One cannot think of Greece without immediately envisioning the Greek islands. And usually, people think of the more popular Greek islands in the Aegean Sea. Who has not heard of Mykonos or Santorini? However, in addition to the Aegean Greek islands, Greece has beautiful islands in the Ionian Sea (west of mainland Greece) and in the Saronic Gulf (northeast of the Peloponnese region).
We are always searching for new destinations and options where we can enjoy incredible surroundings without being overrun by tourists or breaking the bank. So, during our month-long visit to Greece this summer, we decided to explore a couple of the Saronic Islands – Spetses and Hydra.
The Appeal of the Saronic Islands
The Saronic Islands are the closest ones to Athens. Their proximity to the Greek capital makes them ideal destinations for Athenians looking to enjoy summer holidays or a quick weekend getaway. These islands are also perfect for those who want to avoid long boat trips. Travel time by ferry from the port of Piraeus is only a couple of hours. And if you are short on time, you can explore the the Saronic Islands as a day trip. In addition, these islands tend to be less expensive than some of the larger and more popular ones. They were a perfect choice for us as we longed for some chill time away from the city.
SPETSES
This Saronic Island is small, quiet and ideal for unwinding and relaxing. Our timing was great. We were lucky to visit Spetses in late June/early July, before the high season kicked in. We noticed that most of the visitors were Greek, with just a small percentage of international travelers.
Cars are not allowed to be brought to the island (with very few exceptions), making Spetses Town a charming place to explore on foot. The town has some beautiful old buildings, including some lovely old mansions. There are many restaurants and tavernas along the water, making it easy to enjoy the evening by the seaside. The Old Harbor was our favorite area in the evenings. It is quaint and a great location for a drink during sunset.
Other than walking, the best way to explore the island and its secluded beaches is by scooter or electric bicycle. Riding a scooter is a fun way to get around the island; but if you don’t feel comfortable on a scooter, you can rent a quad (ATV). Having a scooter allowed us to see the entire island, experience its varied terrains, and hang out on more secluded beaches.
Here are recommendations to our favorite places:
Beaches
Agia Paraskevi Beach
This secluded beach is in a sheltered cove on the west coast, about 10 km from Spetses Town. The beach is part sand and part gravel, has chairs and umbrellas for rent, and a snack bar. The water is calm like a pool and ideal for swimming.
Kaiki Beach
Kaiki is the most popular beach close to Spetses Town. It has chaises and umbrellas for rental, restaurants and bars, and music giving it a livelier vibe. We paid €17 to rent two chairs and towels, an umbrella and a large bottle of water. (€35 will get you two cushy day beds and two chaises that accommodate four people.) Menus include plenty of beverage and food options. We had a delicious Greek Salad for lunch.
Agioi Anargiri Beach
Located on the southwestern coast, this is one of the largest beaches on the island. The beach is in a cove, offers rental chairs and umbrellas, and is ideal for water sports. Its claim to fame is that Bekiri’s Cave is adjacent to it. There is a walking path that begins at the northern end of the beach that leads to the cave. Swimming in the cave’s astounding interior was very cool. The cave also has an entrance from the sea which allows for access by a small boat or by swimming.
Xilokeriza Beach
This sandy pebbly beach is on the southeastern part of Spetses. It is quiet and has beautiful clear water. We paid only €10 to rent two chairs and an umbrella for the day but had to bring our own towels. There is a local taverna serving food and beverages. The Souvlaki cost us €2.50 and a Greek salad, big enough to be shared, cost us €8.
Agia Marina Beach
Head to Agia Marina for a more upscale beach experience. The beach is popular since it’s easily accessed and only 2 km away from town. Prices here are a bit “more upscale” as well: the set of two chaises and an umbrella on the first row, closest to the water, goes for €35; the second and third rows cost €25 for the same set up. The price includes beach towels and two bottles of water. Background music adds to the upscale atmosphere. There is an “upscale” restaurant and bar at this beach which is more expensive than most local establishments. While the menu looked good, we did not order any food here.
Places to Visit
Spetses wasn’t much of a cultural destination for us. We were there to enjoy the town, interact with the friendly locals, explore different areas of the island, and chill at the inviting beaches. There are however a few attractions worth visiting:
Bouboulina Museum
We read about this museum and were intrigued. This private mansion was the home of Lascarina Bouboulina, who is considered a local Spetsiote heroine. She spent most of her fortune and her family’s fleet of ships to help fight for Greece’s independence from the Ottoman Empire, in 1821. The restored property, which still belongs to her family, was converted into a museum. Check it out if you have a chance.
Agioi Panos Monastery
This is the main monastery on the island, built in the early 19th century. Even though we couldn’t visit the interior of the church, we were able to walk around the interesting Greek Orthodox cemetery next to it. The beautiful driveway leading to the church entrance is majestically lined with cypress trees.
Virgin Mary Church – Gorgoepikos
This was our very final stop in Spetses. The church is at the end of a winding and steep narrow road leading to the top of a hill. Its architecture is simple and beautiful. The location is serene, peaceful and has an incredible view overlooking the island of Spetses. This alone makes a stop here worthwhile.
Bars and Restaurants
Bikini Spetses – Bar & Restaurant
Located in the Old Harbor, this is a perfect spot for a cocktail during sunset. It serves great drinks and delicious snacks, including some incredible Arancini with Feta Cheese Mousse. There is a full menu in case you decide to stay for dinner.
Tarsanas
This family-run seafood taverna has great food and an extensive menu. You can select your own fish from a bed of ice and request your preferred preparation. Be aware that the cost of the fish is by the kilo and can be steep. During our visit, the cost was €80-90 per kilo. Rest assured, however, that anything you order will be delicious. We tried their Taramusalata, Greek Salad, and a whole Grouper a la Spetsiota – the local traditional style (oven baked with tomatoes, onions, garlic and parsley).
Tip: We ordered a Greek Salad at every restaurant where we had either lunch or dinner. As expected, this salad is the most common in Greece (every establishment has its own version) and a great value. It’s simple, fresh, delicious, and always large enough to be share by two. This was a great way for us to compare restaurants/tavernas and test the quality of fresh ingredients used along with their different approaches to this simple Greek staple.
Patralis
This was our favorite taverna in Spetses. The restaurant is located north of the New Harbor, on the edge of the water. It has a delightful ambiance, great service and delicious food. It is also a great value. We feasted on their Fried Anchovies, Grilled Octopus with Split Pea and Parsley Pesto, Fried Feta with Sesame and Balsamic Glaze, and Orzo with Cuttlefish, Mussels and Prawns. Do not miss it if you plan to visit Spetses.
Agios Restaurant
Agios is a more casual restaurant located in the heart of Spetses Town, near the New Harbor. The best seats are on the porch or along its sidewalk where you can people-watch while eating your meal. We tried the Eggplant Salad (with zucchini, sundried tomatoes, capers and oregano leaves), the Greek Salad and the traditional Moussaka. The food was great and inexpensive.
Dapia Porto Café
If you are looking for a good cup of coffee, this is your spot. It is located next to the port where the ferries stop and a great place to take a break during the day. The location is ideal for having a Freddo coffee or a lemonade while waiting for the ferry. In addition, in case you need to purchase ferry tickets, the Hellenic Seaways office is right next to it.
HYDRA
Located in the heart of the Argo Saronic Gulf, Hydra is one of the most cosmopolitan Greek islands. It is on the ferry route between Spetses and Athens, so most ferries stop at both islands. As in the case with Spetses, Hydra’s proximity to Athens makes it a perfect destination for a quick getaway. Immediately upon arrival at Hydra Port, you can sense its charm and elegance. The waterfront is filled with yachts and is surrounded by unique shops, bars and restaurants. It is the main hub of activities for the island.
Getting Around
Cars are banned on the island. Likewise, there are no scooters or bicycles to be rented. To get around the island you either walk, take a sea taxi, or ride a donkey. Donkeys and mules carry cargo and visitors’ luggage.
Part of the fun when visiting Hydra Town is getting lost in its maze of stone paved streets and alleyways lined with whitewashed buildings. We really enjoyed losing our bearings while we wandered around town. In addition, we enjoyed walking on the promenade along the water, from Hydra Town to Kaminia, a fishing village about 20 minutes away.
Here are the highlights from our visit:
Beaches and Boating
Boat Excursion
All the island beaches are reached by boat only. With that in mind, we decided to follow a local’s recommendation to take a boat tour around the island. We booked the tour with G&G Hydra Cruises, with Captain Giorgos and his wife Giola. They usually moore their boat in Hydra Harbour, opposite the Clock Tower. To reserve a spot, you can stop by their boat in the morning or do it online. The boat leaves the harbor daily at 11 AM and returns at 5:30 PM.
During our time on the boat, Captain Giorgos provided information about Hydra’s history and tidbits about its legends. We really appreciated that the boat was not too full when we took it. This was a perfect way to experience the different landscapes around the island, which include impressive cliffs along the coast and huge boulders jetting out of the beautiful aquamarine water. Our itinerary included stops for swimming at the Daskalakis Cave (or “Secret Cave”), Limnioniza, and the Agios Georgios area. We also stopped at Nisiza Beach for a lunch break and another splash in the water. Snorkeling equipment is available on the boat.
The boat tour costs €35, and lunch is available for an additional €15. I recommend going to a bakery before boarding the boat and getting Greek pies for lunch. Bakeries offer a wide variety of Greek pies, and the entire meal should cost you only about €4-5. Water is available on the boat. Don’t forget to bring your beach towels, a hat and sunblock. And your camera of course!
Bisti Beach
This small, pebbled beach is in a sheltered bay with shallow waters, making it an ideal location for a swim. The crystal-clear water is calm, like a pool, and inviting. And you can walk quite a distance from the shore in waist high water, if you want to be away from others on the beach.
There are sunbeds for rent and a concession kiosk sells beverages and snacks. We had a Greek Salad which was delicious. (As usual, the salad was large enough to be shared by two.) Remember that you will be walking on pebbles, so bring a pair of beach shoes for your comfort while walking on the beach and going into the water. If all umbrellas are occupied by the time you arrive, you can rent sunbeds and place them under the trees in the rear section of the beach.
Beach boats are moored in Hydra Harbour, right by all the restaurants and cafés. Designated boats go to specific beaches; they are well identified and have signs with prices and departure times. The boat that goes to Bisti Beach also goes to Agios Nikolaos Beach, which is further away. The ride to Bisti Beach is approximately 20 minutes. The round-trip ticket costs €14. You can just show up and pay for your ticket as you board the boat – no reservations needed. Payment is by cash only. Make sure to save your ticket for your return. The boat drops you off and picks you up at the same spot, at one end of the beach.
Bars and Restaurants
… Kai Kremmidi (… And Onion)
We thought this was a good place for a quick lunch or mid-day snack. They are located in the heart of Hydra Town, on one of the narrow charming streets, only steps away from the harbor. The chicken souvlaki sandwich was a perfect option for our late lunch upon arrival in Hydra.
Hydronetta Beach Bar Restaurant
This is undoubtably the best place for drinks while watching the sunset and listening to music. We made a stop here everyday before heading to dinner – and it was worth it every single time. The restaurant sits off the edge of a cliff, overlooking the ocean, right above Hydronetta Beach. (A concrete platform at the bottom of the rocks, accessible by steps, where people jump into the water for a swim.) Given its location, a lot of people arrive in their bathing suits after swimming at the “beach” below.
Kodylenia’s Taverna
This taverna is in Kaminia, which is a 15-minure walk from Hydra Town. It is located in a beautiful setting and has a great view overlooking the ocean and a fishing harbor. This is also a great place to watch the sun set. Their menu is traditional Greek. We tried the Kapari Leaves Kritami (pickled caper baby shoots), Prawns and Mussels in a Garlic Butter Sauce and Pasticcio. The taverna is only open from April to October, during the summer season.
Isalos Café
This café/bar/restaurant occupies a prime location right on Hydra Harbour. It was our favorite place for breakfast and a great way to start every morning. They offer lunch and dinner menus as well, but we did not have other meals there. The breakfast menu is extensive and includes egg dishes, fresh fruit, juices, sandwiches, cereal, etc. And the coffee is excellent. Breakfast here is super affordable.
Xeri Elia Douskos Tavern
We were wandering around town, trying to stay away from the touristy restaurants by the harbor, and came upon this somewhat hidden restaurant. This family-run taverna turned out to be a great find. Its food was delicious.
In addition to many menu items, you can select your own fish from a bed of ice, and they will prepare it in a variety of ways, based on your preference. As mentioned earlier, paying for fish by weight can be quite steep, at the rate of €80-90 per kilo. Compared to the prices of food in Greece, we found this not to be a good value. We decided to try their Greek Salad, Aubergine Iman (delicious stuffed eggplant with broiled goat cheese) and Fried Calamari. However, the pièce-de-résistance was the dessert – Galaktoboureko Kataifi (Greek custard and shredded phyllo pie). I simply have no words to describe how wonderful it was.
Kripto Limani
We decided to try this restaurant based on the recommendation of a local. She told us it was one of her favorite places to eat. The restaurant is family run, and the tables are in the lovely hidden courtyard of their family house. As in the case of most Greek cuisine, the food is simple, fresh and delicious. We tried the Greek Salad, Horta Vrasta with olive oil and lemon (boiled greens – a staple in Greek households), Meat Balls in Tomato Sauce and Fries, and the Stuffed Grape Leaves.
Other Helpful Information
Lodging
Spetses and Hydra are very popular with Greek visitors specially over weekends; make sure to make your hotel reservations well in advance. We waited too long and ended up having a hard time finding a place to stay on both islands.
Our Lodging in Spetses: Hotel Mimoza (good location, nice buffet breakfast, a short walk to the Old Harbor)
Our Lodging in Hydra: Piteoussa Guest House (The suite was small but had its own entrance. They had a very reasonable rate, but it was nothing to write home about.)
Consider staying in Kaminia if you are visiting for a longer period of time and prefer to be away from the buzz of Hydra Town. This picturesque fishing village can be reached via a promenade, along the water, connecting it to the Hydra Harbor. It’s only a 20-minute walk away. You can also take a sea-taxi in lieu of walking. Even though there are no shops in this area, there are several tavernas offering delightful fresh fish.
Transportation
Scooter Rental in Spetses: Illias Rent a Bike (Daily Cost: €20 for a scooter; €15 for an electric bike; €7 for a standard bike)
Horse pulled carriages are also available for hire in Spetses. That makes it for a romantic seaside ride during sunset.
You will be doing a lot of walking in Hydra so make sure to bring comfortable shoes. Another option is to pay for a donkey to carry you and/or your luggage. Donkeys are available right in the heart of the harbor. Sea-taxis are also available at the harbor.
Beaches
Most beaches in Spetses and Hydra are mostly pebbly. Make sure to bring along a reef/beach shoe to walk on the beach and into the ocean.
Getting to the Saronic Islands
Ferries are available from the port of Piraeus in Athens or from the Peloponnese coast. Check out ferryhopper.com for prices and availability. The ferry ticket from Athens to Spetses cost €45 and the ticket from Spetses to Hydra cost €16.
