Located in the North Central Province, the sacred city of Anuradhapura was Sri Lanka’s first ancient capital. These very impressive and well preserved ruins reflect the Sinhala civilization’s incredible history and rich culture. And, because of this remarkable history, in 1982, UNESCO added it as a World Heritage Site. This is one stop that you must include in your itinerary.
The Sinhalese founded the city in the 5th century BCE and established it as its capital between the 4th century BCE and the 11th century BCE. In the 3rd century BCE, they introduced Buddhism to the country. As a result, much of Sri Lankan history and culture evolved around Buddhism. Consequently, the area around Anuradhapura’s is bursting with massive dagobas (also called stupas), temples, monasteries and water tanks. Nonetheless, development moved on and the Sinhalese abandoned the city for many years. In the 1870s, the city started to recover and once again became one of Sri Lanka’s most important pilgrimage centers.
Buddhists still use several of its buildings as sacred shrines. And, unlike other historic places in Sri Lanka, this ancient city remains relevant as one of the main pilgrimage sites in the country.
Exploring Anuradhapura . . .
Off The Beaten Path
Anuradhapura is one of the points that make up Sri Lanka’s famous Cultural Triangle. The two other points are Kandy and Polonnaruwa. Even though the city is only 127 miles northeast of Colombo, very few tourists visited the area. As a matter of fact, in several sites, we saw more Tufted Gray Langur monkeys than humans.
In many instances, at some religious sites, we were the only tourists. Some of the locations were almost empty, making it feel as if they were off the beaten path. It was ideal for those of us who prefer to avoid crowded touristy destinations. Other places, such as the more religious sites, were crowded with Sri Lankans praying and paying their respects. This made our visit even more special as we witnessed some of the rituals that the Sinhalese Buddhists practice.
A TIP TO REMEMBER: Make sure to remove your shoes when entering religious sites and temples. You must leave your shoes outside. If you don’t want to walk barefoot, you can wear socks. These are helpful especially when the ground is too hot in the middle of the day.
Getting There and Around
Getting to Anuradhapura is easy. You can either take a bus (which is cheapest but may require a transfer), a tuk-tuk (which takes the longest), a car or a train. Uber is also available if you are traveling from Colombo. We opted for a 3.5-hour train ride to Anuradhapura. It gave us a more local experience and allowed us to enjoy scenic landscapes, beautiful rice fields, and Sri Lankan daily activities along the railroad tracks. Upon arrival, we hired a tuk-tuk to take us to our hotel where we planned on hiring a driver and a local guide.
The archaeological complex in Anuradhapura is spread out so a good means of transportation is essential to explore the area. With too much distance to cover and oppressive heat, we do not recommend walking or biking between sites. Plenty of tuk-tuk drivers offer their services but remember that you get what you pay for. We hired an English-speaking licensed guide who provided us with good historical information and a driver with an air-conditioned car. As a result, we ended up with a better planned itinerary and an efficient, comfortable way to cover more sites in a shorter period. Best yet, the cost was not that much more. It was definitely worth it.
For more information about getting around Sri Lanka, booking train tickets, and hiring a guide and a driver, click here.
How Long to Visit?
There are plenty of sites to visit in and around Anuradhapura. In fact, it took us two full days to cover most of the principal sites. We toured at a good pace, without feeling exhausted at the end of our visit. We also were able to visit Mihintale, which is a 30-minute drive away, with enough time to join our guide on a refreshing late afternoon swim at the Black Water Pond.
Guide to Anuradhapura . . .
Anuradhapura is a great destination for the culture aficionado. There is so much to see that it may be a bit overwhelming. (Remember that regardless of what you choose to visit, it will be special.) We suggest that you spend some time planning an itinerary and decide what to include in your list. Here is our guide of must-see attractions:
Anuradhapura Archaeological Museum
Prior to visiting the sacred sites, we recommend that you visit the museum to purchase an admission ticket. The $25 ticket seems steep, but the fees help the Central Cultural Fund’s efforts to maintain and preserve the ruins. Be aware of tuk-tuk scams in which the driver charges you less but bypasses the ticket office to avoid paying the ticket fees. That also means that your driver won’t take you to the more important sites where officials keep tight security and check tickets.
The museum is a good source of basic information about the area. It has some interesting artifacts, including stone carvings, ancient scriptures and more recent colonial relics. This is a good way to start your visit and get some background on the history of Anuradhapura. Unfortunately, authorities moved the most important pieces to the Colombo National Museum. If you plan to spend time in Colombo, you should check it out.
Isurumuniya Viharaya
This ancient monastic complex dates to the 3rd century BCE. The site houses three structures, two of which are built into a rock formation. These cave temples include Buddha statues and several other painted and sculpted figures. The third structure houses an exhibit of stone carvings, including the famous Isurumuniya Lovers and the Royal Family.
On the top of the rock above the temples sits a beautiful white Dagoba. You can hike to the top and walk around the Dagoba. The view from above is beautiful and will give you a good feel for what is in its surroundings. Note the elephant carvings on the face of the rock formation, rising out of a pond. Keep in mind that you must remove your shoes and cover your legs and shoulders prior to entering this religious complex.
Sri Maha Bodhi Tree
This is one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in Sri Lanka. The tree originated from a branch carried to Sri Lanka by Sanghamiththa Thero, Daughter of King Darmashoka of India. That branch came from a tree in Bodh Gaya, India, under which Buddha became enlightened. In 288 BCE, Sri Lankan King Devanampiya Tissa planted the branch in the Mahamewna Gardens.
This fascinating place will awaken all of your senses. It is interesting to see the number of devout Buddhists, mostly dressed in white, praying and worshiping at the site. Mid-day, many devotees offer food (usually milk rice) to Buddha and the monks. Flowers are also a popular offering. As you walk around the Bodhi Tree and the shrines, you will see many devotees sitting or kneeling on the ground praying or chanting.
It is also common to see the pilgrims lighting incense just outside the Sri Maha Bodhi entrance. In fact, close by is a structure with large urns where worshipers burn incense.
The site entry fee is Rs200. If you would like to present flowers as an offering, you can purchase some at the entrance. It is very inexpensive. For a small contribution (Rs 100), you can get a monastery volunteer to tie a blessed string around your wrist. A Buddhist monk blesses the cotton thread in advance. Some say that it protects you and brings you good health.
There is a stand at the entrance where you can leave your shoes. Even though there is no charge to keep your shoes, they do expect a small tip. The entire experience here is indeed very memorable.
Lowamahapaya – The Brazen Palace
Built in the 2nd century BCE, the palace is a grand structure that Buddhist monks used as a residence. The building layout included 1,600 stone columns supporting nine stories. Those columns are all that remain. Its name comes from the original bronze tiles used on the roof. Up to 1,000 monks lived here. Currently, the Maha Vihara monastic order uses the center structure, which is new.
You can stop by this site as you walk from the Sri Maha Bodhi Tree grounds to the Ruwanvelisaya Dagoba. A fence surrounds the site. No visitors are allowed in.
Ruwanvelisaya Dagoba
This is another impressive sacred place in Anuradhapura’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. The dagoba (stupa) is one of the tallest ancient monuments in the world. In the 2nd century BCE, it was much smaller. Over time, Kings renovated it and increased its size.
Stupas are dome-shaped structures. Buddhists built them as shrines. Typically, they contain a central chamber that houses the remains of a holy person or relics related to them. Purportedly, this stupa enshrines the largest collection of Buddha’s relics. By the 19th century, this stupa became a ruin but the government restored it in the early 20th century. The current structure was crowned in 1940. A wall with a frieze of 344 elephants standing shoulder to shoulder “protects” this imposing white stupa.
The site is the most prominent of the holy places that Buddhist pilgrims visit in Anuradhapura. Therefore, expect it to be busy throughout the day. If you prefer to avoid crowds and wander around peacefully, you should plan your visit in the early morning or late afternoon. Here’s another tip: avoid visiting mid-day. The heat is stifling and the ground is almost too hot to walk barefoot.
Thuparamaya
Dating back to the 3rd century BCE, the Thuparamaya Dagoba was the first to be built in Sri Lanka. Allegedly, King Devanampiya Tissa built it in the shape of a bell to enshrine the right collarbone of Buddha. It was destroyed and rebuilt over time; the current structure was redone in 1842.
There are remnants of stone columns that once supported a vatadage. (Vatadages are structures that protect small stupas.) Concentric stone columns, laid out in a circle, support a wooden roof. Some of the stone columns at this site still retain their lotus-shaped crowns. The lotus flower is a common symbol of Buddhism.
Abhayagiriya Monastery
Built in the 1st century BCE, this important ancient Theravada Buddhist monastic complex is on the northern side of Anuradhapura. Once housing over 5000 monks, it was a great place of learning and intellectual discourse. Here are some highlights:
The Abhayagiri Dagoba
The origin of this enormous dome-shaped structure dates back to the 1st century BCE. King Vattagamani Abhaya built it as a pilgrimage site for three sects of Buddhism – Mahayana, Theravada and Vajrayana. As it stands today, restorers used clay bricks to rehabilitate the stupa to resemble the original structure. It also has the oldest known carved moonstones in the world. Allegedly, it houses relics of the Lord Buddha.
Alms-Hall (Refectory)
This is where the monks ate their meals. The remaining stone rice trough held enough rice to feed the many monks that lived here. A smaller trough next to it supposedly held curry.
Eth Pokuna (Elephant Pond)
This large and intriguing reservoir is a reminder of the remarkable hydraulic engineering employed at the time. The pond was connected to the nearby man-made Periyankulama Tank with pipelines that still work. It is five times the size of an Olympic swimming pool.
Samadhi Buddha Statue
Located at Anuradhapura’s Mahamewna Park, this is one of the best-preserved statues in Sri Lanka. It shows Buddha meditating. The most interesting characteristic is that the Samadhi Buddha has three different expressions, depending on what angle you look at it – from the center, left or right. It’s quite remarkable.
Twin Ponds
Most likely built in the 6th century CE, these large pools with underground pipes and channels are another marvel of ancient hydraulic engineering. Resident monks used the steps around the ponds to stand while bathing. The water traveled through several filtering chambers before reaching the pond through a stone spout.
Jetawanaramaya
This magnificent structure may have been the tallest stupa in the ancient world. King Mahasena built it in the 3rd century CE. He started the construction and his son, King Sirimeghavanna, completed it after his father’s death. Supposedly, the king built the stupa to show remorse in allowing the earlier destruction of Mahavihara, a Theravadan Buddhist monastery. The monument represents the tensions that existed between the Theravada and Mahayana sects of Buddhism.
According to legend, the stupa contains the relic of Buddha Shakyamuni’s belt. This holy structure attracts large numbers of devout Buddhists year-round. The monastery is also home to approximately 10,000 monks.
Jetawanaramaya’s structure is an example of the amazing engineering techniques used at that time. In 1981, the complex became part of a UNESCO-Sri Lanka Cultural Triangle Sites restoration project. The conservation effort is still on-going.
Guide to Mihintale . . .
Mihintale is only about 8 miles east of Anuradhapura. Even though it doesn’t attract as many tourists as Anuradhapura, Mihintale has a lot of attractions worth exploring. In fact, Sri Lankans believe this site is where the Buddhist monk Mahinda and King Devanampiya Tissa met, leading the King to establish Buddhism in the country. It is now a pilgrimage site, attracting large numbers of devout Buddhists to its holy grounds. Up to 2000 monks may have lived in Mihintale, requiring complex facilities to support day-to-day living. When visiting Anuradhapura, you should take the time to come here as well.
Here are some highlights:
Mihintale Ancient Hospital Complex
Visit the ruins of what was possibly the oldest hospital in the world. Built in the 9th century CE, Buddhist monks ran the hospital. They followed the principles of Ayurveda, given the importance and variety of spices in Sri Lanka. Among the ruins is a remarkable stone medicinal trough used for the immersion therapy of patients in oils and herbs. Also, you can clearly see where all the patient rooms were arranged within the building.
Indikatuseya Monastery Complex
This complex is closely located to the Mihintale Ancient Hospital. Although the structures are not as impressive in size, it is worth a stop. Indikatuseya was a Mahayanist monastery, one of the branches of Buddhism.
The grounds contain two stupas, one of which has the unusual shape of a lotus flower. There are also remains of a large monastic bathing pond which has been restored recently. We were the only ones visiting this site aside from the Toque macaques running around.
Sinha Pokuna
There is a car park midway up the hill as you head to the main entrance of the Mihintale holy site. Across from it you will find the Sinha Pokuna – the Lion Fountain. This structure was more like a fountain with a water tank from which water flowed through a gargoyle-like carved lion head. Perhaps monks living in nearby caves used this as an open-air shower. The reliefs around the Sinha Pokuna are of special distinction given the motifs carved in stone.
Kantaka Chetiya
Immediately next to the car park you will see a long set of steps heading up to the Kantaka Chetiya. This flight of about 100 steps will lead you to Sri Lanka’s most ancient stupa. The structure is noteworthy due to its age and state of preservation. The stupa was completely covered by soil until it was discovered and excavated in 1814. The striking features of this monument include flower altars backed by vahalkadas (sculpted panels) in the four cardinal directions. They are decorated with elephants, geese, lions, horses, bulls and mythical dwarfs in varied postures.
Cave Dwellings
To the west of Kantaka Chetiya are a group of rock formations that were once used as shelters. Supposedly, these caves served as the first dwellings for the monastic bhikkhus (monks). You can hike through the rocks and get a sense of what it must have been like to live in such a serene setting. The views from this vantage point are spectacular.
Hiking Mihintale Hills
One of the highlights of our visit was the hike to the summit of the Mihintale Hills. One advantage of having our guide was that he had access to the monastery’s head monk and got permission for the hike. The guide was given the keys to a security gate, which gave us access to the trail. It was exciting to go through areas with no public access to see where monks still live in modern-day caves. And the view from the top of the hills was magnificent.
Kaludiya Pokuna – Dark Water Pond
This is an enchanting site at the foot of the Mihintale Hills. The pond, a man-made water tank, is the largest in the sacred area of Mihintale. The name is derived from the dark water in the pond. This peaceful site is the perfect setting for meditating. Nearby there is a cave that functioned as a bathing house. Slabs of granite make up the façade located below a large boulder.
Our highlight was to go swimming in the Dark Water Pond in the late afternoon with our guide, who grew up in the area. It was an incredible moment of communion with nature. Only turtles, birds and Toque macaques shared this delightful occasion with us.
Mihintale Rajamaha Viharaya
This is the site where monk Mahinda met King Devanampiya Tissa of Anuradhapura and converted him to Buddhism. As a result, Mihintale has been associated with the introduction of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. It has also become a pilgrimage destination in the country.
Alms Hall – Monks’ Refectory
This is probably the most interesting of the ruins on the Middle Terrace. The structure was used as the monastery’s refectory. The term Alms Hall refers to the fact that devout Buddhists would donate food to the monks as alms. The most interesting features are two large stone troughs. The one shaped as a canoe was used for rice, and the other for porridge or curry. These ruins are located just beyond the ticket kiosk.
Mihintale Tablets
Just to the right of the refectory, you will see an elevated area once used as a relic house. This area contains two large, engraved stone tablets which are well preserved. The tablets contain the rules for the monastic order.
Ambasthala Dagoba
At the far end of the middle terrace, there is the main stairway to the upper terrace. The imposing granite stairs, lined with frangipani trees, lead you to the Ambasthala Dagoba. This is the most admired stupa in this sacred site. It is believed that Buddha came to this spot during a visit to Anuradhapura, making it one of the holiest places in Sri Lanka. This is also the spot where monk Mahinda tested King Tissa’s wisdom to be assured he was worthy of embracing Buddhism.
There are two other laudable religious points off the upper terrace. At one side is a very tall and impressive Buddha sitting in the teaching position. And, to the other side, there are steps leading up a boulder to the Mahaseya Dagoba. This is the largest dagoba in Mihintale.
We made the mistake of visiting in the middle of the day. While the site was somewhat deserted, the surface of the rock and the pavers around the dagoba were uncomfortably hot to walk barefoot on. Make sure to bring socks if you visit during this time of the day. Once you reach the top you will be rewarded with breathtaking views over lakes and trees all the way to Anuradhapura.
Aradhana Gala
This is the most venerated site within Mihintale, located east of the Ambasthala Dagoba. The top of this large boulder is the actual spot where the monk Mahinda met King Tissa and introduced him to Buddhism. Unfortunately, we did not climb to its peak because the rock was too hot to climb barefoot. But we had a beautiful view of it from the Mahaseya Dagoba.
Where to Stay . . .
There are no major hotels in and around Anuradhapura. You will mostly find small hotels or guest houses. Upscale places like The Forest Rock Garden Resort are further away, requiring a 30-minute drive to Anuradhapura and a 45-minute drive to Mihintale. We opted to stay at the Kubura Resort which was in Anuradhapura. The hotel is small, with only 8 rooms and conveniently located 3 miles from the train station. It only took about 6 minutes to get to the historic sites in Anuradhapura and 25 minutes to reach Mihintale.
Our room was spacious, clean and nicely appointed. Sandaruwan, the owner, was very hospitable and friendly. In fact, he helped us find our driver and guide. The rates were reasonable and included either a Western or a Sri Lankan breakfast. The restaurant was good, very accommodating and great for a quiet meal after a busy day of sightseeing. Throughout our trip in Sri Lanka, we ate most of our meals at the hotels where we stayed because they offered great value and home style cooking.
Worth Every Bit of Time . . .
There is so much history and so many fascinating attractions to visit in Anuradhapura and Mihintale. We strongly recommend spending at least two full days for your visit. In order to cover as many sites as possible in an efficient manner, you should hire a reliable guide and a driver. A visit to this part of Sri Lanka will be worth every bit of time you spend there.
Check our blog for more information about hiring guides and drivers, and other general information about Sri Lanka. Here is the contact information to our guide and driver. The best way to contact them is through WhatsApp.
- Guide: Neel Prasanna, +94 (77) 597-3714
- Driver: Anura Danasiri, +94 (77) 238-2007
Fantastic! Thank you for this thorough guide to this interesting part of Sri Lanka. Although I was for many years a frequent traveler to India for work, I never made it to Sri Lanka, now I know I have to go. Thanks again and best regards to both of you hoping we will reconnect some day.
We’re glad you liked the post. Sri Lanka is indeed an incredible place with lots to explore.