Located amidst the verdant hills of Minas Gerais, the historic city of Mariana stands as a testament to Brazil’s rich and complex past. Founded in the late 1600s by intrepid Bandeirantes, Portuguese explorers in pursuit of gold, this city began as a village named Ribeirão do Carmo. The allure of precious metals led these pioneers inland, where they unearthed the golden treasures that would shape Mariana’s destiny. In 1745, Mariana grew to city status, with its current name, a tribute to Queen Maria Ana de Austria, wife of Portuguese King D. João V.
- A Glimpse Into Mariana’s Past
- Best Things to Do in Mariana
- Best Lunch Spot in Mariana
- Mariana and Everlasting Memories
A Glimpse Into Mariana’s Past
Often dubbed “Primeira de Minas” (The First of Minas), Mariana holds a unique distinction in Brazilian history. It was the first village, city, and capital of the state of Minas Gerais, a role that marked its significance in the country’s colonial narrative. The city was one of the biggest sources of gold for the Portuguese Crown during the 18th century. Mariana’s prominence extended beyond gold mining. It became the cradle of religion in Minas Gerais, witnessing the appointment of the first Catholic bishop to the state by the Pope. However, its historical acclaim is not without its darker threads. During the 18th century, Mariana was a hub of the slave trade, leaving a poignant and disturbing mark on the city’s story.
Today, Mariana’s cobblestone streets echo with the footsteps of history enthusiasts and curious travelers. Its economy, rooted in mineral extraction, particularly gold and iron ore, has paved the way for a thriving tourism industry. Mariana’s proximity to Ouro Preto, a UNESCO World Heritage Site merely 12 km away, makes it an ideal day trip. In addition, what truly sets Mariana apart is the unwavering commitment of its local government to preserve its culture and heritage.
Best Things to Do in Mariana
Although it’s a small town, Mariana has several historic attractions to visit in one day. For us, these are the best places to visit in Mariana:
Igrejas Gêmeas (Twin Churches)
Standing proudly across from each other, the “Igrejas Gêmeas,” or Twin Churches, are a mesmerizing testament to the city’s intriguing history. Nestled within the heart of the historic district, these architectural marvels, Igreja São Francisco de Assis and Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo, whisper tales of fierce competition and artistic brilliance.
Legend has it that these Baroque churches were built during the late 18th century in competition with each other. The origins of this rivalry are shrouded in mystery, with locals sharing tales of competing Catholic Orders vying for dominance and affluent families engaging in a lavish architectural duel. The result? Two resplendent structures facing what is now known as Praça Minas Gerais, the bustling heart of Mariana’s historic charm.
Regardless of the origins, the Twin Churches stand today as a harmonious blend of architectural brilliance and historical intrigue. Visitors find themselves captivated not just by the ornate details of the churches but also by the mystique that surrounds them. It is understandable why this is the most popular tourist destination in Mariana.
Igreja São Francisco de Assis (Church Saint Francis of Assisi)
The Igreja São Francisco de Assis stands as a dazzling testament to Brazil’s colonial artistry and religious fervor. Its construction started in 1763, at the peak of the gold rush in Mariana. The church has decorations that include intricate soapstone sculptures by Aleijadinho and detailed paintings by Mestre Ataíde, two luminaries of Brazilian colonial art. These masterpieces, adorning the church’s interior, embody Brazil’s cultural legacy. Igreja São Francisco de Assis is one of the many Baroque churches that encapsulate the artistic zenith of Brazil. The church was reopened to the public in September 2023, after a 14-year restoration project.
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Church Our Lady of Mount Carmel)
Amidst the cobblestone streets of Mariana, the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo stands as proof of architectural elegance and unwavering resilience. Designed in the elaborate Rococo style, its construction commenced in 1784. The church’s strategic placement, directly across from the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, enhances its captivating presence. Adorned with a magnificent coat of arms carved out of soapstone at its entry, the church beckons visitors with a promise of grandeur. The façade, a masterpiece, boasts a beautiful pediment that gracefully adorns the structure. Two bell towers stand proudly on the upper portion, adding a touch of regality to the architectural ensemble.
However, history has not been entirely kind to this beautiful structure. In 1999, a devastating fire nearly consumed its central nave, leaving a void in the heart of this architectural marvel. While the main altar and façade were meticulously restored, the intricate polychrome-painted ceiling caved in. Despite the challenges, the church was rebuilt, and its architectural and decorative elements were brought back to their glory.
Mariana’s Pelourinho (Pillory)
In the heart of Mariana’s historic district, Praça Minas Gerais stands as a silent witness to the tumultuous chapters of Brazil’s colonial era. At the center of this square, once stood the Pelourinho, the Pillory – a symbol of both justice and oppression during the 18th century. This is where slaves and criminals faced public punishment, under the watchful gaze of officers of the Portuguese Crown. It was also a way of asserting the crown’s control over the region’s precious gold resources.
This square, flanked by majestic colonial buildings including the iconic Twin Churches, was a strategic hub of power. The original pillory, a haunting reminder of past atrocities, was dismantled in 1871, an attempt to erase the shameful memories of slave mistreatment. However, in 1981, a new monument was created as a somber tribute to Mariana’s violent colonial past. This modern pillar carries profound symbolism. A globe crowns its top, signifying Portuguese maritime conquests. One side bears the weight of justice in the form of a scale. The other represents condemnation embodied by a sword. The Portuguese Crown’s coat of arms reminds us of the importance of acknowledging and learning from the shadows of the past.
Igreja São Pedro dos Clérigos (Church of Saint Peter of the Clergymen)
Sitting atop of a hill, the Igreja São Pedro dos Clérigos is a poignant testament to both Baroque architecture and the passage of time. This church, once envisioned as an opulent sanctuary, carries a unique tale of ambition and incompleteness. Construction commenced in 1753 but progress was slow, and the towers were left unfinished when construction was abandoned around 1820. It wasn’t until the early 20th century, between 1920-1922, that the towers were finally completed. However, they were built in a style differing from the original plans.
The interior remained a canvas frozen in time. Despite the superior quality of its carvings, they were never gilded. And paintings were never executed on the walls and ceilings. This unique sanctuary, with a layout that is rarely found in Minas Gerais, is reminiscent of the rotunda in Saint Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican. Its structure stands as a reminder of the grandeur that might have been and a silent ode to the passage of centuries in Mariana’s history.
Praça Gomes Freire (Gomes Freire Square)
Praça Gomes Freire, a charming square adorned with 18th-century colonial houses, is in the center of Mariana’s historic district. It was originally a place for horse riding, bullfighting, and religious festivities. Now it’s a relaxing area with a bandstand, a pond, gardens, and a fountain. The square has also become a meeting point for local university students who infuse the square with youthful energy. Make Praça Gomes Freire a delightful pause in your journey and enjoy a bite to eat while taking in its historical surroundings.
Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of Assumption)
The Catedral da Sé, also known as Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Assunção, stands proudly in the heart of Mariana. Despite its unassuming exterior, this cathedral holds a unique place in the heart of Minas Gerais. Its construction at Praça da Sé (Cathedral Square), dates to the early 18th century, heralding a legacy that transcends time.
Inside, a world of artistry unfolds. The interior is adorned with the exquisite craftsmanship of renowned masters like Ataíde and Aleijadinho. Among its treasures, the clerics’ seating area stands out, adorned with oriental-inspired paintings. The stone holy water basin, a symbol of purity and sanctity, is another element that stands out.
Yet the cathedral is not just a place of worship; it resonates with the melodies of history. Its halls have witnessed the harmonies of an alleged Arp Schnitger organ, a majestic instrument imported in 1753 from Hamburg, Germany. Supposedly, it was a gift from the Portuguese Crown to the first bishop of Mariana. Today, the cathedral continues to echo with the enchanting tunes of unforgettable concerts, maintaining its legacy as a cultural beacon.
Archdiocesan Museum of Sacred Art
Mariana’s Archdiocesan Museum of Sacred Art is a captivating window into Brazil’s Baroque legacy. Established in 1962, this museum houses a splendid collection of religious artifacts from Minas Gerais’ golden Baroque era. From sculptures and silverware to jewelry, vestments, and paintings, the museum’s displays offer a mesmerizing fusion of devotion and art. The museum is housed in a Rococo building dating back to 1770, which was used as a Chapter House for clerics’ meetings. For enthusiasts of history and art, the Archdiocesan Museum of Sacred Art is a must-visit destination in Mariana. This museum not only preserves priceless religious objects but also provides a rare glimpse into Brazil’s colonial past. A single ticket will grant you access to both the cathedral and the museum.
Best Lunch Spot in Mariana
Lua Cheia Restaurante
For lunch, head over to Lua Cheia Restaurante. This gem offers a unique dining experience, inviting guests to explore the region’s flavors in a 19th century setting. What sets Lua Cheia apart is its diverse buffet, showcasing an array of vibrant salads, regional specialties, and homemade desserts. The beauty lies in the freedom to craft your own plate, as the food is sold by weight. This is an essential stop for anyone seeking an unforgettable culinary adventure during their one-day visit. Lua Cheia Restaurante offers more than just a meal—it provides foodies with an exploration of Mariana’s traditional dishes and local flavors. Its historical ambiance and delightful offerings make it the ideal lunch spot, leaving a flavorful memory that lingers long after the visit.
Mariana and Everlasting Memories
As the day draws to a close in Mariana, one can’t help but marvel at the city’s timeless allure. A one-day visit to Mariana is more than just a journey through history. It’s an immersive experience into Brazil’s colonial past and a celebration of its vibrant present. From the enchanting architecture of its churches and museums to the savory delights of its local cuisine, every moment in Mariana feels like a brushstroke on a historical canvas. Amidst the echoes of Baroque melodies and the aroma of traditional dishes, visitors are transported through centuries, discovering the resilience, creativity, and spirit of a city that proudly preserves its heritage. A one-day visit may be fleeting, but the imprint it leaves is everlasting.
