The Skeleton Coast of Namibia, which stretches 500 kilometers from Swakopmund to the Angolan border, stands out sharply from the rest of the nation’s coastline. Huge sand dunes, shipwrecks littered along the shore, and little sign of civilization define this barren area. The southern region is comprised of salt and gravel plains, as soft sands dominate the landscape and are punctuated with rocky outcrops. Surprisingly, a diversity of fauna lives here despite the hostile and severe environment.
The presence of the cold Benguela Current creates dense fog shrouding the coast throughout much of the year. This fog is a vital source of moisture for desert life. However, the treacherous combination of fog and rocky offshore formations has claimed numerous ships over centuries, lending the region its evocative name. Remnants of animal bones scattered across the landscape further contribute to the eerie ambiance. A significant portion of the Skeleton Coast is nowadays part of the Skeleton Coast National Park, with its northern half designated as a wilderness area.
Inland, along the riverbeds, a remarkable array of wildlife finds a way to survive in this unforgiving environment – – from baboons and giraffes to lions, black rhinos, hyenas, and antelope species such as gemsboks and springboks. These creatures adapt and migrate in search of sustenance as the rivers dwindle during the dry season. (May to October) However, tracking these elusive animals becomes a challenge during this time. With its extraordinary geography and bleak environmental conditions, the Skeleton Coast feels like the edge of the earth – a captivating and mysterious landscape that beckons the intrepid traveler.
Swakopmund – the Southern Tip of the Skeleton Coast
The largest town along Namibia’s Atlantic coastline, Swakomund captivates visitors with its unique blend of coastal charm and desert beauty. This beach resort town is uniquely located at the southern end of the Skeleton Coast and on the edge of the vast Namib Desert. Swakopmund serves as the fourth largest population center in Namibia. Its origins trace back to 1892 when it was established as the primary harbor for German South West Africa. This lead to the presence of German colonial architecture that still adorns the town today.
Named after the Swakop River, Swakopmund is a fascinating juxtaposition of beach and desert landscapes. With the Namib Desert enveloping the town on three sides, it enjoys a desert climate characterized by mild conditions throughout the year. The fusion of sandy shores and sweeping dunes provides a picturesque backdrop for outdoor activities and adventures, attracting both locals and tourists alike.
In addition to its natural splendor, Swakopmund offers a vibrant atmosphere with a range of amenities and attractions. Visitors can explore the town’s quaint streets lined with colonial buildings, browse through local markets and shops, or indulge in a wide array of dining options featuring fresh seafood delicacies. Thrill-seekers can embark on adrenaline-pumping activities such as quad biking, sandboarding, and skydiving. Visitors can also hop onboard scenic flights for a magical view of the Skeleton Coast from the air. Swakopmund is truly a destination that seamlessly blends history, nature, and adventure, making it a must-visit highlight along Namibia’s impressive Atlantic coastline.
Getting to the Coast
This destination was included in our self-drive itinerary in Namibia. After visiting Sossusvlei, we headed towards the coast. As we drove west, we were struck by the incredible landscapes of the Namib Naukluft National Park. The desert scenery was ever-changing, and we were particularly amazed by the dramatic Gaub and Kuiseb Canyons. It was clear that Namibia had an endless supply of natural wonder to show us.
As we arrived at the coast, we encountered the port town of Walvis Bay. Next, we moved northward towards Swakopmund, our next stop. After our travels in the desert, this charming beach town was the ideal spot to relax. The cool sea breeze was a refreshing change from the dry desert. We were curious to check out the town’s German colonial architecture and eat some seafood at one of the local restaurants. Everything had been going according to plan, so we were eager to find out what other surprises Namibia had in store for us.
The best way to get to Swakopmund is by road. The nearest airport is Walvis Bay Airport, which is approximately 35 km away. So, you still need to make arrangements for a transfer to Swakopmund. Small charter planes can also fly directly to the Swakopmund Municipal Aerodrome.
Chilling at the Strand
The Strand Hotel, our home during our visit to Swakopmund, was luxurious and welcoming. Situated on a picturesque peninsula where the Namib dunes meet the Atlantic, the hotel offered a perfect blend of modern and coastal vibes. With plenty of dining options and libations, we enjoyed everything from cocktails on the terrace of the Welwitschia Lounge to sushi at the Ocean Cellar. We especially appreciated the breathtaking sea views from our room, which boasted a contemporary and comfortable design. The hotel’s promenade and jetty were great for leisurely strolling and taking in the fresh coastal air. All in all, the Strand Hotel was the perfect place to recharge before tackling our adventures in the Skeleton Coast.
Getting About Town
During our stay in Swakopmund, we explored the town’s beautiful colonial buildings and waterfront. We visited a local crafts market and several African art shops where we were delighted by the intricate designs of the handmade products. The Swakopmund Museum is a popular stop to learn about the flora, wildlife, ecology, nearby tribal areas, and the old colonial days. As we strolled through the town, we also observed a large flock of Helmeted Guineafowl at the main square.
The Swakopmund Jetty is a great spot with beautiful views; it’s a very romantic place during sunset. Since we were in the area, we headed to the Jetty 1905 Restaurant (located at the end of the jetty which was built in 1905) for a delicious dinner, which was the perfect end to our day. The seafood chowder and grilled Kabeljou (a local fish) with mussels, calamari, and prawns were outstanding, and the ambiance of the restaurant overlooking the ocean was enchanting.
Seafood Delight
Our final dinner in Swakopmund was at The Tug, a popular local restaurant known for its seafood. We couldn’t resist trying their Moroccan Monkfish, which was served with lentils and mashed potatoes. The dish was bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection. We also enjoyed the grilled Kingklip, accompanied by a creamy cauliflower mash and tangy tartare sauce. For dessert, we opted for the Namaklava, a Namibian version of the classic Baklava. The pastry was flaky and light, filled with nuts and honey, and topped with a scoop of yogurt ice cream. The meal was a delicious way to end our time in Swakopmund.
Sandwich Harbour
The following morning, we set off on a thrilling journey with an expert tour guide from “Amazing 5 Tours” to discover the enormous sand dunes at Sandwich Harbour. We were enamored with the flamingos swarming the area as we traveled past Walvis Bay’s salt flats. It was electrifying to ride our 4×4 SUV along the coastline where we encountered Cape Fur seals, ostriches, and other sea birds.
We reached enormous white dunes after driving for a bit – Sandwich Harbour is approximately 44 km south of Walvis Bay. At that point, our skilled driver-guide led us on a thrilling ride up and down the steep slopes, providing us with an unforgettable gripping and adrenaline-filled experience. The views from the top of the monumental dunes were simply breathtaking.
A Skeleton Coast Scenic Flight
Another highlight of our visit to Swakopmund was flying with Scenic Air over the Diamond Coast. Spectacular! We were picked up at our hotel and driven to the Swakopmund Municipal Aerodrome, where we boarded a small private plane. As we soared high above the stunning landscapes, we were treated to a bird’s eye view of the surrounding areas, including Walvis Bay, the Kuiseb River, and the abandoned German Diamond Camps (Charlottenfelder). We also saw the Edouard Bohlen and Shawne shipwrecks, colonies of fur seals, radiant pink salt pans and their flamingos. The flight lasted 1.5 hours, and it was an ideal way to take in the beauty of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast from a completely different perspective.
The Cape Fur Seal Colony
After breakfast, we resumed our journey towards the Skeleton Coast. We couldn’t resist taking a detour to the Cape Cross Seal Reserve, which is known as the largest breeding colony of Cape fur seals along the Namib coast. The population of seals in the area can exceed 100,000, attracted by the nutrient rich Benguela Current that brings an abundance of fish to the shore.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by the overwhelming noise of the seals and overpowering smell of their poop. Despite the stench, we were eager to explore the area. Walking on a raised walkway, we got a fantastic view of the seals and their intriguing antics. It was captivating to observe the seals basking in the sun, nursing their young, and engaging in playful fights. The Cape Cross Seal Reserve is an extraordinary display of nature’s wonders and undoubtedly worth the short detour from our journey’s path.
The Wild, Magnificent Desert Coast
The vast and remote Skeleton Coast is a section of coastline in Namibia’s northwest. It is an incredible and unusual piece of African wilderness. This desolate area is renowned for its perilous waterways, harsh desert environments, and the wreckage of several ships over the years. Sailors who traversed this perilous area nicknamed it the “Skeleton Coast” because countless vessels perished there over time. It is a rugged, beautiful area where the desert meets the sea. Seals, jackals, hyenas, and even desert adapted elephants call this place home. Even though the Skeleton Coast is not an easy region to explore, it provides visitors an extraordinary experience unlike any other, immersing travelers into a world of unadulterated natural beauty. It is unforgettable.
Getting to the Skeleton Coast
We traveled north along the coast from Cape Cross towards the Skeleton Coast National Park. Although the 6-hour drive was arduous and lengthy, the scenery was breathtaking. The barren and desolate landscape felt like we were the only drivers for miles.
Mesmerizing sand dunes and rock formations lined the roadway in the rugged, rough surroundings. The unusual beauty of the environment (despite the harsh conditions) was strange and breathtaking. The driving was challenging due to the shifting sands on the road, and our GPS was ineffective due to the lack of signals in the area. Glimpses of the ocean on our left gave us confidence that we were moving in the right direction.
Eventually we made it to Möwe Bay, where our lodge guide was waiting for us. The lodge is situated in an isolated region of the northern Skeleton Coast with no roads leading there. We left our car in Möwe Bay to get into a safari-style vehicle, which took us on a 1.5-hour ride along the shoreline and around the sand dunes. At times, we had to drive through areas with deep sand, making us understand why they required experienced drivers to maneuver around. It was a wild and unforgettable journey through the remote and stark beauty of the Skeleton Coast.
On Route to the Lodge
The ride to our lodge was unlike any other. We made several stops along the way, each one more fascinating than the last. Our first stop was Möwe Bay’s local Cape fur seal colony, which was an incredible sight to see and had an equally putrid smell as the one in Cape Cross.
Next, we visited the Seiderkus and Karamona shipwrecks. The Seiderkus was a fishing vessel that ran aground in 1976 and has since become a popular attraction. The Karamona, on the other hand, was a diamond mining vessel that met its demise in 1978. It was surreal to see these worn-down vessels up close and to imagine the stories behind them. We also visited an old diamond mine area with abandoned equipment and a plane wreck, each providing a unique glimpse into the challenges of Namibia’s desert coast. The ride from Möwe Bay to our lodge was indeed eventful.
Our Lodge
The Shipwreck Lodge is an exceptional spot to stay while exploring the Skeleton Coast. There is no other place on the continent like it. Situated 45 kilometers from Möwe Bay between the Hoarusib and Hoanib rivers, it is one of only three luxury lodges in the Skeleton Coast National Park. The property has 10 exquisitely designed shipwreck-shaped cabins nestled in between wind-whipped dunes. And all of them provide an incredible panoramic view of the desert and the Atlantic Ocean.
The exterior architecture of the cabins is an inventive nod to the relics of the past. And, the interiors are nothing short of luxurious. Each private cabin is plush and cozy, offering a perfect respite from the harsh surroundings. It was also wonderful to sit on our private deck and enjoy the serene, dramatic scenery. The largest “cabin” houses the restaurant and living area. This is the perfect spot to enjoy evening drinks before dinner time and to reflect on the day’s adventures in this incredible eco-system. This award-winning sustainable lodge employs an eco-friendly water and waste management system and solar power. This location is ideal for those who want to appreciate the harshness and isolation of the desert and the grandeur of the austere surrounding landscapes.
The Shipwreck Meals
We loved the cuisine at the Shipwreck Lodge. The food was varied, delicious, and beautifully presented. The lodge had an excellent selection of champagne, wines, and cocktails, with gin and tonics being a popular choice. We enjoyed dishes such as carrot-orange soup, fillet of Kabeljou with creamy lemon caper sauce, roasted butternut purée, and chocolate Amarula cake. The combination of flavors and textures in each dish was outstanding, making every meal a culinary adventure. The food alone is worth a visit to this lodge.
Exploring the Harsh Skeleton Coast
Hoarusib River Safari and the Clay Castle Canyon
Our first full day at the Shipwreck Lodge was exhilarating, filled with a range of activities that showcased the remarkable natural wonders of the Skeleton Coast. It began with an early morning 4×4 safari excursion to explore the Hoarusib River. After driving to the top of towering dunes for a panoramic view of the area, we descended onto the dry riverbed. The river was completely arid, allowing us to drive through the stunning landscapes of the river valley. We spotted desert-adapted springboks, oryx, and baboons as we drove, each uniquely adapted to survive in this harsh environment.
We were in awe of the stunning scenery as we traveled further up the dry riverbed. It was fascinating to see the distinctive desert vegetation that survives in this severe environment. We took a break to explore desert oases and found undiscovered treasures tucked away among the dunes. The Clay Castle Canyon, a breathtaking site, was the excursion’s high point. The Hoarusib River’s flow formed the canyon’s spectacular cliff-like features over time. The beauty and magnificence of the natural environment are incomparable.
Sundowners by the Ocean
After returning to the lodge for lunch and a respite , we went on a late afternoon outing to the beach. Instead of taking the customary sundowner drive, we joined three other guests for a one-mile walk to the coastline. Our guide, Bodo, drove ahead of us to set up some refreshments. This allowed us to enjoy the hike while taking in the breathtaking scenery. We had fun going up and down the dunes and were able to appreciate, up close, the astonishing surroundings. Bodo had our snacks and drinks ready by the time we reached the beach. It was delightful sipping gin tonics while chatting about our day activities as we stood by the sea.
Our second sundowner, the following day, was another unforgettable experience. Bodo took us to his favorite part of the beach where we relaxed and unwound as we marveled at the stunning scenery around us. The spot he selected was sheltered from the wind. It made us feel at ease as we sipped our gin and tonics listening to the sound of the waves. We were grateful to appreciate the beauty of the area one last time before returning to the lodge for dinner.
Quad Biking on the Dunes
Adventures at the Shipwreck Lodge continued with a thrilling activity the following morning. We set out on an exhilarating quad biking tour of some nearby Skeleton Coast gigantic sand dunes. The height of the dunes was deceiving from a distance, but up close, their sheer size was awe-inspiring. The terrain was imposing, and some of the slopes were very steep, making our handling of the quad bikes very exciting. The views from the top were breathtaking, and the adrenaline rush was unmatched. This was an electrifying way to explore this desolate part of Namibia.
Lunch on the River Bed
After some down time following the quad biking, we were told unexpectedly that we were going on a mid-day safari drive. We were surprised since these drives typically take place early in the morning or later in the afternoon. But we were eager to go regardless. After all, we are always ready for a new adventure. Our guide took us on a 4×4 drive along the dry bed of the Hoarusib River and pointed out the wildlife along the way – birds, springboks, plants. Then, after a short time, we stumbled upon a surprise lunch set up by the lodge staff.
It was a surreal experience, dining in the desert wilderness surrounded by towering rock formations, where the river once flowed during the rainy season. However, we savored our meal while keeping an eye on the nearby Pied Crows, who were hoping to join us in our feast. The lunch was a wonderful, delicious surprise adding to our incredible adventures. In all, our experience in the Skeleton Coast and the Shipwreck Lodge was exceptional.
Check our blog post for general travel information and tips for self-driving in Namibia.
A Land of Awe and Wonder
The Skeleton Coast offers a profound sense of isolation and connection with nature. Its size and ruggedness are overwhelming and its strength and beauty are unforgettable. Whether tracking wildlife in the wilderness area or gazing at the haunting shipwrecks, every moment spent on the Skeleton Coast is filled with a sense of awe and wonder. It is extraordinary.
