Newport is delightful and a great destination despite the pandemic. With a wealth of wonderful attractions, activities, restaurants, and places to stay, Newport offers something special for everyone, much of which is world-class. And, although a packed-filled 3 days barely scratches the surface of all that this marvelous town offers, it should be enough time to get a good taste of Newport’s exceptionality. Newport was the perfect summer destination to satisfy our craving for a respite from the coronavirus travel restrictions.
- Brief History of Newport
- Day 1 – Morning
- Day 1 – Lunch
- Day 1 – Afternoon
- Day 1 – Happy Hour
- Day 1 – Dinner
- Day 2 – Breakfast
- Day 2 – Morning and Afternoon
- Day 2 – Lunch
- Day 2 – Afternoon Drinks
- Day 2 – Dinner
- Day 3 – Breakfast
- Day 3 – Morning
- Day 3 – Lunch
- Day 3 – Afternoon
- Day 3 – Dinner
- Other Activities
Brief History of Newport
Founded in 1639 by a group of religious refuges who had settled the nearby town of Portsmouth, Newport is one of the first secular democracies in the new world. Soon thereafter, Newport became a prosperous seaport in colonial America, thriving in the trade of rum, molasses and slaves, between New England, the West Indies and Africa. The founders’ commitment to religious freedom is seen throughout Newport, reflecting the historical presence of Quakers, Baptists, and Jews.
Newport’s prominence diminished after the Revolutionary War, and as a result, its decline preserved much of the colonial city that we see today. After the Civil War, during the Gilded Age, Newport reinvented itself as a lavish summer resort (“Queen of the Resorts”) for wealthy elites who constructed extravagant summer “cottages” in prime locations by the water. Today, Newport’s history is very much on display and well preserved. Don’t let its historical importance fool you. The town is very much alive today.
Day 1 – Morning
Stroll Through Newport – Soak in the Atmosphere
After checking into your hotel (we highly recommend the Frances Malbone House – discussed in detail below), venture onto Thames Street and get your bearings. Newport is very compact and the downtown is easy and fun to explore on foot. Thames Street is the main commercial artery in Newport and is parallel to the water.
The very south part of Thames Street (where it meets Wellington Ave.) is a bit quieter and less touristy than the north end. Both parts have a lot to see – galleries, interesting shops, restaurants and cafes, studios, hotels, churches, and some lovely colonial architecture. Make sure to wander off Newport’s main drag – – west towards the water and onto the various wharfs and marinas, and east onto the charming residential and commercial streets. Spring Street, which runs parallel to Thames Street, also has an abundance of interesting shops, restaurants, and architecture.
Thames Street turns into America’s Cup Ave, which has even more commercial activity, including Long Wharf with its vast array of shops, hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions. From there, be sure to venture east onto Touro Street, Washington Street, Church Street, and Eisenhower Park. Meander through the smaller connecting streets to get a good feel for colonial Newport. This is the oldest part of town. Many of Newport’s buildings have signs indicating the original owner and the date of construction. Better yet, some even contain a few paragraphs describing their history.
Walking Tours . . .
On Fridays and Saturdays from June to October, the Newport Historical Society offers a variety of 60 minute socially-distant walking tours. The tours cover everything from “People of the Past” (the people who helped shape Newport) to the “British Occupation” (for nearly 3 years). Tickets can be purchased online. Most tours are at 11AM or 4PM and cost $15. The website also has an excellent self-guided tour map.
If you prefer not to explore Newport by foot, you could hop on a Trolley to discover the town. In addition to the trolley tour companies, there are other options to get around.
Day 1 – Lunch
Indulge in a Lobster Roll While Experiencing Newport
Because you are in New England, you should indulge in a lobster roll. Fortunately, Newport has several places that offers them. For a full sit-down lunch, the Lobster Bar, downtown on Bowen’s Wharf, provides great views and a good selection of lobster-centric items. In addition, the Mooring, also downtown on Newport’s waterfront, has great water views and an extensive seafood menu. On the other hand, if you are looking for something less formal, the Newport Lobster Shack serves a variety of lobster and seafood dishes. You can eat at the outdoor picnic tables while appreciating the harbor views.
Day 1 – Afternoon
Explore Newport’s Wonderful Museums
Unfortunately, when we were in Newport, due to COVID, several of its topnotch museums were closed. Now, they have reopened. Here are a few to check out:
1. Museum of Newport History
Don’t miss the Museum of Newport History, which has some fascinating artifacts and will give you a good sense of Newport throughout the ages. (The Museum’s website offers an excellent virtual tour too.)
2. International Tennis Hall of Fame
If you’re a tennis fan, the International Tennis Hall of Fame is mandatory. It is set in the Newport Casino, a National Historic Landmark. The casino opened on July 26, 1880 as a social club for Newport’s turn of the century summer elite. In 1881, the Newport Casino held the first tennis tournament that evolved into the US Open. The building and grounds are gorgeous and the exhibit is exceptional.
3. Newport’s National Museum of American Illustration
Set in a lovely mansion, the National Museum of American Illustration is an expansive gallery with multiple exhibits. Its archives contain a large collection of American illustrators, including Norman Rockwell and Maxfield Parrish. Unfortunately, during our time in Newport, it was closed. Its website, which includes a virtual tour and a comprehensive discussion of its collection and artists, is terrific.
4. Audrain Automobile Museum
One of our favorite Newport museums is the Audrain Automobile Museum. The museum is housed on the ground floor of a beautiful, architecturally significant commercial building (the Audrain Building). With access to collections containing over 350 cars and motorcycles, the Audrain Museum mounts 3 or 4 exhibits a year showcasing a few dozen vehicles at a time. Its exhibits are well curated, interesting, and informative. During our visit they had an exhibit on the history of headlights. Don’t miss it!
Take a Spin on Newport’s Famous 10-Mile Ocean Drive
“The Drive” will give you an excellence appreciation of Newport’s surroundings. You’ll take in Newport’s gorgeous beaches and state parks, see some of her famous Mansions, and learn the lay of the land. In addition, be certain to stop along the way to take in some of the breathtaking scenery – – and take photos of course.
Day 1 – Happy Hour
Savor Cocktails and the View at Castle Hill Inn
The lawn at the Castle Hill Inn is a Newport icon offering a bit of heaven by the sea. Overlooking the bay, the lawn of the Castle Hill Inn boasts a stunning setting and drinks worthy of such splendid ambiance. On a lovely evening as the sun sets, sip a blood orange Bellini on the patio or in one of the Inn’s Adirondack chairs and watch nautical Newport gracefully sail by. True, it’s a bit pricey but the exceptional views and atmosphere are worth every penny.
Day 1 – Dinner
Indulge in Newport’s Top-Notch Seafood and the Romantic Atmosphere at The Clarke Cooke House
Without question, Newport has some wonderful restaurants. For our first night, we sought a place steeped in Newport tradition. It had to have an atmosphere that exemplifies Newport’s reputation as a historical seaport and serve great food. Indeed, the Clarke Cooke House fit the bill. Housed in a 1780 structure added to the National Register of Historic Places, the building was moved from Thames Street to Bannister’s Wharf in the heart of downtown. It’s a beautiful space.
Usually, Clarke Cooke has several dining options – – the upscale, more formal summer porch, the less formal Candy Store lounge, and the Boom Boom Room. Because of COVID, the restaurant offered the same menu throughout its entire space. We dined upstairs on the porch under a yellow and white striped canopy boarded by white trellises. The setting is very romantic and sophisticated and even with COVID restaurant restrictions, the place felt lively, but safe. The food and drinks were consistently first-rate, especially our seafood dishes, and service was attentive and welcoming. It is a perfect introduction to Newport.
Day 2 – Breakfast
The Best Guest Breakfast in Newport
Guests at the Francis Malbone House are able to enjoy a lovely, full breakfast in its lush interior courtyard. Its buffet of homemade baked goods (scones, muffins, breads, croissants), granola, yogurt parfaits, and fruit is delicious and delightful. In addition, its breakfast features two main courses rotated daily such as eggs Florentine, a mushroom and brie omelet, mixed berry crepes, huevos rancheros, and ricotta pancakes. Everything was fresh, plentiful, and delicious.
We did not venture outside of the hotel for breakfast, but Newport has some enticing breakfast places. Belle’s Café on the waterfront looked fabulous and has an extensive breakfast menu. Likewise, the Corner Café comes highly recommended, is really cute, and has a great breakfast menu. And, if you want something a little lighter, stop by the Coffee Grinder on Bowen’s Wharf.
Day 2 – Morning and Afternoon
Invoke the Grandeur of Newport’s Gilded Age
Do not miss visiting Newport’s mansions. Everything that you heard about them is true. They are opulent, decadent, imposing, excessive, and fascinating. And, be certain to plan ahead and make sufficient time to explore them. We recommend spending a full day touring the buildings and their grounds.
Brief History of the Mansions of Newport
Constructed principally between 1850 and 1900, the mansions, a/k/a “cottages”, wealthy industrialists (mostly from New York and Philadelphia) built the mansions in Newport to escape the hustle and heat of the city during the summer. Typically, they occupied their cottages for less than 8 weeks each year. Built primarily along Bellevue Ave., the mansions became grander and more opulent as the era progressed. Their opulence culminated with the construction of the Breakers, the most majestic of all the Newport mansions.
The Fall of Newport’s Gilded Age . . .
Interestingly, the Gilded Age of the Newport mansions did not last long. Between 1910 and 1920, the government imposed two significant taxes for the first time. In 1913, the government introduced income tax and in 1916, it imposed estate tax. Many of the wealthy families no longer had unlimited funds to run these massive structures. Moreover, after WWI, lifestyles changed and domestic service started to decline. Eventually, many of the houses transitioned away from residence and into museums. Some families arranged rights to reside in a portion of their house. (Some of those rights still exist.) Check here for some interesting insights into the decline of the Gilded Age mansions.
In the 1960s, the Preservation Society of Newport began purchasing mansions thereby saving some of them from destruction. Today, it owns 11 of them.
Touring the Newport Mansions
It is essential to visit the website of the Preservation Society of Newport to plan your visit – – purchase tickets for admission, arrange for tours (private, group, or audio/self-guided) and learn about special events and exhibits. You can even take virtual tours of the mansions before your visit. Overall, this excellent website will give you a good sense of the opulence, significance, and history of Newport’s mansions.
Due to COVID, only two of the Newport Preservation Society’s mansions were opened – the Elms and the Breakers. (The Preservation Society does not own Rough Point.) We highly recommend seeing the Elms and taking its Servant’s Life Tour in the morning and then visiting the Breakers and Rough Point in the afternoon. In addition, allow a couple of hours to wonder around the interiors and exteriors of each place. Be sure to check the Preservation Society’s website for operating schedules (as of today, open daily). All tours were by audio, through a free Newport Mansions App on your phone. The Servant’s Life Tour is by a live guide and limited to a small group. Be certain to bring your smartphone and ear-sets so you can enjoy the audio tours.
The Elms
Completed in 1901 at an estimated cost of $1.4M, the Elms was the summer residence of Edwin Berwind, a wealthy coal industrialist from Philadelphia. Berwind modeled the house after a mid-18th century French chateau. The extensive classical revival gardens are especially noteworthy, although the entire mansion is exquisite and what you would expect to see in Newport.
It is especially amusing to hear about the Elm’s state-of-the-art conveniences that Berwind installed (e.g., it is the first house in America to be wired for electricity and have an electrical icemaker). As well as stories about the Berwind family, especially Mr. Berwind’s sister who lived in the Elms until her death in 1961. Apparently she was known for her daily brazen drives around Newport in one of her luxury cars.
The Servants’ Life Tour at the Elms
Be sure to plan ahead and purchase tickets for this fascinating and entertaining tour. The Newport Preservation Society offers four tours daily, limited in size and very popular. It is captivating to learn about the undertakings behind the glamourous exterior (i.e., cleaning, cooking, serving, utilities) and to hear about the people who ran the house. The Elms is one of the few mansions that has maintained substantial information about the servants over the years. For instance, approximately 40 servants ran the household and most of them traveled with the Berwinds between their homes in New York City and Newport. Also, the tour includes a visit to the roof, which has a spectacular view of Newport.
The Grand Cottage of Newport – The Breakers
The Breakers, the summer home of Cornelius Vanderbilt, is the grandest of all the summer cottages. The structure was constructed between 1892 and 1897 in the Italian Renaissance style on a spectacular plot of land.
Mr. Vanderbilt spared no expense – – gold leaf paint, platinum wall panels, Spanish leather walls, rare woods and mosaics, and magnificent marble. Whether you love it or hate it, the Breakers is unforgettable. This property will certainly give you an incomparable picture of the wealth and excesses of the era.
Rough Point Estate and Museum
Slightly less ostentatious (but still very grand) and providing greater insight into its owner Doris Duke, Rough Point is fascinating. Apparently, Duke claimed Rough Point as her favorite private retreat and left instructions in her will for the public to enjoy it as a museum.
Except for a couple of rooms on the second floor which display Doris’s clothes and life story, the Rough Point Museum is pretty much as Duke left it at the time of her death. Consequently, the focus on this mansion’s inhabitant sets it apart from the other Newport mansions and makes it come alive. The uniqueness of this tour makes it a Newport must-do.
Day 2 – Lunch
A Casual Meal on the Go
Flo’s Clam Shack in nearby Middleton has been serving fresh seafood for 80 years and offers a quintessential New England experience. It’s about 2 miles from the Breakers – a 10-minute drive or a 30-minute walk. Or, for plump, juicy luscious burgers, hot dogs, and hand-cut fries, check out Mission, also in Middleton.
Day 2 – Afternoon Drinks
A Sunset Cocktail – Newport Style
The rooftop deck at the Vanderbilt Hotel is lovely and offers great drinks and an incomparable view of Newport’s harbor. It’s a marvelous spot to enjoy a sunset.
Day 2 – Dinner
Dinner in a Hip Newport Neighborhood
Definitely soak in some local Newport flavor by hitting one of the first-rate restaurants on Broadway, a 10-minute walk from the downtown harbor area. The neighborhood is hipper and more eclectic than the downtown. And it offers a glimpse of a different (and in our opinion, more interesting) side of Newport. Besides, you see more locals than tourists in this area. Because of its large outdoor patio and fun menu, we decided to eat at the Fifth Element. It turned out to be a very good choice. The casual atmosphere was edgy (as much as it can be in Newport) and the food was well executed, tasty, and appealing. Its cocktail menu, extensive and well thought out, had something for everyone on it. If you want to dine outside, be certain to reserve in advance and request a table in the “Outer Element”.
Although we did not eat there, Salvation Café looked very tempting. Likewise, Norey’s and Caleb & Broad looked like fun, had interesting menus, and had the locals’ stamp of approval.
Day 3 – Breakfast
Start the Day with a Savory Fare
If you are fortunate enough to have booked a room at the Francis Malbone House, then enjoy another one of its luscious breakfasts. If not, the Atlantic Grill (“the Grill”) in Middleton offers a great breakfast menu at reasonable prices and locals love it. Its lunch and dinner menus look great too.
Day 3 – Morning
Newport’s Cliff Walk – Breathtaking Ocean Views and Glorious Mansions
The Cliff Walk is another Newport essential. Basically, its 3.5-mile trail that runs along Newport’s eastern shore, with the ocean on one side and the mansions on the other, combining the magnificence of Newport’s shoreline with the splendor of the Gilded Age mansions. It is an incomparable Newport experience.
While never treacherous, at times it was a bit challenging although most of it was very easy. Once the paved path ends, you will have to climb many rocks to complete your walk. The path starts at the western end of Easton’s or First Beach at Memorial Blvd. and runs south with major exits at Narragansett Ave., Webster St., Sheppard Ave., Ruggles Ave., Marine Ave., and Ledge Rd. It ends at Bellevue Ave. at the east end of Bailey’s Beach (locally referred to as Reject’s Beach).
You don’t, however, need to walk the entire distance. We recommend parking your car at Narragansett Ave. where you can enter Cliff Walk and walk south towards Rough Point. There are 5 unique sections to Cliff Walk. Section 2, which is from Narragansett Ave. to Ruggles Ave., will give you a good sense of Cliff Walk and you’ll see some dazzling mansions along the way, including the Breakers. Be warned – if you choose to go further, there is not an exit until the very end, at the tip of Bellevue Ave. From there, you can hop on a trolley to take you back to Narragansett Ave. Otherwise, it’s almost a 2-mile hike.
Regardless of how much of Cliff Walk you take, you’ll be rewarded with an unforgettable experience. You can get detailed information here. And this map will be very helpful as well.
Day 3 – Lunch
Eat at a Friendly and Hip Newport Café
We really enjoyed the Cru Café, which has a great breakfast and lunch menu. Its casual, hip, and fun. We had stopped there for a coffee break and snack in the late afternoon and really enjoyed its casual atmosphere and good food. Moreover, its lunch menu looks intriguing and locals highly recommend it.
Day 3 – Afternoon
Venture into the Newport Harbor
Newport’s existence has always been tied to the sea and boating. It continues to be an essential part of life there. In fact, considered one of the sailing capitals of the world, Newport is home to the largest fleet of America’s Cup 12 Meters in the world, most of which are available for charter. In addition, between 1930 and 1983, Newport hosted the legendary America’s Cup yacht race. Today, its race calendar still draws competitive sailors all summer long.
To fully experience Newport, you must get off the land and onto the water. It is especially captivating to observe the variety of striking boats and all the sailing activity. And, it is quite special to witness the coastal views from the water. The setting is sublime. We were fortunate enough to have a friend living in Newport who hosted us on his boat. He was an excellent tour guide and gave us a memorable Newport experience.
Find a way to enjoy nautical Newport. Discover Newport lists a wide range of activities on the water at all prices. And here is a helpful compilation of Newport’s sailing offerings from New England Today. Moreover, Fish’N Tales Adventures offers fabulous lobstering trips.
Day 3 – Dinner
Intriguing Dinner Options
Although we did not make it to the following Newport restaurants, these come highly recommended and have intriguing menus:
1. The White Horse Tavern
The White Horse Tavern is the oldest operating restaurant in the U.S., having served guests since 1673. How fabulous is that!
2. The Black Pearl
Enjoy the ocean breezes while savoring a great meal in their outdoor patio.
3. Bouchard
An exquisite French restaurant!
4. Fluke
A streamlined, Scandinavian inspired décor with an inspired seasonal menu.
5. Thames Street Kitchen
Small and fun, with a focus on local and seasonal ingredients.
We regret not having an opportunity to try these restaurants. If you do, please send us a note and let us know what you think.
Other Activities
There is so much to see and do in Newport that it is impossible to do it all. Consider doing some of these activities in Newport if time permits:
1. Touro Synagogue
Built in 1763, this magnificent structure is the oldest synagogue building still standing in the US and the only surviving synagogue from the colonial era. Its history and the history of the Jews in Newport is fascinating. Unfortunately, we were unable to go inside the building because of COVID, but the synagogue congregation offers lectures and talks on its grounds. Highly recommended.
2. Belcourt of Newport
This recently renovated mansion is highly recommended.
3. Hike Sachuest Point
This National Wildlife Refuge provides an important stopover and wintering area for migratory birds.
4. Explore the Norman Bird Sanctuary
This is a nonprofit wildlife sanctuary and environmental education center
with acres of diverse habitats and 7 miles of hiking trails.
5. Sweet Berry Farm
Pick berries and then stay for lunch or enjoy its homemade ice cream.
6. Redwood Library & Athenaeum
The Redwood Library is the oldest library in the US that is still in its original structure, a magnificent Georgian building.
