Charming Milos turned out to be one of our favorite destinations in Greece. It has an astounding rugged coast, unforgettable beaches, crystal blue waters, ancient historical sites, and quaint villages. Located in the southwestern part of the Aegean Sea, this volcanic island is less touristy and more affordable than the more popular Santorini and Mykonos. This is a perfect destination to hike, sail, explore the coastline, and relax on the beaches while avoiding crowds.
The natural landscape in Milos is unique due to a large presence of minerals in its rocky formations. Buildings reflect the Cycladic architecture of white structures with bright hue trims, creating inviting colorful villages. Ancient sites remind us of its venerable history. The island is famous as the place where the Venus de Milo statue, currently displayed at the Louvre Museum in Paris, was found in 1820. The beaches are iconic and stunning. The food scene is awesome and extremely affordable. There is so much to do and to see in Milos that our four nights on the island didn’t feel like it was enough.
Arriving in Milos . . .
It is very easy to get to Milos. The island is served by an airport, with direct flights from Athens, and by the port in Adamas. We were in the middle of a Greek island-hopping holiday, so we traveled via ferry. Ferry service is extensive, with daily connections from the Piraeus Port in Athens or other islands.
We took the SeaJets ferry from Folegandros. The trip took only a little over an hour and it cost about €66. The same ferry company offers a trip from Athens to Milos for about €75. The trip can take between 2.5 to 3.5 hours, depending on the number of stops along the way. Ferryhopper is a great website for searches of ferries in Greece. Make sure to get your tickets ahead of time because the ferries can sell out during peak season. Our ferry was packed with people going to Milos and to other islands along the way.
Arriving by ferry at Adamas Port was also convenient for us because our hotel was only a few minutes away. The area around the port is vibrant, and filled with shops, bakeries, and restaurants. Once we dropped off our luggage, we just went down the street for some Souvlakis. We were also able to pick up our car at a rental car agency by the port.
Getting Around Milos . . .
Public buses are available in Milos, but their availability is not great. It is best to rent a car, scooter, or ATV to get around the island. That also maximizes your use of time and gives you a lot more flexibility. Since there were three of us traveling together, we opted to go with the car. Remember that an international driver’s license (and a passport) is required to rent a car, ATV, or scooter in Greece.
It is very easy to drive in Milos even though you must go onto dirt roads to reach certain areas. Parking was not a problem anywhere. Even when visiting the Plaka, where cars are not allowed, there was a huge parking lot by the entrance to the town. Having a car allowed us to make the best out of each day exploring the island and beach hopping.
There are several places to rent a car, ATV, or scooter; however, we made the mistake of not reserving a vehicle ahead of time. By the time we arrived in Milos, we didn’t have a lot of choices. We ended up renting our car from Thalassitra Travel Agency, right across from the Adamas Port. They had a better daily rate compared to others; we paid €55 per day for a Fiat Panda.
Exploring the Island . . .
Although our focus was mainly on the beaches, we thought there were a few sites worth visiting in Milos.
Milos Ancient Theatre
This Roman amphitheater is built into the hill near the village of Trypiti, overlooking the harbor of Klima. It is believed that the original building was used for theatrical productions and festivals during the Hellenistic Age, in the 3rd century BCE. The original theatre was destroyed by the Athenians and reconstructed by the Romans. The new building was made larger to accommodate up to 7,000 patrons. The stunning horseshoe-shaped marble structure is well preserved, and several components have been restored. The small portion of the theater that has been excavated (orchestra, stage, seven rows of seats), is still used for musical performances from time to time. Its current capacity is only 700 people. The site is impressive, and the view is mesmerizing.
Klima Village
Klima is one of the most colorful fishing villages in Greece. The tiny village has an iconic seaside strip of multi-colored houses right at Milos Bay. These whitewashed fishermen houses, called “syrmatas”, typically have a boat garage at the bottom and a living space above it. Nowadays, most of the houses have been converted to Airbnb’s, vacation homes or shops selling local crafts. This is probably the second most Instagrammable spot in Milos. (after Sarakiniko Beach). Klima is near the Milos Ancient Theatre and the Catacombs, so you can combine your visit with these other sites.
We visited in the late afternoon and stayed to watch one of the most stunning sunsets in the Aegean Sea. Astakas Café Restaurant is located at the end of the colorful strip of houses, right on the water. It is a perfect, popular location for drinks or an early meal during sunset. Get there early. Even though they have a large outdoor dining area, it fills up very quickly at this time of the day.
Milos Catacombs
This is an important monument from early Christianity in Greece, dating back to the 1st century CE. Christians first used this as a burial site, and later as a place of worship and refuge during their persecution by the Romans. The chambers and interconnecting hallways were discovered in 1844. Historians believe that the Milos Catacombs served as a graveyard for 7,000 – 8,000 Christians.
The underground network of labyrinths is a marvel of construction. Arches are carved out of the volcanic bedrock along caves and galleries, with niches used as the burial chambers. The catacombs are open to the public and guides conduct the visit. The entry fee is only €4. Visiting hours are Monday through Sunday from 9:00AM – 6:45PM; however, the site is closed on Tuesdays.
Milos Plaka
Plaka is the capital of Milos. This charming village has traditional Cycladic architecture, with whitewashed houses and brightly colored windows. It is located on a hilltop and has amazing sunset views. Part of the attraction here is to get lost in the labyrinth of narrow stone-paved alleyways that traverse the area. Cars are not allowed to enter the center; there is a huge parking lot right by the entrance to the village. This is a favorite destination for drinks and an alfresco dinner at the end of a day at the beach.
There are a couple of museums and churches that are open for visitors. Shops, bakeries, bars, and restaurants are everywhere. However, the main attraction in Plaka is to just stroll around and take in the gorgeous setting.
One of the best places to watch the sunset is from the terrace in front of the Panagia Korphiatissa Church. Make sure to peek at the beautiful mosaics made of pebbles in the courtyard next to the church. And don’t miss the hike up to the Castle (Kastro) – the older part of town – for 360-degree views of Milos and the surrounding areas. This is probably the best spot to watch the sunset.
Pollonia Milos
The picturesque fishing village of Pollonia is located on the very northeastern tip of Milos. Its harbor is outlined by a beautiful stretch of sandy beach and surrounded by great bars and seafood tavernas. There are plenty of places to enjoy seaside drinks or meals while taking in the stunning setting. This is a quaint, quiet and delightful little town. And its waterfront has many moored fishing boats, making it for a great Instagram destination. This is a good location for accommodations if you want to stay in a calmer part of the island.
Exploring Kleftiko “Beach”
Photos of the iconic, white-washed cliffs around Kleftiko are included in just about all promotional materials of Milos. It has a magnificent seashore topography like none other, and it’s only accessible by boat. This is certainly one of the top things to do in Milos.
The entire area is gorgeous, contoured by stunning and dramatic white volcanic cliffs, sea caves, and an amazing and irresistible turquoise water. This is not a beach per se; it’s an area where boats anchor for guests to take in the magnificent scenery and jump into the inviting dreamy water for a swim.
Our Itinerary . . .
We signed up for the day tour with Thalassitra (actually the same agency where we rented our car), in the Adamas Port. We chose the South Side Tour on the Leloudo traditional double-masted sailing boat. A bus picked us up at the port and took us to Paliochori Beach where we took motorized rubber rafts from the beach to the boat. At the end, the bus took us back to our starting point at the port.
Kleftiko is certainly the main attraction. The captain of the boat took us on a local tour of the local caves on a motorized rubber raft and told us about the area’s pirate history. There was plenty of time to swim and snorkel. The tour includes snorkeling equipment, lunch, snacks, and beverages. The itinerary also included stops at Katergo, Tsigrado and Gerakas, where we were also able to jump into the water. This was a lot of fun, and the day went by quickly.
Signing Up . . .
The tour costs €50 per person. The bus picked us up at in Adamas at 9AM and brought us back around 4PM. Make sure to take plenty of sunblock and towels. Book your tour in advance as they tend to sell out. Keep in mind that some tours are cancelled due to windy conditions. I recommend taking the tour soon after arriving in Milos; don’t wait towards the end of your visit or you will risk not doing the tour. Don’t miss it!
Favorite Beaches in Milos . . .
Milos is known for its volcanic terrain and natural beauty. There are dozens of dazzling beaches that are ideal for swimming, an exquisite landscape with caves to be explored, and a stunning, dramatic coastline that is best admired by boat. The following are some of our favorite spots.
Sarakiniko Beach
This is probably the most unusual and unforgettable spot in Milos. Sarakiniko Beach is known for its lunar-like landscape. It has a small sandy beach, but most of the site is surrounded by smooth volcanic rocks that jut into the ocean. The rocks form a swimming pool that is perfect for soaking in the water. Its moonscape terrain is unique with astonishing shapes, caves, and archways. There are also jagged cliffs for those who want an adrenaline rush by jumping into the ocean.
The sandy beach is very small, so you may end up having to lie on the rocks. Bring enough sunblock to protect against all the sun’s strong reflection off the surrounding bleached surfaces. There are no chairs and umbrellas for rent here. Typically, there is a food truck selling drinks and refreshments by the parking lot. The beach is easily accessed by car, ATVs, and scooters.
Papafragas Beach & Caves
This is another idyllic beach unlike any other we have seen. Papafragas is a wonder of nature with impressive cliffs and a unique topography. The magnificent rock formations surround a natural shallow pool right in its center. Even though people climb down to it, local authorities have installed a secured gate to discourage the use of a precarious path carved onto the side of the rocks. However, there is a small sandy beach right on the other side of the cliffs. This beach area is at the end of a protected water channel, making it a safe and refreshing spot for a swim.
It was fun to hike around the rocks, explore some of the caves, and make our way down to the beach. Weather permitting, it is possible to swim through the rocky archways and to visit some of the grottos and caves along the shoreline. The day we visited was windy and the water was a bit too agitated for a safe swim.
The beach can be easily accessed by car, ATV or scooter. In addition to a parking lot at the top, people also park along the road across from the site. There are no chairs and umbrellas for rent and there are no concessions for the purchase of food and drinks. The rocks are rough and uneven; make sure to wear closed shoes for your own safety.
Firiplaka Beach
Located in the southern coast of Milos, Firiplaka is one of the most popular beaches in this Cycladic Island. This beautiful sandy beach sits right against red-colored volcanic cliffs, a stunning backdrop. Its most recognizable landmark is a huge prominent boulder that juts out of the water at the beach’s east end. Part of the fun here is to explore the natural rock formations along the beach and the cave that runs through the boulder. The inviting water is shallow, crystal clear and Aegean turquoise.
The beach is organized with a beach bar serving food and drinks. Water sports amenities are also available. A set up with two sunbeds and an umbrella costs €30; an extra chair goes for €7.50. The beach is easily accessed by car, ATV or scooter; parking is free. Arrive early to stake out a good spot on the beach.
Plathiena Beach
Plathiena Beach is a small quiet beach near the northwestern tip of Milos. The gorgeous crystal-clear water is calm because the beach is in a cove. This stretch of fine white sand, located at the bottom of a narrow and windy road, is flanked by rugged cliffs at both ends. Parts of the beach is sheltered by tamarisk trees. There are daybeds and umbrellas available for rent and a beach bar selling drinks and snacks.
Firopotamos Beach
This is one of the most picturesque beaches in Milos. Firopotamos is in a protected small bay, and its blue-green water is ideal for a refreshing dip. The golden sand beach is next to a small seaside village with charming boathouses (a.k.a. syrmatas) and the Church of Agios Nikolaos. The beach is surrounded by cliffs in the east and has shading tamarisk trees as its backdrop. A few sunbeds and umbrellas are available on the beach, as well as a bar that sells refreshments during the summer.
Paliochori Beach
Head towards the southeast coast of Milos and the road will lead you to Paliochori Beach. This is one of the best beaches on the island, in part, because it is very well organized. This is a long stretch of sand mixed with small pebbles, with plenty of spaces to lie in the sun or go for nice walks. There are several places that rent chairs and umbrellas, and offer water sports and boat rentals. Restaurants along the strip serving food and drinks are open for lunch and dinner. The setting is stunning, with beautiful and impressive surrounding cliffs.
Being a popular island destination also means that prices are a bit higher. A set of two daybeds with an umbrella will cost anywhere between €30 – €60, depending on which row you choose. The closer to the water, the higher the price. In addition to free parking lots, people also park along the road. Buses and taxis are also available. The west end of the beach is the nudist area.
Places to Eat in Milos . . .
It is hard to find a bad meal in Greece. Simple, wholesome ingredients make for some amazing dishes. No need for gimmicky cooking tricks or over the top presentations. Fresh seafood and vegetables are usually the stars of every meal. Here are some of our favorites in Milos:
Nostos
Nostos is in an idyllic seaside setting near the Port of Adamas – a perfect spot for a gastronomic experience. They focus on seafood, offering meals prepared with fresh fish supplied daily by local fishermen. The menu includes dishes combining traditional Greek cuisine with modern cooking techniques. And the wine list is extensive.
Try their version of a Taramas (Taramasalata), a fish roe and sweet potato spread; this is a great mezze to start your meal. On the lighter side, the Royal Quinoa Salad with octopus carpaccio, avocado, mango, pomegranate, and seaweed wakame was delicious. The Stuffed Grilled Calamari was another favorite, with local goat cheese, Florina peppers and thyme. A Portokalopita (Greek orange phyllo cake) was a great way to end the meal.
O Hamos
This farm-to-table traditional Greek taverna specializes in Aegean cuisine. The dining area is a charming and inviting large courtyard covered in greenery and flowers. Their simple and delicious dishes are the closest to a home cooked meal. In fact, their meats and cheese come from their own farm. Personalized touches such as a hand-written menu and custom pottery add to the charming atmosphere.
We started with the Aubergine Salad (eggplant stuffed with tomatoes, onions, and cheese, topped with a balsamic glaze) which had a luscious texture. The Aginares Miliotikes (fried artichokes with eggs, green onions, and dill) was simple and very savory. For our main course, we chose the delectable Gourounopoulo (piglet wrapped in baking paper with molasses, mustard, and thyme, served with couscous). And we finished the meal with a delicious Orange Pie with Chocolate.
Restaurant Okto Milos
Okto is in the village of Trypiti, on top of a hill overlooking the Aegean Sea. It’s a great spot for dining during sunset. Chef Nikos Chatzipantelidis and pastry chef Jisun Sung combined their experience in Michelin starred restaurants to provide diners with a momentous experience. Here you will find traditional Greek dishes with their own Mediterranean touch.
The simple dishes show-off their fresh, high quality ingredients. We started with the Okto Greek Salad with feta mousse and tomato marmalade, a creative and memorable version of this traditional dish. The crispy Fried Potatoes with yogurt sauce were tasty and crunchy. Stuffed Peppers with feta cheese in a pungent tomato sauce was light and packed with flavor. Our main dishes were equally delectable: Soft Pork Belly with fried potatoes and Grilled Octopus with crispy bacon, fava purée and pickled onions. After all this great food, we did not have any room for dessert. This was indeed a notable culinary experience.
Medusa Milos
This restaurant is in one of the most picturesque fishing villages in Milos. The setting in Mandrakia is magnificent, with charming boathouses along a small harbor bay. This is another great location for a sunset meal. The wait for tables can be long, but the food and dining experience are worth it. Both tourists and locals flock to this popular open-air taverna for a reason.
In addition to the beautiful Aegean Sea backdrop, the food is amazing. You can’t go wrong with anything on the menu. We thought that their fresh Greek Salad, Baked Feta in Phyllo with Honey, and Milos Pitarakia (traditional mini cheese pie) were appetizing. The Grilled Local Sausage with fries and the Grilled Sundried Octopus were mouthwatering. And the Galaktoboureko with Kadaifi, an angel hair-like phyllo dough, was a heavenly dessert.
Yankos Café – Restaurant
We were hungry when we arrived in Adamas and all we could think about was a Souvlaki. So, after dropping off our luggage, we headed to Yankos. This is one of the best places to get a delicious and succulent Souvlaki. Even though they have a full-service restaurant, we just went to their carry-out corner counter. There are sidewalk tables available if you want to eat on the spot. Yankos is located right by the central square of Adamas.
Milos Sunset Drinks . . .
Verina Cocktail Bar
This is a great place for sunset drinks in the Plaka. It is extremely popular, so you may have to wait in line to order your drinks. The bar itself is small but its draw comes from being adjacent to the Panagia Korphiatissa Church terrace – one of the best spots to watch the sunset. In addition, they indeed mix great drinks and serve them in to-go cups.
Astakas Café Restaurant
Astakas is another popular place for sunset drinks. The restaurant is in the fishing village of Klima. A lot of people come for the sunset and stay for dinner as well. We enjoyed the breathtaking sunset over drinks but did not have a meal here. We ended up heading up the hill to dine at Okto.
Mosaic Milos
Mosaic is one of those places that is good for breakfast, lunch, brunch or dinner. In addition to the dining tables, they have a cool and inviting terrace on the upper level, overlooking the Plaka. The casual and comfortable terrace pillows are great if you just want to chill over coffee or a drink. The menu offers a modern Mediterranean and creative fare.
Deck Coffee – Brunch – Cocktails
The Deck is the perfect spot for drinks during the sunset in Pollonia. They have an upper veranda with a great view of the beach, the harbor, and the surrounding village area. It also seems to be a favorite for breakfast and brunch. In addition to their restaurant, they service the beach area across the street, where you can rent their sunbeds and umbrellas.
Our Lodging in Milos . . .
As with most Greek islands during the summer, hotels and apartments fill up quickly. Make sure to make reservations way ahead of time. We waited too long and didn’t have a lot of choices. We ended up at the Giannoulis Hotel which was more like renting a studio apartment. It included accommodations for three people, a small kitchenette, a bathroom, and free parking. They provided daily housekeeping services but nothing else; there are no amenities on the property. The location was great since it was walking distance from the Adamas Port, shops, bakeries, and restaurants.
We Left Our Hearts in Milos . . .
Milos is a Cycladic gem. It is timeless and its outstanding beauty will certainly steal your heart. We loved our visit here and will be back. The only thing we would do differently next time is to stay longer.
