We were ready for another break from COVID-related quarantine and isolation by late summer. Unexpectedly, Saratoga Springs came up on our radar as a great option, with its blend of history, culture and fun. Located in New York’s Hudson River valley, it was famous for its natural mineral springs and horse racing as far back as the 1800’s. Nowadays, this small vibrant city of 28,200 residents has a lot more to offer.
- A Bit of History
- Access to Saratoga Springs
- The Saratoga Spa State Park Springs
- Taking a Dip at Victoria Pool
- Saratoga Springs – Stroll Through the Historic District
- Scenic Congress Park
- Saratoga Springs History Museum
- Saratoga Springs and the Arts
- The Victorian Houses of Saratoga Springs
- A Gastronomic Experience in Saratoga Springs
- Escape to Lake George
- A Jaunt to Olana from Saratoga Springs
A Bit of History
Getting established . . .
Saratoga Springs was established in 1819. As early as 1832 with the arrival of the Saratoga & Schenectady Railroad, the area became a magnet for tourists. And they often came by the thousands. As the mineral springs became well known, developers seized the opportunity to build new hotels and resorts. By the 19th century, Saratoga Springs had become a popular upscale destination with European-style spas used as centers for health and relaxation.
In 1863, the Saratoga Race Course opened adding to the city’s appeal as a summer playground. At the time, horse racing was a popular national spectator sport and gambling was prominent. Unfortunately, the city’s good fortunes declined with the adoption of anti-gambling legislation, the Depression and two World Wars. Saratoga Spring’s glory days as a premier resort were over.
The renaissance . . .
By the 1960’s and 1970’s that Saratoga Springs had a bit of a renaissance. It started with the construction of the Saratoga Performing Arts Center and the renovation of the racetrack. It continued to attract more and more visitors, and the rest is history.
In addition to the city being known for its mineral springs and Thoroughbred racing, it has become a destination for those who love the arts. For instance, the New York City Ballet and the Philadelphia Orchestra take up residence in the city during the summer months. And Opera Saratoga is based here as well. One can attend summer performances of classical music, jazz, pop and rock, country, comedy, dance and opera at the Saratoga Performing Arts Center.
The charming historic district is filled with unique shops, well appointed hotels and award winning restaurants. Saratoga Springs has become the upscale shopping destination for the Albany metropolitan area. Additionally, the city has been home to the Saratoga Springs Water Company, a division of Anheuser-Busch InBev., since 1872. (Think of the recognizable cobalt blue bottles.)
Access to Saratoga Springs
Getting There . . .
Saratoga Springs is easily accessible by car, from north or south, via the Adirondack Northway, Interstate 87. The closest airport is the Albany International Airport (ALB). Albany is only 34 miles away, about a 45-minute drive. New York City is 183 miles south of Saratoga Springs, right on the I-87 north-south axis.
Amtrak offers daily service on its Adirondack and Ethan Ellen Express trains. If you are coming from south of New York City, you may need to transfer between trains. Bus service is available from Greyhound Bus Lines, the Capital District Transportation Authority, and Megabus, depending on your origination. Make sure to check their schedules and availability.
Getting Around . . .
You will need a car to reach several sites once you’re in Saratoga Springs. However, it’s really easy to walk to parks, shops, markets and restaurants if you stay in the Broadway Historic District area. Driving around is painless; being a fairly small city, you rarely run into traffic. But finding a parking street parking in the evenings can be a challenge. Keep in mind that distances are not too far, making the use of Uber or Lyft a fairly economical option.
We found that the Embassy Suites by Hilton offers more value than the hotels on Broadway Avenue. Although the hotel is a bit generic in design, it is in a quiet location only two-blocks from the main strip. The large and modern rooms were thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. Adding to the level of safety, doors were sealed to indicate no one had entered the room once serviced. Through their Hilton Honors App, you can check-in/check-out and use your phone as a digital key for a complete contactless experience. A full breakfast was part of the daily rate.
The Saratoga Spa State Park Springs
This renowned National Historic Landmark is Saratoga Springs’ most prominent attraction. Given the size of the park (2,200 acres), it is easy to social distance while wandering around the site.
The park has several picnic areas with tables and grills, two public golf courses, and several trails for running, walking, biking, and enjoying nature. In the winter, you can cross-country ski or snowshoe on its assortment of trails. Parking is plentiful and there are several restrooms. Sadly some attractions in the park, including the National Museum of Dance, were closed due to the pandemic.
About the springs . . .
Touring the mineral springs is the park’s most popular attraction. Its springs are the result of a geological fault that allows water trapped in shale layers to surface. For decades, thousands of people flocked to the springs seeking the therapeutic benefits of Saratoga’s mineral water. In 1935, the Roosevelt Baths and Spa opened, offering soothing baths and other luxury spa treatments featuring local mineral waters. (The spa was closed during the 2020 summer season due to Covid-19 restrictions.) This splendid building is an example of the neoclassical architecture throughout the park.
In the mean time, companies started to bottle and sell this effervescent water and by the early 1900’s, excessive pumping for commercial bottling threatened to deplete the springs. At one time, over 200 private wells tapped into the springs. In 1911, the New York State Reservation, now the Saratoga Spa State Park, was created to conserve and protect the springs. Eventually, the state of New York took over ownership and operation of the site.
Exploring the springs . . .
Even though springs can be found all over town (usually identified by plaques or small pavilions), most of them are located within the Spa State Park. Of the 21 public mineral springs in the city, 12 of them are located on this enormous site. Each spring has its distinctive tasting water. Some are very strong and unpleasant (with strong sulfur hints) while others are mild and refreshing. The change in seasons also affect the taste of the water. Download a trail map and start your own tasting tour; allow yourself to get lost along the trails and pathways that lead to the springs. Tip: bring a cup so that you can taste the water at each spring.
Saratoga-Spa-Trail-Map-2020_Sejda-CompressThe springs are in different forms and sizes throughout the park. Some springs trickle water out of small crevices carved into the ground while others jet water out of elaborate structures or huge solidified mineral formations. The “State Seal Spring” became the park’s most popular spring. At the time of our visit, people were lined up waiting to fill their empty jugs with its mild tasting water. And, it’s free. (People either social distanced around the spouts or waited in their cars at the adjacent parking lot.)
Select springs . . .
The Polaris Spring is a picturesque small geyser spraying water out of a hardened mineral deposit formation. The Orenda Spring gushes its pungent sulfur smelling water out of a stone block structure with a metal spout. Don’t worry… the cold water may smell like eggs but it doesn’t taste like them. The sulfur gas is in the air and there is very little or no sulfur contained in the water itself.
The largest and most impressive (and very crowded) spring is the Geyser Island Spouter. As its name suggests, its large spout shoots water out of an island of mineral deposits. The colorful porous rock, known as Tufa [too-fa], is accumulated hardened minerals from the spring water. The island is located on Geyser Creek and is accessible to visitors; you can actually go onto the rock formation and walk around the geyser. There is a beautiful path along Geyser Creek that eventually leads to the Orenda Spring.
It’s impossible to explore all of the Saratoga Spa State Park in one visit. It deserves multiple days and return trips if you want to enjoy all that it has to offer.
Taking a Dip at Victoria Pool
If you want to take a break from walking around Saratoga Spa State Park and put your feet up, relax and soak in some sun-rays, I highly recommend a stop at Victoria Pool.
Even though there is an admission fee, Victoria Pool provides a quiet and private setting. Unlike the nearby Peerless Pool Complex that is free to the public, this location attracts fewer visitors and provides an environment where it’s easier to social distance. Both pools were operating at 50 percent capacity during this summer.
Built in 1935 with the support of NY Governor Franklin Roosevelt, Victoria Pool was part of an overall hydrotherapy program. This was in line with the health trend at the time. Classic arched colonnades and a limestone deck surround the pool, which also features lion waterspouts. Currently, due to the prohibitive costs of running the original pool boilers, the water is not heated.
This is the perfect spot for a cooling dip during a hot summer day. Showers, lockers, and restrooms are available on the premises.
Saratoga Springs – Stroll Through the Historic District
This one-mile stretch of Broadway Avenue, considered the downtown of Saratoga Springs, is the center of its activity. This vibrant strip is dotted with beautiful historic buildings, making it a great area for an engaging stroll. Noteworthy architecture includes, for instance, the Adelphi Hotel and the Adirondack Trust Company Building.
You won’t find any “chain stores” here. Instead, the Broadway Historic District is known for its quaint stores providing a unique shopping experience. This bustling neighborhood is also ideal for a quick breakfast, a casual lunch or an elegant dinner, with several options for outdoor seating. Or you can simply grab an ice-cream cone, sit on one of the many seats along the sidewalks, and be entertained by all the street activity.
Off Broadway Avenue . . .
It’s worth to stray off of Broadway to explore some of the architectural gems hidden on the side streets. These include some magnificent historic homes, churches and small commercial buildings.
The Universal Preservation Hall, built in 1871 for the Methodist Church, is a perfect gem. This is one of the earliest and finest examples of High Victorian Gothic architecture in the country. The building went through a recent preservation effort. The structure was restored and converted into a state-of-the-art performance venue with 700 seats. It also houses worship space for the Universal Baptist Church.
Don’t forget to visit the studios and shops in the Beekman Street Arts District. This area is located just a few blocks from Broadway (between Grand Avenue and W. Circular Street). This former residential quarter has brought together an eclectic collection of art galleries. You will also find an interesting assortment of specialty boutiques and eateries.
There is a visitor center at the south end of the Broadway Historic District. However, the center is closed until further notice due to Covid-19 restrictions. The building is a historic landmark designed in the Beaux-Arts style and is worth seeing. Built in 1915 as a trolley station for the Hudson Valley Railway Company, it was considered the gateway to the city.
Scenic Congress Park
Located in the heart of Saratoga Springs on the south end of the Broadway Historic District, this scenic 32-acre public park is great for some fun and relaxation. A favorite spot for locals and tourists alike, its lush gardens are perfect for picnicking or relaxing on a blanket.
Congress Park has beautiful ponds, memorials, statues, lots of wild ducks, and a historic wooden carousel. (The carousel was closed during the 2020 summer season due to the pandemic.) And, there are trails for walking, running or simply enjoying an afternoon saunter.
The Park is also home to some mineral springs: Hathorn Spring One (at the northeast corner of Putnam and Spring Streets), Congress Spring (underneath the covered pavilion), Deer Park Spring (near Broadway Ave., at the green and white cast iron monument), and the Columbian Spring (near Congress Street and Broadway Ave.). Make sure to bring a cup so that you can sample the waters of Saratoga.
Saratoga Springs History Museum
Founded in 1883 as the Saratoga Historical Society, the current museum is located inside the historic Canfield Casino in Congress Park. Its mission is to chronicle the social, political, economic, geological and cultural history of the “Spa City”, as Saratoga Springs came to be known. The permanent exhibits include an introduction to the city’s history, the Canfield Casino High Stakes Gambling Room, and the Walworth Memorial Museum on the third floor.
The Canfield Casino, listed as a National Historic Landmark, is an architectural jewel. Originally built in the 1870’s as the exclusive Saratoga Club House, it attracted wealthy and prominent gamblers worldwide. However, neither women nor locals were allowed in the gambling rooms at the time. By the early 1900’s, people thought of Saratoga Springs as America’s Monte Carlo. But this fortunate period didn’t last long. The rise of anti-gambling sentiments caused the casino to close in 1907. Consequently, the village purchased the property in 1911.
The museum is only open Friday – Sunday from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM. The museum follows Covid-19 safety protocols, including requiring face masks and social distancing.
Saratoga Springs and the Arts
In addition to its rich history, mineral springs and horses, Saratoga Springs places a considerable emphasis on the arts. Besides having a unique collection of art galleries and prominent performing arts venues, the town contains notable public art such as the colorful sculptures of horses and ballet pointe slippers found throughout the town. This is a perfect example of how the city uses art as an innovative promotional tool.
Paying homage to the city’s horse racing history, “Horses Saratoga Style” became a two-part public art event organized by the Saratoga County Arts Council and the YMCA of Saratoga. The first event was held in 2002 and the second in 2007. The project called for artists to design more than 30 fiberglass horse sculptures. The art was displayed throughout the city and then auctioned off. To this day, several of these delightful sculptures remain in the streets of Saratoga for the public to enjoy.
Dance has also been another prevalent art form in Saratoga Springs’ diverse cultural offerings. Since the ‘60’s, the New York City Ballet has spent its summer seasons here and in the ‘80s, the National Museum of Dance & Hall of Fame opened. Over the years, famous dancers such as Fred Astaire, George Balanchine, Alvin Ailey and Isadora Duncan have been inducted into this prestigious one-of-a-kind hall of fame. So it was fitting that “Saratoga En Pointe” became another successful public art project in the Spa City.
The National Museum of Dance conceived the project. The Museum, with the support of sponsors, invited a diverse group of regional artists to participate. The goal was to create 24, 5-foot high pointe shoe fiberglass sculptures to be displayed throughout Saratoga Springs. This was certainly another ingenious way for the city to promote culture.
The Victorian Houses of Saratoga Springs
If you like magnificent Victorian architecture, search no more. Victorian homes are all over Saratoga Springs and tracking them down is a really fun way to explore the town. There are a total of eight historic districts, some of which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Saratoga Springs has an incredible variety of historic buildings. Their architectural styles include Greek Revival, Italianate, Romanesque, Queen Anne, High Victorian Gothic, Colonial Revival, Federal, Second Empire and Tudor.
Many of these “cottages”, as these splendid mansions were called in the 19th century, were associated with the prosperity brought about by the racetrack. Socially prominent families, who considered Saratoga Springs a seasonal resort, built a considerable number of these homes in the 1800’s. Nowadays, they serve as a reminder of the luxurious life of wealthy families during that era.
The façades on the grand residences are rich in intricate details, giving a nod perhaps to the family status in those days. Many have porches in all shapes and sizes with unique columns, balustrades and decorative details such as brackets, friezes and cornices.
Mansions flank the streets of North Broadway and Union Avenue Historic Districts. By comparison, the structures of the East Side and Franklin Square (West Side) Historic Districts reflected the day-to-day reality of people from all walks of life. As middle and upper class merchant families prospered, they developed less stately (but equally beautiful) homes as year-round residences.
Guided tours . . .
If you happen to visit the city on Mother’s Day, you should join the annual springtime Historic Homes Tour organized by the Saratoga Springs Preservation Foundation. (Incidentally, the Foundation postponed the 2020 tour due to the Coronavirus.) This will be your opportunity to explore the inside of some of these stately homes.
Here are links to maps for the self-guided tours we took. We enjoyed 3-1/2 hours of driving, walking and taking photos on a beautiful afternoon.
- East Side Historic District
- Franklin Square Historic District (West Side)
- North Broadway Historic District
A Gastronomic Experience in Saratoga Springs
Saratoga Springs is a great destination for foodies alike. There is an exceptional diversity in cuisines to satisfy all tastes. One additional advantage is the number of choices for outdoor seating. There are a myriad of safe outdoor settings on porches, gardens, sidewalks, and even blocked streets. Here are some of our faves:
Mrs. London’s Bakery & Café
We entered this French-style boutique bakery and almost felt like we were in a little shop in France. A husband/wife team started this extremely popular business over 40 years ago. They bake beautiful pastries and delectable desserts. If you’re anything like us, you will have a hard time controlling your temptations. This is a perfect option for breakfast, lunch or an afternoon treat.
The Custard Rum Raisin and the Almond Croissant are heavenly; and the Hazelnut Crème Slice makes for a decadent mid-afternoon snack. The café offers lunch menu options that include the classic Croque-Monsieur with ham and Gruyere cheese. Ooh là là !!!
Putnam Market
Located on Broadway, this is a good option if you want a quick, inexpensive casual lunch. This family-owned business has been selling delicious food and wines for over 20 years. The menu is varied and extensive, including gourmet sandwiches, prepared foods, salads, soups and desserts.
Once you grab your order from the pick-up counter, you can sit at one of the sidewalk tables in front of the market. The place gets busy, so make sure to wear your mask and keep your social distance while waiting for your grub. You can also order online if you want to minimize the amount of time you spend inside the market.
The Patio at 15 Church
Sitting next to the original restaurant (15 Church), this is a perfect choice if you want to dine al fresco. It has a great ambiance, including a tiled water fountain wall, exposed grey-washed timber beams, a retractable roof, and plenty of space to social distance.
The Modern American restaurant’s menu focuses on coastal New England fare and also has a raw bar. And, the specialty cocktail list is inventive and extensive. Warning! Don’t let the menu high prices fool you. Our meal turned out to be a really good value. The portions on the small and large plates were quite generous, making it a perfect occasion to share dishes.
We each had one small plate and shared a large plate. By the time we finished we were so full that we couldn’t order dessert. Of course, having two servings of their savory, warm rustic bread sprinkled with Parmesan cheese didn’t help… but it was irresistible.
The Peach & Heirloom Tomato Panzanella with homemade mozzarella and the Korean Crispy Shrimp with poke sauce, sriracha aioli and Fresno chilis were exquisite. The miso glazed Chilean Sea Bass with shiitake mushrooms and toasted sesame was mouthwatering.
Service was exceptional. And, their menu changes seasonally, so there is always a reason to return.
Hamlet & Ghost
If you are looking for a hip and creative dining experience, this is your destination. While you can make reservations for inside tables, the outdoor seats are first-come-first-serve. We opted to wait for an outside table as we try to avoid eating indoors during the current coronavirus pandemic. Surprisingly, the wait for a table ended up being much shorter than expected.
This memorable restaurant offers an inspiring food menu, an inventive craft cocktail list, and an extensive number of wines and beers. We loved its take on the Pimms Cup and the Gin-Gin Fizz (gin and ginger); it was hard not to over do it. The server was knowledgeable and the service was top notch.
The menu is divided into four categories – snacks, small plates, large plates and specials. We ended up trying three of their small plates: the Shrimp with Mole and Chile Oil over a handmade tostada, the Ahi Poke with seaweed, avocado and a homemade savory sriracha, and the Polenta “Elote” with chipotle crema, cotija and lime. They were all scrumptious. The Duck Fat French Fries on the adjacent table looked amazing.
We also shared one entrée (large plate) – Pan Seared Scallops & Faro with perfectly cooked asparagus and mustard greens – which was splendid. Our options were perfect and the plating was impeccable.
To top it off, we finished with the luscious Triple Coconut Cake with caramelized white chocolate and coconut buttercream. It was worth the indulgence despite the fact that we left feeling like we had eaten too much.
We think this restaurant was a winner and highly recommend it.
Escape to Lake George
For a change of pace and scenery, I highly recommend a day-trip to Lake George, nicknamed the “Queen of American Lakes” due to its sparkly clear waters and unforgettable vistas. The lake is only 27 miles north of Saratoga Springs, an easy 35-minute drive via I-87.
Located in the New York Adirondacks, Lake George is 32 miles long and has over 170 islands – some available for camping and some privately owned. You will not regret experiencing the majestic nature in this region. No wonder families have been coming here for generations; it’s a great place to escape and enjoy the outdoors.
We didn’t find Lake George Village very interesting. However, we were totally impressed by the magnificent wilderness around the lake. The scenic drive along the lake shores is worth the visit. Given its size, it can take up to 10 hours to contour the entire lake. Due to our limited time, we decided to explore along Route 9L on the east side and then do the same on Route 9N, the west side. Our excursion took about 2.5 hours which included stops to marvel at the surroundings and snap photos. Check out recommended scenic routes here.
The east and west shores . . .
The area along the lake’s east shore has some magnificent houses and marinas. The imposing beauty and tranquility made us feel as if we were far removed from any commercial development. We also explored some of the residential areas, winding on the streets along the water. There are plenty of photo ops here.
The west shore is also very panoramic even though it seems more commercial. There are numerous motels and rustic cabins on the lakefront properties, along with some camping grounds and RV parks. Lake Shore Drive (Route 9N) leads to the quaint hamlet of Bolton Landing – a charming lakeside town that is home to The Sagamore. This historic hotel, which is actually on an island (Green Island), has magnificent grounds and breathtaking water views.
If you have time to spare, you can take a tour of Lake George aboard a steamboat cruise leaving out of Lake George Village, or you can enjoy some relaxing time at Million Dollar Beach. The beach has plenty of parking, restrooms, a bathhouse facility and is attended by a lifeguard.
A Jaunt to Olana from Saratoga Springs
Do not miss this destination! Even though it’s a bit further way from Saratoga Springs (70 miles / 1h 20 min. drive), a visit to the Olana State Historic Site is another great opportunity for a day trip. Or make sure to include it on your itinerary if you are heading south.
Frederic Edwin Church established this 250-acre stately historic landmark during the 19th century in the Hudson River Valley. A renowned Hudson River School landscape painter, Church developed this stunning property as his family’s home. The estate is a study in the integration of architecture, art, landscape design and environmental conservation. Church spent forty years perfecting his vision for this masterpiece.
More than five miles of carriage roads traverse Olana’s grounds, now used by pedestrians, making this is a perfect site to go hiking, running or walking your dog (leashed of course). There are also many ideal spots to picnic while soaking in the beautiful surroundings or appreciating the panoramic views. Church was meticulous as he planned every aspect of the premises.
The architectural design . . .
Built on the highest point of the property, the main house has incredible vistas of the Taconic Hills, the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains. At the time, the Churches took a trip to the Middle East, and acquired their inspiration for the Persian-style architecture used in the design. As a result, the building incorporates architectural elements such as towers, balconies, porches, pointed arches, intricate brick patterns and elaborate stenciled adornments on the roof.
Access to the grounds is free and open to the public from 8AM until sunset. But in order to visit the main house, you must pay a fee for either guided or self-guided tours. Make sure to confirm availability and special requirements related to Covid-19 restrictions.
