The Cultural Triangle – a Guide to Sri Lankan Heritage

The Cultural Triangle is in Sri Lanka’s north-central plains.  This area was originally known as Rajarata (Land of Kings) and is home to five UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  The first Sri Lankan great civilization established its kingdom in this region.  And the many ancient remnants of palaces, temples and dagobas that remain, provide you with an incredible glimpse into its magnificent past.  The area is filled with sites that include fascinating ancient city structures, awe-inspiring cave temples, and spectacular hilltop shrines and dagobas.

What is the Cultural Triangle?

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The “Cultural Triangle” is made up by an imaginary line that, you guessed, make up a triangle.  This triangular shape has Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy as its three points.  These are the three great Sinhalese capitals of Sri Lanka.  The region has a wealth of historic sites and is a remarkable example of Sri Lanka’s unique cultural heritage.  In addition to the three cities, there are also extraordinary sites such as the Lion Rock Fortress of Sigiriya and the Dambulla Cave Temple.

Logistics to Visit the Cultural Triangle

Home Base

We chose Sigiriya as our base while visiting sites in the Cultural Triangle.  This was a very convenient location from which to explore the region by taking multiple day trips.  That included a day in Polonnaruwa and another at the Dambulla Cave Temple.  However, even though Anuradhapura and Kandy were within 1.5 to 2.5-hour drives from Sigiriya, we felt that there was enough to explore in those cities that warranted us staying at both places for several nights.  Check out our separate blog on Anuradhapura and Mihintale.

Best Time to Visit the Cultural Triangle

The best time to visit the Cultural Triangle is between January and March.  The area has less rainfall then and temperatures are not too hot.  Before January can be very wet and after March starts to get hot.  However, this is a popular destination year-round.

Getting There

The most efficient way to see the area is to make day trips by car.  Not only it saves you time, but it allows you to make stops along the way and visit sites that you otherwise wouldn’t see.  For instance, we were able to experience the beautiful rice fields along the roads and laugh at the Toque macaques hanging out on the railroad tracks at the Habarana junction.  We took in the beautiful views at the Kantale Tank on the way to Sigiriya and got to check out some of the many food vendors along the way.

Being in a car is also more comfortable and allows a respite from the midday heat, especially on sunny days.  Other options would be to hire a tuk-tuk, to rent scooters or take buses, all of which require that you spend more time on the road.  Your choice of transportation depends on your budget and how much time you have available to travel.

We had an excellent driver who took great care of us.  He is based in Anuradhapura, so it is very easy for him to come to Sigiriya (or any other city) and drive guests within the Cultural Triangle.  WhatsApp is the best way to reach him.  Here is his contact information: Anura Danasiri – Anuradanasiri2007@gmail.com – +94 (77) 238-2007

Our Itinerary in the Cultural Triangle

We spent five nights in Sigiriya because we wanted to explore the Cultural Triangle at a leisurely pace.  The goal was not to be rushed or exhausted every day.  Therefore, we devoted a day for each major experience – climbing Pidurangala, exploring the Sigiriya Fortress site, visiting Polonnaruwa, admiring the Dambulla Caves, and going on a game drive at Minneriya National Park. (See other blogs for Polonnaruwa and national parks.)

Where to Stay

Sigiriya does not have large hotels.  It mostly has homes converted into guesthouses for local families to make a living off the large number of tourists that visit the area.

We originally planned on staying at the Hotel Sigiriya.  It seemed to be a popular property, was conveniently located, and was highly rated on Booking.com.  It has a beautiful pool area and an incredible view of Lion Rock.

However, as we were getting ready to make the reservations, our driver recommended the Sigiri Asna Nature Resorts & Spa.  That turned out to be an outstanding recommendation.  This is a beautiful eco-friendly property with free-standing bungalows located in a wooded site.  It is tranquil and private, has an inviting swimming pool area, and a lovely pavilion where they serve all meals.  This is the perfect place for chilling.  The hotel also has accommodations for drivers.

The food was great, and the chef was super accommodating.  When the owner and the chef discovered that we loved the typical Sri Lankan Rice & Curry, they made sure we had a different variety of curries at every meal.  In fact, we didn’t even have to order the food as they always had an entire meal planned for us by the time they seated us.  We ate at a restaurant in the quaint town center and were disappointed.  As a result, we decided to have all our meals at the Sigiri Asna. 

Hiking Pidurangala

The hike up Pidurangala Rock is not to be missed.  This massive rock formation is less known and usually overlooked by visitors who come the Cultural Triangle.  The most popular time to visit is at sunset; expect to be with many visitors during this time.  A quieter option is to climb it in the early morning to watch the sunrise.  But being that we are not morning people, we couldn’t make ourselves wake up that early.  The summit area is large, so regardless of who is around, you will find your own secluded spot and be rewarded with jaw-dropping panoramic vistas and the view of the Sigiriya Lion Rock.

It is believed that the site was once a prominent Buddhist monastery, dating back to the 1^st and 2^nd centuries B.C.E.  Buddhist monks occupied the site when King Kashyapa took over the Sigiriya Rock as his fortress.  In return, he provided the monks with a newly refurbished and enlarged temple and monastery at Pidurangala.  A cave temple and a stupa at the base of the site, along with an impressive reclining Buddha on the upper pathway, still remain.

The Hike

Pidurangala is located north of Sigiriya Lion Rock and a short drive away.  The hike to its summit is quite challenging.  In addition to the demanding irregular stone stairs leading almost all the way to the top, you will need to climb over some steep boulders to reach the summit.  It makes for a tough hike up and down.  The total climb time is 30-40 minutes depending on your fitness level.

You must buy a ticket from a monk at the base entrance prior to starting your hike.  The cost is only Rs1000 ($5 USD).  Keep in mind that you must pass by the sacred area around the Pidurangala Sigiri Rajamaha Viharaya temple as you start the hike.  That means you must remove your shoes and wear appropriate clothing until you get past this point.  The site is open from 5AM to 6PM.

Sigiri Kassapa Uttararama Viharaya

There are several shrines, dagobas and Buddha statues near Pidurangala because the area was once inhabited by Buddhist monks.  One such place is the Sigiri Kassapa Uttararama Viharaya.  Most likely you will drive by the site on your way to the Pidurangala Rock.  Make sure to stop and take in the beauty and serenity of the Buddha and dagoba at this site.  This will put you in the right frame of mind as you prepare for your climb.

Exploring the Sigiriya Fortress

The ancient city of Sigiriya is the jewel of the Cultural Triangle.   The site is listed as a UNESCO Heritage Site.  The city was planned in a rectangular shape, spanning east and west of the central Sigiriya Rock.  The grounds include the Water Gardens, including ponds and fountains, the Boulder Garden, and the Terraced Garden.  The palace complex was built on top of the central rock, at an elevation of 180 meters (590 Feet) above the surrounding grounds. (360 meters/1181 feet above sea level)

The History

King Kashyapa established Sigiriya as the seat of administration after he executed his father, King Dhatusena.  He built the city as a fortress and placed his palace on top of Sigiriya Rock to be better prepared for an attack.  Kashyapa ruled for 18 years until his half-brother Muggallana, the rightful heir to the throne, succeeded him.  Muggallana had fled to South India but eventually came back with an army to claim the throne.

The administration moved back to Anuradhapura and Sigiriya was converted back to a Buddhist monastery.  The monastery lasted until the 12^th and 13^th centuries C.E. and was abandoned thereafter.

Climbing Sigiriya Rock

This site is impressive.  The landscaping, water features and rock formations are spectacular.  Pathways to the summit lead to the gardens, stairs connecting terraces and passages between large boulders.  These will lead you to the Lion’s Paw Terrace.  This is the upper level plateau from which you start the final ascent to the summit.

There is a large gateway flanked by enormous and impressive lion paws carved into the rock – the Lion Gate.  From this point, there are metal stairs built on the face of the rock taking you to the summit.  The climb is quite long and vertigo-inducing; however, there are landings where you can stop to catch your breath.

It is hard to imagine how King Kashyapa constructed this entire palace complex at such a high elevation.  Remaining building foundations and a water tank give a good sense of the complex layout.  (Make sure to visit the Sigiriya Museum to watch a video showing computer recreations of what the complex may have looked like.)  The views from the top of Sigiriya Rock are simply magnificent.  And you will come across tons of Toque macaques along the way.

The Mirror Wall

When descending from the summit, the exit pathway leads to an area along the Mirror Wall.  Apparently, the wall was highly polished so that the king could see himself as he walked by it.  Nowadays, the wall is covered with poetry verses by visitors going as far back as the 7^th century.  These are known as the graffiti verses of Sigiriya.

Frescoes

There is a spiral staircase along the exit pathway that leads up to a “cave gallery”.  This is the area, under an overhanging rock, where some of the frescoes that covered the western face of the rock remain.  There is evidence that up to 500 female figures were once painted, but only 19 remain.  The frescoes are classified as in the Anuradhapura period, but with their own technique.

Sigiriya Museum

This is an archaeological museum based on years of research at the Sigiriya site.  A visit to the museum will give you an insight into the history in Sigiriya.  One of the most interesting exhibits is a video recreating the palace complex on top of the citadel.

Good to Know

The Sigiriya site is open from 6:30 AM to 7:00 PM.  Tickets cost $30 USD and must be paid in cash – credit cards are not accepted.  Visit the site early in the day or in the late afternoon in order to avoid the heat and the crowds.  Local guides are available for hire at the site.  (We chose to do it on our own.)

The Big White Buddha

There is a majestic, white, standing Buddha that rises out of the vegetation around the base of Sigiriya Rock, when seen from the top of the fortress.  If it piques your curiosity, then head to the Sigiriya Village Temple once you are done visiting the Sigiriya Fortress.  The Buddha is in the local village, just a couple of minutes down the road from the Sigiriya Rock entrance and parking lot used by foreigners.

In addition to housing the large standing Buddha, this intriguing temple contains several decorative elements.  The site is surrounded by an unusual wall of statues depicting male and female monks.  Moreover, there is a stupa and several individual shrines each with its own individual Buddha statues.  The entry ticket only costs Rs200 ($1.00 USD).

Ramakele Stupa at Sigiriya

Ramakele Stupa is believed to be one of the oldest ones in the area, dating back to the late 5^th century or early 6^th century C.E.  The stupa is unusual in that it has three chambers used to house important relics.  (Most stupas have a single chamber.)  This is another remnant of the Buddhist history in Sigiriya.  The preserved bubble-shaped structure is located near the entrance to the Sigiriya Fortress site, at the intersection of Thalkotta Road and the Inamaluwa-Sigiriya Road.

Visiting Ancient Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa is Sri Lanka’s second most ancient city and a must-see destination in the Cultural Triangle.  Kin Parakramabahu I made it the capital of Sri Lanka following the destruction of Anuradhapura in 993 C.E.  It was an important urban center, touched by many civilizations, between the 12^th and 13^th centuries.  It included several temples, shrines and palaces, many of which still have preserved ruins.  Moreover, given the importance of water in the kingdom sustainability, the city’s design incorporated irrigation techniques and reservoirs still used today.  This too is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Organizing the Visit

We went to Polonnaruwa on a half-day trip from Sigiriya, which is only 1.5 hours away by car.  The ancient city covers a large area.  And due to the distances between sites, it is very difficult to visit it on foot.  Some visitors opt to do it on bicycles, which can be rented locally, but the heat can be quite intense for bike riding.  We recommend hiring a driver with either a car or a tuk-tuk to take you around.  It will save you a lot of time as well.

In addition, we recommend hiring a local guide in order to get the most out of your visit.  We found ours at the parking lot next to the Archaeological Museum of Polonnaruwa.  (This is where the guides hang out while waiting for tourists.)  He spoke English well and turned out to be a knowledgeable and personable guide, with a great sense of humor.  First, he took us through the museum to introduce us to all the monuments and the glorious history of the city.  We then headed to the sites in the ancient city.  You can reach our guide, Suranga, through WhatsApp at +94 (077) 673-1130.

Tickets for the visit of the ancient city must be purchased at the museum.  It costs $25 USD and must be paid in cash.  You should allow 3.5 hours for your visit, assuming you have a driver to take you from site to site.  The cost to hire a guide is $20 USD. Read our Polonnaruwa blog for more detailed information.

Being Awe-Struck at the Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple

For centuries, this cave monastery has been a pilgrimage destination in the Cultural Triangle.  The UNESCO Heritage Site encompasses five sanctuaries and is the best-preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka.  They are spectacular.  Over the years, these man-made caves underwent many renovations, until they reached their current interiors in the 18^th century C.E.

Getting There

Dambulla is only 30 minutes away from our hotel in Sigiriya.  So, we combined this visit with a drive to the Avukana Rock Temple.  We also made stops at minor sights along the way.  If you do not have a driver and a car,  you can easily and inexpensively hire a tuk-tuk or a taxi to take you to Dambulla.

Remarkable Spaces

The sanctuaries contain more than 150 polychrome Buddha sculptures, in addition to a few statues of kings and gods.  The statuary is either molded with stucco or clay or carved into the rock walls in the caves.  All the walls and ceilings are covered with brilliant mural paintings.  And a small stupa is part of the interior space of the largest shrine.  You will be awe-stricken by the rich and exquisite details of the craftsmanship employed in these spaces.  This is indeed an outstanding and well-preserved example of the religious art of ancient Sri Lanka.

Pilgrims still use these spaces, thus still maintaining their original use and function.  While the Sri Lankan government is responsible for conserving the caves, the Asgiriya Buddhist monks provide general maintenance, protection and upkeep of the site.  The monks still conduct daily rituals in the temple.  This spectacular site is not to be missed.

The Golden Temple

This is a separate attraction at the base of the Dambulla Cave Temple site, at street level.  When leaving the temple at the top of the hill, the marked exit path will lead you down to the Golden Temple.  The building is a Buddhist Museum and requires the purchase of a separate ticket for admittance.  There is also a large golden stupa across from the museum.  Have your driver drop you off by the Rock Temple ticket office and pick you up at this location, which is just down the same road.

Things to Know Prior to Your Visit

• The Dambulla Cave Temple is located at the top of a hill; you will have to climb a long set of steps (approximately 370) to reach its entrance.  It can take up to 20 minutes to reach the top.
• There are two entrances from which to climb to the temple; however, the ticket office is near the car parking lot and not by the entrance adjacent to the Golden Temple.  Trust me; you don’t want to climb all the way up only to return to the bottom to purchase your ticket.
• The entrance fee for foreign tourists is Rs2000 ($10 USD).
• The site is open from 7AM to 7PM, but the ticket office closes at 5PM.
• Make sure to wear appropriate clothing that covers your legs and shoulders.  You must remove your shoes and leave them outside the temple grounds.  There is a shoe rack where you can leave your shoes for Rs20 ($0.10 USD).  Remove hats as well.
• Keep in mind that there are many Toque macaques in the area.  If you leave your shoes by the entrance, they may not be there by the time you return.
• The stone pavers and rocks can get hot during the day; you may want to bring socks to protect your feet.

Admiring the Avukana (or Aukana) Ancient Rock Temple

A magnificent Buddha standing on a lotus pedestal carved out of the face of a granite formation, is the main feature of this site.  The statue is over 42 feet tall.  It has very delicate details such as the pleats and draping of its robe.   The robe is tightly fit, revealing the shape of the Buddha’s body.  Scholars believe that this carving dates to the 5^th century, C.E.  Remaining brick and stone walls indicate that it was once located within a large image house or shrine.

Planning the Visit

We decided to combine this visit with our half-day trip to the Dambulla Cave Temple.  The Avukana Temple is only 25 miles (40 Km) away from Dambulla.  Since we had a driver, it was easy to add it to our itinerary.  Plus, we made spontaneous stops along the way to visit local temples and the Balalu Wewa reservoir.

The site is equidistant to Sigiriya and Anuradhapura; both are approximately an hour drive to the Avukana Temple.  If you take a tuk-tuk or rent a scooter, expect to spend a bit more time on the road since they don’t go as fast as cars.

Tickets to visit the site cost Rs1000 ($5 USD).  As in all Buddhist temples, you must dress appropriately and remove your shoes upon entering the temple grounds.  There is a bench by the ticket desk where you can leave the shoes.

Enjoying Wildlife at Minneriya National Park

Even though the Cultural Triangle is known for its history and cultural attractions, it is also a region with incredible wildlife.  From scrub plains to mixed evergreen forests to rocky formations and wetlands, Minneriya National Park is a habitat for a large variety of birds and animals.  It is mostly known for the migration of the elephants that take place during the drier months – June to September.  However, even during our February visit, plenty of elephants roamed around.

Many other mammals also make their home here including purple-faced langur monkeys, spotted deer, wild buffalo and wild boar.  Leopards live in the park as well, but they are less common than the ones found in Yala.

In addition, the park is a sanctuary for over 160 species of birds.  Some of these include kingfishers, hornbills, jungle fowl and peacocks.  The wetlands are home for wading birds such as herons, egrets and ibises.

The Game Drive

The easiest way to arrange for a game drive is through your hotel or guest house.  We arranged our safari through our own driver.  By working with his contact directly, we were able to get a more favorable rate of $80 USD.  Expect to pay $100 USD for two adults when booking through hotels.  The price includes the game ride and the entrance fee for the park.

There are two options for drives daily – the jeeps will either pick up at 6AM, for the morning drive, or at 3PM for the afternoon drive.  We opted to go on an afternoon safari, after visiting the Sigiriya Rock in the morning.  Keep in mind that the jeeps remove their tops during the drive, so make sure to wear sunblock and a hat.  In addition, they drive on dirt roads the entire time, and many times behind other jeeps; so, whatever you wear will most likely get covered in red dust.

The Cultural Triangle – a Must-See Region

Sri Lanka is a small island country with tons of attractions to experience.  It has ancient temples and monuments, dense forests, jagged mountains, golden beaches, lush tea plantations, and rich wildlife.   However, if you really want to explore its culture and heritage, you must visit the Cultural Triangle.  It’s hard to think of any other destination with such a concentration of magnificent sites.  In addition, it provides an opportunity to combine cultural and wildlife experiences into one itinerary.  This is one visit you will not regret.

You May Also Enjoy:

• Anuradhapura – a Guide to Sri Lanka’s First Ancient Capital
• Sri Lanka – a Destination That Belongs on Your Bucket List