultures within the church’s walls.  Mainly slaves and blacks from the lower social class frequented this church.

According to local lore, the church’s conception was catalyzed by Chico Rei, a once-enslaved man who championed the initiative.  The story goes that ingenious slaves secretly extracted gold from mines, concealing their precious finds in their hair and nails. They then washed off the gold at the church’s site, using the hidden treasure to fund its construction. This blend of history, ingenuity, and culture is a symbol of Ouro Preto’s enduring spirit.

Igreja Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Church of Our Lady of Conception)

The Church of Our Lady of Conception is a testament to the grandeur of the 18th-century artistry in Ouro Preto.  Adorned with intricate spiral columns and elaborate carvings, it bursts with artistic brilliance that transports visitors back in time.  This church is a masterclass in sacred art and architecture, embodying the essence of three Baroque phases of Colonial Brazil.

In 1968, the church dedicated a space in its rear to house a small museum, paying tribute to the genius of Aleijadinho.  A sampling of his sculptures find a fitting home in this museum, showcasing his extraordinary talent and artistic evolution.  Moreover, both Aleijadinho and his father, Antonio Francisco Lisboa (a prominent artist of the 1700s) are buried here.

Mina de Ouro du Veloso (Veloso Gold Mine)

Descending into the depths of the Veloso Gold Mine is like stepping into the heart of Ouro Preto’s golden legacy.  The mine is a vivid picture of an era where the laborious efforts of enslaved Africans formed the bedrock of Brazil’s wealth.  Guided tours provide visitors with insight into the harsh realities faced by these miners during colonial times.

As you navigate the same paths once trodden by enslaved souls, the mine becomes a powerful catalyst for contemplation, sparking dialogues on race, ethnicity, identity, labor, exploration, and empowerment – topics profoundly relevant to today’s society.  The Veloso Gold Mine is a living lesson. It urges its visitors to reflect on the complexities of the past and the enduring lessons it holds for the present and the future.

Museu da Inconfidência

Located at Ouro Preto’s main square, the Museu da Inconfidência stands as a tribute to Brazil’s revolutionary past.  The Inconfidência Mineira, a fervent yet unsuccessful revolution, was birthed from the collective spirit of those seeking Brazil’s independence from Portuguese rule.  This movement unfolded against the backdrop of a declining gold mining industry. Miners grappled with economic hardships and daunting tax obligations.  As you explore the museum’s exhibits, a vivid tapestry of the 18th-century society and culture emerges, painting a picture of Brazil’s golden and diamond exploration era.  Wandering through the building, visitors will experience a journey that transcends time and unveils Brazil’s revolutionary spirit.

Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel)

Right off Tiradentes Square, the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo stands as a great example of Brazil’s Rococo heritage.  Commencing its construction in 1756 and spanning well into the early 19th century, this architectural gem blends artistic ingenuity and historical richness.  As you approach, your gaze is captured by the intricate soapstone carvings decorating the main entrance. It is a masterpiece attributed to the legendary sculptor Aleijadinho.

The church’s interior is composed of different parts designed by various artists, including Aleijadinho’s apprentices.  The main altar, a pinnacle of Rococo artistry in the Minas Gerais region, enchants with its delicate carvings and ornate details.  Exquisite Portuguese tiled panels adorn the lower portion of the main chapel walls. Over the years, the church complex expanded, giving rise to an annex building that now houses the Oratory Museum and the creation of a cemetery.  This church certainly has a place in the intricate composition of Ouro Preto’s history and the enduring allure of Rococo craftsmanship.

Igreja São Francisco de Paula (Church of St. Francis of Paula)

Perched atop a hill, the Igreja São Francisco de Paula is a latecomer to Ouro Preto’s architectural panorama, with tales of a changing era.  Erected in the 19th century, this church marked the final chapter of colonial construction in the city.  While its architectural roots lie in the Baroque and Rococo styles typical of Minas Gerais, the church’s adornments, once extravagant in the golden age, bear the subtle touch of restraint – a reflection, perhaps, of the waning gold mining fortunes of the time.

This church, with its unassuming elegance, commands attention from every corner of Ouro Preto.  Its strategic location offers a panoramic vista of the city, a kaleidoscope of terracotta rooftops and winding cobblestone streets.  As the sun descends, casting a warm glow upon the colonial facades, the churchyard becomes a sanctuary for travelers seeking a moment of tranquility.  Watching the sun set behind the historic hills from this vantage point is nothing short of magical.  Igreja São Francisco de Paula is more than a nod to architectural evolution; it’s a scenic oasis and a serene sunset haven.

Museu Casa dos Contos

In the heart of Ouro Preto, the Museu Casa dos Contos stands as an attestation to Brazil’s rich history, housed within a well-preserved colonial mansion.  Once the residence of a local official responsible for collecting taxes (known as “contos”), the museum itself is steeped in historical significance.  The museum’s charm lies not only in its exhibits but also in the ambiance of the house itself – original wooden beams, antique furniture, and a cobblestone courtyard transport you back to a bygone era.

Today, the building hosts a trio of captivating experiences under its roof.  Venture inside, and you’ll find the Currency and Tax Museum, an intriguing exploration of Brazil’s currency evolution.  There is also a Study Center dedicated to the research of the gold mining era.  And the first floor is used as an art gallery, where contemporary creativity mingles with the echoes of the past.  Yet, the museum’s allure isn’t confined to its upper levels.  Descending to the basement, visitors are confronted with a stark reminder of Brazil’s complex history – a preserved area where slaves were once kept.  For those looking for a moment of quiet, away from the steep Ouro Preto streets, there is a public garden adjacent to the property that can be accessed from a gate at the rear wall of the courtyard.

Morro São Sebastião Lookout

High above the enchanting city of Ouro Preto, the Morro São Sebastião Lookout offers a breathtaking view of the area.  From this vantage point, the entire city unfolds beneath your feet, with its colonial rooftops juxtaposed against the surrounding majestic mountains.  It’s like a scene straight out of a postcard.  The best time to visit is in the late afternoon, during sunset, when the sky ignites in a symphony of colors.

To reach the lookout, one must navigate a steep road that winds up the hill.  While the adventurous souls can opt for a hike, the wiser choice is to drive or take a taxi, ensuring you arrive ready to embrace the spectacle without the strain.  As you stand on Morro São Sebastião, you realize that this moment is more than just a sightseeing venture.  It’s a connection with the soul of Ouro Preto and an unforgettable memory of this charming colonial town.

Our Lodging in Ouro Preto

Hotel Solar das Lajes: Where Colonial Charm Meets Modern Comfort

Amidst historical Ouro Preto, Hotel Solar das Lajes emerges as a true gem for travelers seeking an authentic and serene experience.  Housed within a colonial building, this hotel blends the charm of the past with contemporary comfort.  Located at the top of a hill, the hotel offers panoramic views of the city.  It’s located away from the bustling tourist areas, yet remarkably close to the heart of the action.  Just a kilometer away from the iconic Tiradentes Square, the city’s bustling epicenter, Hotel Solar das Lajes combines convenience with tranquility.

The rooms are cozy, the facilities modern, and the staff exudes warmth and hospitality.  A delightful surprise awaits every morning as guests partake in a sumptuous buffet breakfast, featuring an array of options.  Among the offerings are regional delicacies like corn cake and Queijo Minas, a delectable raw cow’s milk cheese with a moist, spongy texture.

For those seeking relaxation, the hotel boasts an outdoor pool and a sauna, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration.  Additionally, the convenience of free parking on the premises adds to the overall ease of stay.  Without a doubt, this inviting retreat has carved a special place in our hearts, making it a definite choice for our future stays in this captivating city.

Our Favorite Restaurants in Ouro Preto

Restaurante Contos de Réis

Housed within an 18th-century mansion, Contos de Réis invites food enthusiasts on a captivating voyage into Brazil’s culinary legacy.  In the rustic charm of Ouro Preto, this restaurant becomes an instrument of the nation’s rich heritage.  From the skillfully prepared Local Sausage with Jiló, expertly masking the bitterness of the Brazilian squash, to the tender Braised Beef Ribs served alongside savory farofa and fried polenta, every dish embodies the essence of Minas Gerais cuisine.  The star, Tutu a Mineira, a regional specialty of puréed black beans thickened with manioc flour, pays homage to Brazil’s culinary traditions.  The culinary odyssey culminates with the exquisite Jabuticaba Ice Cream, a vibrant berry-infused delight.

Each bite at Contos de Réis narrates a story, weaving together heritage and passion, making it a quintessential stop for those craving an authentic taste of Brazil’s gastronomic richness.

Restaurante O Passo

Nestled in the heart of Ouro Preto’s historic district, Restaurante O Passo emerges as a culinary sanctuary, where tradition harmonizes seamlessly with innovation.  Housed within an 18th-century mansion, its ambiance, as enchanting as its cuisine, captivates from the moment you step inside.

The journey begins with a symphony of Brazilian flavors: Queijo Coalho Grelhado, grilled curd cheese with molasses and caramelized bacon, and Pastéis de Angu, mini cornmeal empanadas with beef and tomato chutney, tantalize the palate.  The main courses, highlighted by Bacalhau da Vila‘s succulent codfish loin and Risotto com Costela, a creamy risotto with braised ribs, showcase the chef’s expertise.  Costela Alla Salvatore, shredded and pressed braised rib meat paired with creamy manioc purée and farofa, completes this gastronomic gem.  Dessert offers a grand finale – a medley of textures and flavors in São Bartolomeu, guava paste encased in cashew nut crust, paired with artisanal cheese ice cream, and a luscious Cream Caramel Flan.  Restaurante O Passo is more than a meal; it’s a testament to Brazil’s diverse flavors.

Restaurante Sebastião

Our culinary journey in Ouro Preto continued at Restaurante Sebastião with its brilliant cuisine, effortlessly blending tradition, and innovation.  Nestled in a colonial building near Tiradentes Square, this hidden gem elevated our dining experience to an art form.  Beginning with the tantalizing Bolinho de Mandioca, a manioc beignet paired with beef ragu and cheese sauce, every dish showcased the chef’s mastery.  The succulent Roasted Pork Loin, drizzled with jabuticaba and beer sauce over creamy risotto, melted in our mouths, leaving a lingering delight.  Dessert was a revelation—a heavenly Sorvete de Nata adorned with Doce de Leite and Goiabada (guava paste sweet), creating a symphony of flavors.

Beyond the gastronomic wonders, the warm staff and the exquisite caipirinhas, crafted with local cachaça, enhanced our evening.  The chef’s 3-course set menu, at R$100 per person, made this culinary adventure accessible. It transformed our dinner into a memorable gastronomic journey that celebrated Ouro Preto’s culinary excellence with finesse and creativity.

Restaurante Seu José

In the heart of Ouro Preto, Restaurante Seu José emerged as the epitome of gastronomic excellence. Its chef weaves together innovation and tradition in a harmonious dance of flavors.  Housed within a restored colonial building, the restaurant’s open kitchen concept added an element of excitement to our dining experience.  Settling on the outdoor terrace, we embarked on a culinary odyssey. It began with Jiló Tempura and Grilled Shrimp with Hibiscus Powder, each dish a testament to the chef’s inventive brilliance.  The main courses, from Shredded Braised Cupim (beef hump from the Brazilian Zebu cattle) with molasses sauce to Risotto de Bacalhau with poached egg and olive tapenade, were exquisite examples of culinary finesse.

However, it was the Doce de Leite Petit Gateau, a warm molten cake paired with ‘Ninho Milk’ ice cream, that left an indelible mark, epitomizing Seu José’s dedication to crafting memorable, artful dishes.  Every bite at Restaurante Seu José was a celebration of Brazil’s culinary heritage, expertly blended with contemporary creativity, leaving us with cherished memories of Ouro Preto’s culinary brilliance.

In the Heart of Heritage: Ouro Preto Unveiled

Our sojourn through the cobbled streets and storied churches of Ouro Preto was nothing short of enchanting.  This historic gem, a witness to Brazil’s colonial past, revealed its soul through ornate churches, hidden culinary havens, and the warm embrace of its people.  Brazil’s rich heritage echoed in every dish savored and every cobblestone trodden.  Our time here allowed us to capture a vivid picture of Ouro Preto’s allure.  As we bid adieu to this charming town, its history, culture, and culinary treasures became embossed in our memories.  Ouro Preto, with its timeless charm, remains not just a destination, but a lasting chapter in our travel tale.

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