Namibia, a land of breathtaking contrasts, unveils its diverse and awe-inspiring landscapes in the most remarkable way. With approximately 60% of its terrain dominated by sprawling deserts, including the renowned Namib Desert and the captivating Kalahari Desert, the country’s arid expanses paint a picture of raw, untouched beauty. However, Namibia’s allure doesn’t end there. This captivating land is a kaleidoscope of ever-changing scenery, where towering red dunes give way to rugged mountains, and vast plains teeming with wildlife lead to ancient valleys. The country offers a captivating journey through landscapes that are as diverse as they are extraordinary. Prepare to be spellbound as you traverse this land of contrasts, where every turn reveals a new and captivating vista.
Our itinerary included time to explore both the Kalahari and the Namib Deserts. These vast and captivating regions in Namibia left us in awe with their distinct beauty and diverse landscapes. From the sweeping dunes of the Namib Desert to the rugged expanses of the Kalahari, each desert offered a unique and unforgettable experience. In this blog post, we will share our incredible journey through these breathtaking deserts in Namibia. Both areas are a stunning world of sand, rock, wilderness, and extraordinary landscapes.
Our Namibia adventure also included a visit to the awe-inspiring Skeleton Coast. This is a captivating stretch along the Atlantic Ocean that forms part of the vast Namib Desert. However, we will share our experience in this untamed and hauntingly beautiful coastline in a separate blog post.
Check our blog post for general travel information and tips for self-driving in Namibia.
The Kalahari: A Marvel of Vast Sands and Terrific Wildlife
The Kalahari Desert spans across multiple Southern African countries. It is a vast and remarkable expanse of undulating, sand-covered plains. The Kalahari stretches over approximately 350,000 square miles, dominating almost all of Botswana, the eastern part of Namibia, and the northernmost part of South Africa. As the southernmost desert in Africa and the sixth largest desert in the world, the Kalahari captivates with its immense size and unique characteristics.
The southwest region of the Kalahari Desert merges with the Namib Desert, the coastal desert of Namibia. Together, they create a diverse and spellbinding landscape. While technically classified as a semi-arid sandy savannah, the Kalahari supports a surprising abundance of life, especially after it has rained and large tracts of excellent grazing become available. Although it receives more annual rainfall than a true desert, the rain quickly filters through the vast expanses of sand, leaving the surface dry. Despite this arid nature, the Kalahari hosts a rich array of animals and plants, surpassing the biodiversity found in the neighboring Namib Desert.
The native flora of the Kalahari includes acacia trees, shrubs, and various grasses, providing sustenance for a wide range of wildlife. Migratory birds and animals find refuge in this desert, making it an important habitat for their survival. However, the Kalahari’s extreme temperatures should not be overlooked. Summers bring scorching heat, while winters can be freezing at night. The relatively high altitude and predominantly clear, dry air contribute to these temperature extremes, creating a challenging environment.
Starting at the Kalahari
Our self-drive trip through Namibia started towards the southwestern part of the Kalahari Desert, where we spent our first night at the Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch. The drive to the ranch was an adventure, with stunning views of the desert’s deep red sand dunes and unique flora and fauna. It was our introduction to the deserted dirt roads that crisscross the country, and the feeling that we were indeed in the middle of nowhere. Nevertheless, we couldn’t contain our excitement knowing that this was just the beginning of our adventure. We appreciated every minute of that drive, loving the Kalahari’s mixed tree and shrub savannah, and sand dunes that were separated by valleys. Along the road, it was a kick to stop at the Tropic of Capricorn, which runs through Namibia. It’s the southernmost point where the sun can be directly overhead at noon.
The Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
This property, which was initially a sheep and cattle ranch, is located about a 4-hour drive from Windhoek. The tranquil owner-run lodge is perched on a sand ridge. As we drove up the long sandy road that led from the entrance gate to the property, we could see the chalets sitting on the edge of the dunes. We stayed in one of these four dune chalets, built on stilts, overlooking the Kalahari. Our chalet was beautifully designed and had its own private dipping pool, offering expansive views of the desert and some wild game. After a warm welcome, and afternoon tea, we went on our first game drive. During the drive we spotted oryx antelopes, springboks, zebras, ostriches, and many other animals.
The Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch also has a large number of giraffes in its reserve. It was an incredible experience watching them carefully feed on leaves from the thorny acacia trees. These tall, elegant, gentle desert-adapted animals get their water intake mostly from these leaves. The desert has over 150 bird species, many of which make the reserve their habitat. It was especially interesting watching the social weavers go in and out of their gigantic “community” nests. These nests consist of several chambers and can accommodate over 100 pairs of weavers at a time. During our game drive, we also came across the pair of rhinos protected 24/7 by the ranch rangers. Even though we opted for a game drive to explore the wildlife at the reserve, visitors also have the option to do it on horseback.
Desert Gin Tonics at Sunset
As we stopped for a sundowner atop a large rust-colored sand dune, we were struck by the immense beauty of the Kalahari. We had a wonderful vantage point to appreciate the surrounding area and the wildlife all around us. The landscape was dotted with ancient acacia trees and some of the highest dunes in the region. It was quite a sight to see a herd of oryx and zebras roaming by the bottom of the dune, and a curious ostrich watching us from afar.
We then realized how wrong we had been and how this vast region is often misconstrued as a dry desert. This is truly an extraordinary place that offers unparalleled natural beauty and diversity of flora and fauna. Watching the sunset casting its light onto the red dunes and acacia trees in spectacular colors was breathtaking. The experience was made even more enjoyable by sipping on refreshing gin tonics and sampling delicious Namibian snacks.
Namibian Hospitality
We were impressed by the quality of the food and the hospitality of the staff at the Bagatelle. And soon we realized that this is the Namibian hospitality standard. We ate great food and received excellent service everywhere we went. Our dinner at the ranch was delicious, and we enjoyed trying out the chef’s perfectly grilled springbok. The staff went out of their way to make us feel welcome, and their attention to detail was evidenced throughout our stay. From the warm greeting on arrival, with cake and tea, to the personalized service at mealtimes, we felt truly pampered. The guide on our game drive was knowledgeable and had a great sense of humor. We were glad to have spent our first night at the Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch. It was a great way to start our self-drive adventure through Namibia.
The Namib’s Majestic Dunes and Desert Wonders
The Namib Desert stretches along the Atlantic coasts of Angola, Namibia, and South Africa. It is a captivating coastal desert with remarkable features and a mesmerizing landscape. Due to the minimal annual precipitation it receives, this is considered the only true desert in Southern Africa. It is also one of the oldest and driest deserts in the world. The Namib Desert’s defining characteristic is its towering sand dunes. They were shaped over millions of years by the relentless force of the wind, resulting in a landscape of unparalleled beauty. Inland, gravel plains and scattered mountain outcrops add further intrigue to this desert’s diverse scenery.
The Namib Desert’s ever-changing colors create a visual spectacle, ranging from vibrant hues during sunrise to the ethereal light of sunset. The contrast between the rust-colored sand dunes and the vivid white salt pans in areas like Sossusvlei is particularly breathtaking. With dunes exceeding 1,000 feet in height, Sossusvlei is a renowned destination within Namibia, showcasing the desert’s grandeur. Moving north from Sossusvlei, the sand transitions to a rocky desert, which encompasses scenic canyons amidst its predominantly flat terrain.
Even though the Namib Desert exhibits pretty harsh conditions, it sustains a surprising variety of plants and animals. We were amazed to see first-hand how its fauna has evolved to thrive with limited water resources. With extreme temperatures exceeding 113℉ in the summer and freezing nights, the Namib Desert presents a challenging yet remarkable environment for adventurers. From the enigmatic Skeleton Coast in the north to the inland wonders of the Namib-Naukluft National Park, this desert offers a captivating journey through ancient landscapes and unparalleled natural beauty.
Exploring the Desert in Sossusvlei
Namibia is a land of stunning contrasts and Sossusvlei is a prime example of its breathtaking beauty. The towering dunes of the Namib Desert are unlike anything else in the world. They have incredible vibrant orange hues that glow in the changing light. We were excited to explore this unique landscape. And our next destination, the Hoodia Desert Lodge, provided the perfect base for us to do just that. After a 5-hour drive, we were welcomed with refreshing drinks and a friendly smile from Thomas, the proprietor who runs the facility. We checked in, had a brief review of upcoming activities, and enjoyed a light lunch. Afterwards, we rested a bit to get ready for our next adventure in the evening.
The Hoodia Desert Lodge
Hoodia Desert Lodge is an idyllic retreat surrounded by the majestic Namib-Naukluft Mountains on the banks of the Tsauchab River. The lodge’s lovely 11 thatch and canvas luxury chalets are thoughtfully built far apart to ensure guests’ privacy. Each one boasts an en-suite bathroom with indoor and outdoor showers, as well as an open-air bathtub.
The main lodge offers a spacious lounge and bar area, a restaurant with a central fireplace, and a raised wooden terrace overlooking the riverbed and surrounding desert. Guests can take a refreshing dip in the swimming pool and sunbathe on the sundeck sculpted into a natural rock formation. The lodge is an oasis of calm in the heart of the Namib Desert.
A Unique Sundowner
We met Lucas, our designated guide, in time for a unique sundowner experience overlooking the desert. He drove us to a private spot set up with a table for two, drinks, snacks, candles, and blankets. It was a perfect location for us to enjoy the stunning view of the sunset and its vibrant colors over the Namib Desert. The vast gravel plains seemed to stretch into the distance as far as the eye could see. Watching the colors shift as the sun set was magnificent. It was wonderful to experience a classic Namibia sunset. Lucas arrived to pick us up and return us to the lodge as night fell so we could cap the day with a delicious dinner.
Sossusvlei Desert Dunes
It was thrilling to explore one of Namibia’s most well-known and perhaps most Instagram-worthy locations when we got up in the morning. We ate breakfast early and then hopped in our safari vehicle to drive to the Sesriem Gate for entry into the Namib Naukluft National Park. We planned to arrive at the park at daybreak to capture the enormous, orange-red colored dunes while the light was soft, and the shadows emphasized their towering shapes and curves. Some of the world’s tallest free-standing sand dunes can be seen in this region.
Our exploration of the mesmerizing Sossusvlei began with a stop along the road in Dune Valley. This elevated location was a perfect spot to give us an initial view of the surrounding area and what was to come. Our guide took this opportunity to give us an overview of how the Namib Desert and its distinctive ecosystem came to be. It was interesting to hear how animals and plants in the area have evolved to survive in such hostile conditions. The dunes that surrounded us were created by sand carried by the wind all the way from the Namibian coast. It was hard to believe that we were standing on sand that was 5 million years old. Its magnificent red hue is due to the amount of iron oxide content in it.
Dune 45
Continuing our journey, we made our way to Dune 45, named after its location 45 miles from the Sesrium Gate. This dune is popular among visitors and is one of the most photographed dunes in the area, thanks to its distinctive shape. Accessible by any car, many adventurers opt to hike Dune 45 to witness its enchanting beauty up close. The ideal time for this exhilarating ascent is at sunrise. That’s when the sun casts a magical glow over the landscape, offering a breathtaking panoramic view of the surroundings.
Hiking Big Daddy
The following stop was the highlight of our visit. Rather than hiking Dune 45, we opted to hike the epic Big Daddy Dune, which is the tallest in the park. Note that to reach Big Daddy, you have to drive in deep sand and not too many cars can make through it. For those who are self-driving, there are shuttles provided by the park from a nearby parking lot. It is strongly advisable to do that to avoid getting stuck in the sand. Our guide was able to drive our large safari truck all the way there to drop us off. This drop off location was convenient for us to traverse a long, flat clay pan on foot to reach Big Daddy’s base.
The ascent was challenging but rewarding, and the view from the summit was spectacular. It took us about an hour to hike all the way to the top. And of course, that included numerous stops for photos and to catch our breath. On the way down, our feet dug deeply into the sloping sand surface making it a fun and unforgettable descent into Deadvlei. We strongly recommend taking your shoes off during your descent. It’s fun and keeps your shoes from filling up with sand.
Deadvlei
Deadvlei (meaning “dead marsh”) is a barren, white clay pan surrounded by towering red dunes. It is one of the most surreal and photogenic landscapes in Namibia. Here, the dead camel thorn trees that once grew along the river have been scorched by the sun and weathered over time, forming a stark contrast with the white pan and the red dunes. We spent an hour exploring this mystical place. We loved taking in the striking contrasts of colors and textures, and capturing stunning photos.
It was thrilling to descend to Big Daddy’s base and see Deadvlei’s cracked white clay pan, which was breathtaking. We couldn’t help but feel as if we were on another planet as we traversed the desolate terrain. The 900-year-old dry trees with petrified roots added to the area’s surreal and eerie beauty. After wandering around the trees for a while, we made our way towards the nearby parking area to rejoin our guide. This is also where you can take the shuttle back to the parking lot where self-drivers leave their cars.
“Out of Africa” Picnic
It was then time to unwind and savor a tasty lunch after spending the morning exploring the soaring dunes and taking in the breathtaking vistas. We departed to Elim Dune, the farthest inland dune in Sossusvlei, and were treated to a delicious picnic lunch. Our chosen place was shaded by a magnificent Camel Thorn Tree, which added to the picturesque atmosphere. The Hoodia Desert Lodge staff had packed a delightful meal which we enjoyed as we sipped on some great wine. It felt like a luxurious setting surrounded by a stunning scenery. In addition to some ostriches and springboks, we had a curious oryx watching us from afar as we indulged in our meal. This “Out of Africa”-style picnic was a perfect way to cap off our morning activities, leaving us with lifelong memories.
Sesriem Canyon
On the way back to the Hoodia Desert Lodge, after our delectable picnic lunch, we stopped briefly at Sesriem Canyon. This narrow gorge has been carved by the Tsauchab River over millions of years, creating a stunning natural landscape. It was exhilarating to hike down into the canyon and explore its narrow passages, surrounded by towering rock formations. We took a lot of pictures to document the beauty of the surroundings to capture the stunning red and orange hues of the canyon walls. We returned to Hoodia after our canyon hike, where we had time to unwind by the pool. It was great to enjoy the expansive views of the Namib Desert before getting ready for supper.
Desert Apple Pie
As we got back on the road, to cross the desert in direction of the coast, we stopped at a delightful little oasis (some call it a pit-stop) called Solitaire. This was a great opportunity to refill the tank and try its famous apple pie. The bakery was started by “Moose” McGregor, a Scottish baker and adventurer, three decades ago. Even though the bakery sells all kinds of pastries, the crumble apple pie has become its best seller. Even though “Moose” passed away several years ago, his legendary apple pie lives on.
The Damaraland Wilderness
We were eagerly waiting to explore another stunning region of Namibia as we traveled Damaraland. Its territory extends between the Namib and Kalahari deserts, in the Kunene Region in the northwest of Namibia. Known for its diverse terrain and breathtaking displays of color, the area boasts magnificent table-topped mountains, dramatic rock formations, and unusual vegetation. The landscape of Damaraland has been shaped over thousands of years by the powerful forces of wind, water, and geological forces, resulting in a dramatic collection of landscapes that include rolling hills, dunes, gravel plains, and ancient river terraces. We were excited to witness the beauty of this area and to immerse ourselves in its natural wonders.
This remote area, situated 90 km from the Skeleton Coast, is the ancestral home of the Damara people. Damaraland is characterized by its sparse population, making it one of the least populated areas in Namibia. Its resilient flora and fauna have adapted to the harsh conditions of high heat and droughts. One of the biggest draws of this area is the tracking the desert-adapted elephants and rhinos that roam freely across its vast expanse. Unlike traditional parks or reserves, the wildlife traverses unrestricted in the entire region.
Onduli Ridge
We reached the Onduli Airstrip & Self-Drive Lounge after a 5-hour drive from the coastal area. After parking at a shelter, we were driven to the camp which was 20 minutes away. We were immediately struck by the lodge’s breathtaking natural beauty. Situated amongst stunning granite boulders, the lodge’s design beautifully incorporates the rock formations into each cabin’s interior. The luxurious cabins feature sliding louvered shutters, which open to offer uninterrupted views of the stunning surroundings, bringing us even closer to nature. The cabins’ partial open-air bathrooms add to the overall feeling of luxury and the connection between guests and the desert-scape. The camp also features a communal lounge, dining room, bar, campfire circle, pool, and a deck with stunning views, allowing us to relax in style and comfort. We were thoroughly impressed with the stunning modern design of the entire camp.
During our stay at Onduli Ridge, we enjoyed some of the finest food in Namibia, prepared by the lodge’s talented chefs. The staff was exceptional, making our stay highly memorable. We were impressed with the attention to detail and the overall commitment to excellence at Onduli Ridge. Whether we were relaxing in our cabin, dining in the communal areas, or enjoying a drink around the campfire circle, we were constantly surrounded by stunning natural beauty and exceptional service. In addition, it was great to support a business that is committed to conservation efforts. Onduli Ridge is involved in various projects related to the conservation of rhino and the desert dwelling Angolan giraffe populations. This was a great spot to enjoy the heart of Namibia.
Desert Game Drive
Embarking on a game drive in the vast expanse of Damaraland was an extraordinary experience. This desert landscape is unlike anything we had ever encountered, with its unique and haunting beauty. The remarkable flora and fauna of the region, particularly the desert-adapted wildlife, added to the allure. As we set off on our game drive early in the morning with our knowledgeable guide, William, we were filled with anticipation for the wildlife encounters that awaited us.
One of the thrills of exploring Damaraland is the challenge of finding the elusive animals that roam freely in this massive desert. With William’s expertise and the help of radio communications, we navigated through rugged terrain, around boulders, dry riverbeds, and deep sand, in search of wildlife. Our excitement reached its peak when we received a tip about a herd of desert-adapted elephants nearby. William skillfully maneuvered our vehicle, racing against time, until we arrived at the magnificent sight of these majestic creatures.
Following our exciting encounter with the elephants, William took us on a lunch break at a secure, shady location on a dried riverbed. We enjoyed our meal while admiring some beautiful birds, the desert environment, and the serenity of our surroundings.
Desert-Adapted Elephants
Desert-adapted elephants are a fascinating subspecies that have evolved to thrive in the severe and arid conditions of the desert. Their physical and behavioral traits are different from their counterparts in the savannah. A notable distinction is that they can travel great distances while navigating large tracts of arid terrain in search of food and water. The difficulties of surviving in such an arid and unforgiving environment are overcome by their extraordinary recall and knowledge of water sources.
These elephants have a slenderer body structure than those that live in savannahs. This allows them to navigate tight spaces and find food in places with little vegetation. They are more mobile on the shifting sands thanks to their longer legs and extended footpads. The larger surface of the feet keeps them from sinking into the sand as they cross over dunes in search of food and water. These elephants also have a remarkable capacity for water conservation, which enables them to go long stretches without access to freshwater sources.
The remarkable adaptation of wildlife in the face of difficult surroundings is demonstrated by these hardy and resourceful animals. This was a great opportunity to witness their tenacity and see the distinctive survival techniques they use in the desert.
Twyfelfontein
Our visit to Twyfelfontein after lunch was a captivating journey into the ancient past of hunter-gatherer communities in this region of Africa. It became Namibia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. Upon our arrival, we were assigned to a guide who led us through the site visit. Guests are not allowed to wander by themselves to ensure the conservation and preservation of the engravings.
The rock engravings at Twyfelfontein provide a fascinating glimpse into the rituals and beliefs of the people who inhabited this land over 2,000 years ago. Animals like rhinos, elephants, ostriches, and giraffes are depicted on several carvings. Others also include depictions of human and animal footprints. Among these remarkable carvings, the “Lion Man” stands out, capturing the transformation of humans into animals, symbolizing the connection between humans and the natural world. The unusual appearance of animals such as seals and penguins, not endemic to the region, suggests that these communities may have had some contact with the coast, which is 90-100 kilometers away.
Exploring Twyfelfontein, with its abundance of rock petroglyphs, was insightful. The sheer concentration of these engravings and the stories they convey provide a remarkable window into Namibia’s cultural and historical tapestry.
Damara Living Museum
Continuing our cultural excursion, we embarked on a visit to the Damara Living Museum after leaving Twyfelfontein. This unique destination offered us a captivating opportunity to immerse ourselves in the traditional Damara culture. The museum, constructed by the Damara community in cooperation with the Living Culture Foundation Namibia, serves as a dedicated space for preserving their ancient heritage, striving to portray their culture with authenticity.
One of the Bushmen greeted us at the entrance and took us through the different sections of the open-air museum explaining their traditions. Each area of the museum provided insight into different aspects of Damara life, from traditional blacksmith techniques, to tanning of leather, to jewelry making and crafts. They also demonstrated the art of igniting a fire using wooden sticks. Throughout our visit, we had groups of men and women adorned in vibrant traditional attire, showcasing their skills, and demonstrating their ancestral practices. And before we left, a group of men and women performed a traditional song as they danced to it.
This was an excellent way to witness and participate in this living tribute to the ancient Damara way of life and gaining a deeper understanding of their culture.
Burnt Mountain
Continuing our journey through the captivating region, we stopped at Burnt Mountain – a geological marvel at the foot of a volcanic ridge. Its solidified lava flow and distinct burnt orange hues were quite a sight. As we stood there, surrounded by rugged textures and unique formations, we absorbed the timeless beauty shaped over countless years. Burnt Mountain is a reminder of the Earth’s transformative power, leaving us with a deeper appreciation for Namibia’s amazing landscapes.
Check our blog post for general travel information and tips for self-driving in Namibia.
Mesmerizing Landscapes and Wildlife
Exploring the Kalahari and Namib Deserts was an incredible journey that exceeded all of our expectations. The beauty and diversity of these desert landscapes left us in awe. From the vast expanses of sand-covered plains in the Kalahari to the towering dunes and surreal colors of the Namib, each desert had its own unique charm. In addition, the captivating landscapes and the wildlife we encountered were equally as mesmerizing.
Exploring these deserts has left an enduring mark on our souls. The tranquility, the vastness, and the untouched beauty of these regions are incredible wonders that exist beyond our everyday lives. We will forever remember our momentous experience in the Kalahari and Namib Deserts.
