Welcome to a little bit of heaven in the Cyclades! Amorgos is a captivating Greek island that has managed to preserve its pristine allure. It is part of the Cyclades island group, located in the Aegean Sea. Amorgos is somewhat off the beaten path, largely untouched by the masses of tourists that flock to other destinations. We were surprised with how this relatively large island (the 7th largest of the 220 Cyclades islands) has remained a well-kept secret. With its dramatic towering mountains and unspoiled beaches providing an enchanting backdrop, Amorgos is indeed very special. And, unlike its more popular counterparts, Amorgos feels authentic and serene, a testament to the locals’ commitment to preserving its untouched beauty.
Traveling to Amorgos
Enchanting Amorgos is only accessible by sea. The island has two welcoming ports, Katapola and Aegeali, which are about 22 km from each other. If you’re embarking from Athens, Hellenic Seaways provides an excellent high-speed ferry, ensuring a faster voyage, but the journey still takes approximately six hours. During the trip, the ferry stops at the islands of Paros, Naxos, and Koufonisia, before arriving in Amorgos. The ticket price for this voyage is €85.50 per person.
This is a large vessel with nicely designed interiors, comfortable assigned seats, and multiple cafés selling drinks and snacks. The more economical but slightly longer voyage available by Blue Star Ferries adds an additional two hours to your travel time. When traveling from other islands, ferryhopper.com is a valuable resource to explore additional route options.
Getting Around Amorgos
Navigating the landscapes of Amorgos is an essential part of experiencing this island’s beauty. While public buses are an option for getting around, the most convenient and reliable choice is to rent a vehicle. Keep in mind that Amorgos stretches 32 kilometers in length and features significant elevation changes due to its dominating mountainous terrain. For that reason, a car, scooter, or quad becomes your key to exploring the island. Renting a vehicle not only provides the freedom to explore at your own pace but also eliminates the need to adhere to bus schedules.
We opted for a car rental with Étoile de Mer, located in Katapola, a family-owned business managed by the friendly local brothers, Yannis and Yorgos. Our compact Peugeot came at a reasonable daily rate of €46, including insurance.
Staying in Amorgos
Selecting the right place to stay in Amorgos can greatly enhance your experience. And understanding the island geography is key. The three main villages, Chora, Katapola, and Aegiali, offer most of the accommodations. But it’s essential to align your lodging choice with your port of arrival. This simple consideration can save you precious time and energy. In addition, we prefer to stay where we can walk to bars and restaurants. That meant not staying in remote parts of Amorgos.
For those arriving in Katapola, as we did, staying in this charming harbor village is a wise choice. Katapola is easily accessible on foot and by car, making it a convenient hub to explore. Moreover, Katapola comes alive in the evenings with a plethora of dining options along the picturesque waterfront, creating a delightful atmosphere. Chora, the island’s main village, although enchanting, poses a challenge with parking restrictions. As a result, that may not align with a smooth arrival experience, given the need to navigate hilly, narrow, stone-paved alleyways. Another option, Aegiali, offers accessibility but it was not the best choice for us given our port of arrival.
Our Selection
We were happy to have booked one of the Saint George Valsamitis Hotel properties for our Amorgos adventure. However, we did not stay in the main hotel building; instead, we opted for their ‘Luxury Suite’ at the opposite end of Katapola Harbor. It turned out to be a cozy haven that blurred the lines between a traditional hotel and the comfort of an apartment. The spaciousness and ideal location of our accommodation were true highlights, allowing us to unwind while savoring the island’s charm. We were greeted by Petros, the friendly and informative owner, upon our arrival at the port and walked together to the property which was nearby.
A favorite memory of our stay was sipping wine on the balcony during the enchanting sunset, all while being entertained by the lively evening activity along the harbor. To top it off, the serenade of street musicians performing across the way made our stay magical.
Visiting Amorgos
Every corner in Amorgos bursts with unique charm. From the enchanting villages that seem frozen in time to the awe-inspiring topography of rugged mountains, the island has plenty waiting to be discovered. Marvel at the grandeur of its historic monastery perched on cliffs, immerse yourself in the local culture, and meander through winding alleyways. And let’s not forget the dreamy beaches that invite you to soak up the Mediterranean sun or explore the crystal-clear waters. Amorgos promises adventures for every traveler seeking a touch of Greek magic. Here are some of the things to do in Amorgos:
Tour the Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa
The Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa is an awe-inspiring testament to both architectural marvel and spiritual devotion. On the cliffs of Amorgos, this iconic eight-story narrow structure, seemingly plucked from the pages of a fairy tale, has a history dating back to the 11th century. The monastery is the second oldest in Greece. Carved into the side of a mountain, its unique construction is a sight to behold. To reach this sacred haven, visitors must embark on a climb of about 300 steps along a stone path that can be somewhat steep. However, the rewards far outweigh the effort.
You can park your car at the small lot just outside the entrance gate. This is where you will start your climb towards the monastery. There is a strict dress code for both men and women. Should you arrive in attire that is not deemed appropriate, fret not, as complimentary long sweatpants and skirts are available. These garments are tied to the fence next to the steps leading to the building entrance. The inside visit is quick as the building is small. But before you leave, friendly volunteers offer a shot of raki liquor and a taste of Loukoumi, a traditional sweet. The panoramic views of the Aegean and the surrounding landscape along the path and from the monastery are simply breathtaking. While entry to the monastery is free, donations are appreciated. To beat the heat and climb in cooler temperatures, plan your visit during the afternoon hours.
Roam Enchanting Chora
The medieval village of Chora [Haw_ra] is a timeless treasure that transports visitors to a bygone era. Most Cycladic islands have a Chora, which is typically the oldest settlement of the island. Amorgos’ Chora dates to the 7th century and proudly stands as the capital of the island. Perched on the island’s central mountains, the village’s charm lies in its intricate labyrinth of narrow alleyways. Here, you’ll discover an abundance of inviting shops, lively bars, quaint cafés, and welcoming restaurants.
Chora’s architecture reflects the traditional Cycladic style with graceful, whitewashed buildings adorned with colorful doors and windows. Vibrant bursts of bougainvillea add to the picturesque setting. The fun of exploring Chora is to simply wander around and get lost in its maze. Old windmills, perched on top of a mountain above the village, add to the beautiful surrounding landscape. This is a great spot to enjoy a beautiful sunset and a magnificent view of the Aegean Sea. For those with a penchant for history, Chora is home to a couple of interesting museums—the Folklore Museum and the Archaeological Museum of Amorgos. There is a large parking lot next to the village entrance where you can leave your car.
Discover the Kastro
The Venetian Kastro, also known as the Castle, is situated on a colossal rock at the heart of Chora. This is another iconic spot in Amorgos. Its construction dates to the 13th century with its primary purpose of protecting the village from pirate raids. Although only remnants of its structure remain, the Kastro continues to serve as a symbol of the past. Its prominent position makes it easily visible from most points in Chora. To access it you’ll need to obtain a key from one of the shops or cafés, near one of different paths leading to its entrance. Just ask any of the shops for a key. They are likely to have one.
An intimidating steep and narrow stairwell, with low railings, leads to the Kastro’s entrance. That alone may make you wonder if the climb is worth the effort. In short, the answer is a resounding yes! The reward for your ascent is a magnificent bird’s-eye view of Chora, the surrounding mountains, and the Aegean Sea. The panorama from this vantage point is nothing short of breathtaking. There’s no charge to enter; all you need to do is leave your ID as collateral until you return the borrowed key.
Chill in Katapola
The village of Katapola, located on the edge of Katapola Bay, is the vibrant main port and gateway of Amorgos. When one speaks of Katapola, it’s impossible not to include Xylokeratidi, a small settlement across the bay from Katapola. It feels like an organic extension of Katapola, just a short and scenic walk away, offering delightful options for drinks and meals along the water’s edge.
Katapola itself is a quaint village that thrives with activity along its bustling port area, which is the village’s allure. Beyond serving as a hub for ferries, the port hosts a constant ebb and flow of boats arriving, departing, or docking for the night. The village’s charm is reflected in its narrow pedestrian stone-paved streets and alleyways that wind their way up the hill. However, Katapola comes to life in the evening, with its numerous cafés and traditional tavernas. It’s a place that offers a rich tapestry of flavors, where one can unwind and savor the rhythms of Amorgos.
Enjoy Amorgos’ Topography
Amorgos is undoubtedly defined by its dramatic topography. Amorgos’ mountains are not merely a geographical feature but an intrinsic part of the island’s soul, with unparalleled views. Its towering mountains command your attention wherever you go on the island. When driving from one side of Amorgos to the other, you’ll embark on drives that take you up and over these steep, majestic mountains. The scenic routes, often carved along the mountainsides, provide travelers with awe-inspiring vistas. These include the island’s rugged rock formations, lush vegetation, and the glistening coastline that kisses its shores.
Another element that makes these mountain drives unforgettable is the delightful sightings of the island’s mountain goats. These agile creatures gracefully traverse the slopes, adding an extra touch of magic to the mesmerizing landscape. It’s nearly impossible not to pull over and capture the sheer magnificence of these settings with your camera.
Wander Around Aegiali
The village of Aegiali is a coastal haven in the northern shores of Amorgos. Home to the island’s second port, Aegiali is situated about 20 kilometers north of Katapola. Visitors will find a more relaxed atmosphere and an opportunity to enjoy the serene beauty of the Cyclades. The village has the quintessential Cycladic charm with its whitewashed buildings and cobblestone alleys that wind through the town.
Aegiali’s crowning jewel is its long sandy beach. Along this pristine shoreline, you’ll discover an array of bars, cafés, and tavernas. There are plenty of choices where you can savor the island’s culinary treasures under the soothing sounds of the waves. Beyond the village itself, Aegiali serves as a gateway to the northern small hillside villages of Langada, Tholaria, and Potamo. Undoubtedly the village will offer travelers a blend of seaside serenity and vibrant local life.
Inspect the Olympia Wreck
The Olympia shipwreck, located in Liveros Bay, has become one of the most photographed spots in Amorgos. This iconic commercial vessel sunk in 1980. Its popularity increased especially after being used as a filming location for the French cult film “The Big Blue” by Luc Besson. Travelers can easily spot it on their way to Kalotaritissa Beach from the road that runs along this pristine stretch of Amorgos coastline. There is a trail that leads from the road down to the edge of the water if you want to take a closer glimpse of it.
Exploring Beaches in Amorgos
Kalotaritissa Beach
Kalotaritissa Beach is located within the southern reaches of Amorgos. Tucked within a picturesque bay, this sandy and pebbly shoreline enjoys the protection from winds and waves. As a result, it creates a haven of tranquility that remains uncrowded even during the peak of summer. Kalotaritissa has crystal-clear turquoise waters that are perfect for a refreshing dip. The bay’s natural charm is further enhanced by the many boats that dock in its protected waters.
For those seeking relaxation, a beach café offers the comfort of chaises and umbrellas for rent at a reasonable €10 for the day. Accessible by car with ample parking, Kalotaritissa Beach invites you to escape the crowds and experience the untouched beauty of Amorgos. But be sure to carry sufficient cash as the café’s remote location occasionally hinders credit card transactions due to limited WiFi connectivity.
Aghios Pavlos Beach
Tucked away in the northwestern corner of Amorgos, Agios Pavlos Beach is a hidden gem awaiting discovery. Located 8 kilometers south of Aegiali, this intimate pebbly shoreline is a testament to the island’s unspoiled beauty. There is a restaurant serving delectable local cuisine and other refreshments. The restaurant also provides the comfort of sunbeds and umbrellas for those seeking leisure by the shore. But what truly sets Agios Pavlos apart is its shallow, crystal-clear turquoise waters, a paradise for swimmers and snorkelers. Gazing across the bay, the beach offers unobstructed views of the islet of Nikouria, adding a touch of magic to this Amorgos oasis.
Nikouria Beach
This was our favorite beach due to its beauty and breathtaking views. Nikouria Beach is a hidden gem off the coast of Amorgos, across from Agios Pavlos Beach. This uninhabited small island can only be reached by boat. There are departures conveniently available every half hour from Agios Pavlos Beach across the bay. The boat to Nikouria makes two stops: the first, at a rocky enclave used for sunbathing and impromptu dips in the crystalline waters; the second, at a popular, long sandy shoreline.
The affordable round-trip boat ride is priced at just €5. The journey takes about 20 minutes each way. The refreshing turquoise waters are hard to resist and so is the incredible view of Amorgos’ rugged mountains. Although amenities are minimal, a small snack bar has drinks, sandwiches, and snacks for sale. For those craving extra comfort, chaises and umbrellas are available for rent at just €5 per person.
Aegiali Beach
Stretching almost a kilometer in length, Aegiali Beach offers a generous expanse of sand and sea to embrace beach lovers. And due to its vast size, the largest in Amorgos, this popular beach seems to remain uncrowded. This was not our favorite beach, but we still had an enjoyable day by the ocean. The beachfront is lined with a wealth of infrastructure, including numerous cafés, bars, and tavernas to choose from. Many of these establishments extend an offer of complimentary chairs and umbrellas if you order from their menu. We chose to recline under the cooling shade of the big trees at Ammos Beach Bar, sipping on refreshing drinks throughout the day.
While surrounded by the stunning view of Aegiali Bay, the inviting shallow azure waters are perfect for swimmers and families with kids. In addition, the village center is just a short stroll away, adding convenience to the list of delights this beach offers.
Maltezi Beach
Looking for a picturesque haven near Katapola? Maltezi Beach is your answer. This short idyllic stretch of shoreline isn’t accessible by car. Instead, a boat ride from the port of Katapola is the ideal way to reach its shores. The round-trip boat journey costs €5. The boat also makes a stop at Plakes Beach, a spot with flat rocks for sunbathing and swimming. For those who prefer to walk, there’s a hiking trail that begins in Xylokeratidi. However, the 30 to 40-minute walk might seem a bit daunting on a hot summer day.
This beach has fine sand and inviting blue-green waters, making it one of Amorgos’ most popular destinations. The beach has a convenient beach bar, offering chairs and umbrellas for rent in addition to drinks and snacks. Maltezi Beach isn’t particularly large and the number of chairs is limited. We recommend arriving before noon if you want to secure a spot for a day of sun-soaked relaxation.
Finding Bars in Amorgos
Whether you’re seeking a sunset drink or an after-dinner libation, Amorgos offers bars that cater to all tastes. With an array of options scattered across its charming villages, you’re sure to find the perfect spot to unwind, socialize, and raise a glass to the island’s enchanting atmosphere. Here are some of the ones we tried:
Botilia Cocktail Bar
Botilia Cocktail Bar is a great spot for a drink with a view. This quaint establishment is tucked away amidst the enchanting streets of Chora. The bar has a charming outdoor area where you can savor sunset cocktails in a quiet atmosphere. The backdrop of Chora’s iconic windmills adds a touch of magic to your evening. Botilia is the ideal spot to unwind and sip your favorite concoctions.
Jazzmin Café and Bar
This is another great choice for sunset drinks in a serene setting. Jazzmin is located down the steps from Chora’s main street. Its building has an upper terrace that also provides enchanting views of Chora’s windmills. It’s a perfect place to relish your evening cocktails as the sun dips below the horizon. We loved its quaint ambiance and the mesmerizing backdrop.
Moon Bar
Moon Bar in Xylokeratidi, near Katapola, is a true gem for an unforgettable evening drink. Its outdoor tables, situated by the water’s edge, provide an astonishing nocturnal vista. From this vantage point, you can enjoy the mesmerizing view of Katapola Bay, with the village of Katapola shimmering across the way. Moon Bar stands out as one of our favorites. It’s a great place to enjoy the magic of Amorgos by night.
Eating in Amorgos
Amorgos’ restaurants offer a unique combination of fresh ingredients, local tradition and modern culinary influences. Following are some of our favorites:
Tranzistoraki
You will find Tranzistoraki Taverna in the heart of Chora. This is a culinary gem that entices guests to indulge in an exceptional gastronomic journey. With tables lining both sides of the bustling narrow main street and the constant flow of visitors, the taverna offers an outstanding dining experience. Originally established by two cousins from Amorgos, the taverna blends traditional Greek cuisine with a modern Amorgian twist. Our culinary adventure began with a inspirational Baby Spinach Salad adorned with delicate phyllo sheets, sesame, and dill oil, setting the tone for the unique flavors that lay ahead.
The star of the show was the Savory Cheesecake, an intriguing creation featuring a handmade spicy Amorgian soft cheese. For the main course, we indulged in the Orzo “Risotto Style” with Braised Veal that burst with bold flavors. A complementary serving of Lemon Mousse provided a sweet finale. Tranzistoraki was unforgettable. This is a popular restaurant and if you show up without a reservation, you may have a long wait for a table. We gave them our name and went down the street to another bar for drinks until they texted when our table was ready.
Youkali Amorgos
Situated on the picturesque edge of Katapola Bay in Xylokeratidi, Youkali is a culinary treasure. Renowned as one of the island’s finest dining establishments, this restaurant offers a blend of simplicity and exquisite Greek cuisine. The magic of Youkali lies in its dedication to elevating traditional Greek dishes with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The menu has seafood, meat, and vegetarian options, ensuring there’s something for everyone.
We started with the Ospriada, a delightful medley of beans, chickpeas, lentils, wheat, and split peas adorned with chunks of smoked mackerel. The Baked Spicy Feta, with its artful balance of spices, was delicious. Grilled Sardine Fillets, perfectly cooked and seasoned, was simple and tasty. And the Seafood Linguini with fresh mussels, garlic, and parsley, showcased Youkali’s cooking excellence. With each dish, this restaurant demonstrates why it is considered a jewel in the heart of Katapola Bay.
Naftilia (Prekas)
Naftilia, also known as Prekas, is a testament to the culinary history of Katapola. What began as a Kafeneio in the 1950s, where locals gathered to play cards and discuss politics, has since evolved into a beloved taverna that draws fishermen, residents, and tourists alike. Stepping inside Naftilia is like stepping back in time. To this day the interiors are decorated with a treasure trove of old memorabilia, providing a nostalgic glimpse into a bygone era. This taverna offers a rare opportunity to savor an authentic Greek home-cooked meal, prepared with time-honored recipes.
During our visit, we had a quick meal at Naftilia, sampling the flavors that have made this taverna an institution. The Greek Salad, featuring Xynomytzithra goat cheese, a local staple, offered a refreshing and tangy start to our dinner. Following this, we indulged in traditional Stuffed Cabbage Rolls in lemon sauce. This dish encapsulated the essence of home-cooked Greek comfort food. Naftilia excels in simplicity, delivering delicious flavors that pay homage to the island’s culinary traditions.
Fata Morgana
Fata Morgana is a hip restaurant that promises an unforgettable dining experience in Amorgos. Located along the water’s edge in Xylokeratidi, its outdoor dining area offers a great ambiance and a mesmerizing night view of the village of Katapola. Our visit to Fata Morgana was nothing short of remarkable, as we savored one of our finest meals on the island. The menu is a testament to the restaurant’s creative flair, offering a modern twist on traditional Greek cuisine. We began with the Tzatziki and Artichoke Salad and Smoked Pork, a bold combination that was tweaked to perfection.
We continued our culinary adventure with the Sausage and Fried Giant Beans, crowned with a harmonious sun-dried tomato cream. The pièce de résistance was the Pork Shoulder, slow cooked overnight in a tantalizing blend of soy sauce and honey, served alongside grilled carrots and celery root purée. The braised pork simply melted in our mouths. Fata Morgana proved to be not only a delightful gastronomic journey but also a fun and mesmerizing culinary experience.
Kastanis Taverna
This Amorgos taverna captures the essence of Greek cuisine in an enchanting Cycladic setting. Located on the main street of charming Chora, it excels on dishes based on traditional recipes. The menu at Kastanis Taverna includes seafood, local meats, and dairy products. The flavors of Amorgos are present in every bite.
We stopped by for lunch and were charmed by this delightful eatery. We began with a Greek Salad, crowned with local Xynomytzithra cheese. The freshness of the ingredients was undeniable. We continued with a simple yet perfectly executed classic dish of Spicy Meatballs and Fries, smothered in a tangy tomato sauce. Kastanis Taverna turned out to be a delicious culinary haven.
Mavros Bakery
Mavros Bakery in Katapola, is great for a quick and inexpensive breakfast. Here flavors and aromas blend to start your day on a delicious note. Its Greek freddo cappuccino is the perfect morning pick-me-up. The assortment of croissants, baked pastries, and traditional Greek pies are delicious. The Bougatsa (cream pie) was a personal favorite. You will have a lot of options whether you’re seeking a quick morning bite or an afternoon snack for the beach.
Authentic and Captivating Amorgos
Our visit to Amorgos was a journey with captivating experiences. We loved the pristine beaches and charming villages in this unspoiled Cyclades gem. Its breathtaking landscapes were impressive, and the island’s cuisine delighted our taste buds. The warm and welcoming locals and bewitching sunsets contributed to making Amorgos a destination dear to our hearts. By the time we left the island we were already longing to return to this authentic and unspoiled island. This is a haven where tranquility and natural splendor intertwine in perfect harmony.
Amei as dicas e vou usá-las. Estava procurando blogs ou Instagram que me fornecesse passeios nos quais se conheça as pessoas que lá moram com suas características típicas q agregue valor. Finalmente vcs surgiram
Que bom que gostou! Me diz se tiver alguma dúvida quando planejar sua viagem.
Thank you for sharing your experience! That was awesome! Beautiful pictures and excellent commentary!
I’m so glad you enjoyed it. Amorgos is an amazing island.
Pedro