Jaffna is the kind of place that takes a little while to warm up to, but once you do, you’ll want to explore every nook of it. It has so much to offer. Best yet, after years of being closed off because of a civil war, Jaffna is just beginning to develop its tourism infrastructure. As a result, it still feels a bit off the beaten path.
At times, it seemed as if we were the only tourists in town. And indeed, at many sights, we were the only foreigners around. In fact, most tourists tend not to explore this region, making it the undiscovered north of Sri Lanka. Nonetheless, as with the rest of this fascinating island country, people of Jaffna are warm, welcoming, and curious.
Jaffna’s People . . .
Jaffna is very different from the rest of Sri Lanka. Because the city is majority Hindu-Tamil, it is Sri Lanka’s Tamil cultural and religious center. (For instance, 11% of Sri Lanka’s population is Tamil, most whom reside in the north and east.) The language is different, as are the city’s pace, rhythm, food, and terrain. Tamils have lived in northern Sri Lanka for over two thousand years. Consequently, it is not surprising that the area has a long and rich cultural history that is very distinctive when compared to other regions in the country.
Sri Lanka’s Tamil population is thought to have arrived from the India’s Chola Dynasty. Tension between the Tamils and Sinhalese has existed ever since. In fact, the two cultures fought a 20-year civil war that ended just over a decade ago. Most of the fighting occurred in the north, and signs of the war’s destruction still exist. Indeed, the military maintains a heavy presence many places around Jaffna. At no time, however, did we ever feel unsafe – life felt very routine here.
Travel to and around Jaffna felt very special. For instance, locals were excited and appreciative to host tourists after so many years of war and two years of pandemic-related restrictions. Likewise, we were grateful that we had the chance to visit such an interesting and beautiful place after not being able to travel internationally for a couple of years.
Sightseeing . . .
Jaffna kept us busy for 3 full days. Its magnificent Hindu temples alone kept us active for a large portion of our stay. In fact, there were sights that we did not see, such as the nearby beaches and islands (including Delft Island), so I’m certain additional time there would be well worth it.
Here is our suggested guide to some of the Jaffna sights:
Explore Jaffna Fort
In 1619, the Portuguese built this large fort overlooking Jaffna lagoon. In 1658, the Dutch modified it into a pentagonal shape. The British the occupied it. The fort is surrounded by a moat and contains several ruins of structures that once stood inside its walls. (Some were destroyed during the more recent civil war.) Visitors can check out archaeological history exhibits as they enter the compound, and can enjoy the views of surrounding areas from the walls and five bastions.
Visit Nainativu Island
This was one of our favorite sites around Jaffna. The small island, off the coast of Jaffna Peninsula, is home to two very important religious sites. One is the Hindu Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil and the other is the Buddhist Nagadipa Purana Viharaya.
You need to take a car, bus or a tuk-tuk to the Kurikadduwan Jetty, which is about 45 minutes outside of Jaffna. The road to the jetty is captivating, with fishermen in chest-high water checking their nets and a variety of birds. From there, you hop on a wooden boat for a 20-minute ride to the island’s jetty. When we arrived at the dock to board the boat, we weren’t sure where to go, so we asked around. As always, people were very helpful and as soon as we saw local worshippers lining up to enter a boat, we knew exactly where to go.
The Crossing . . .
The boat ride is certainly memorable (see the pictures below), inexpensive (Rs 40, about US$0.25), and not very comfortable. Because it was very cramped in the back of the boat, we opted for a seat along the side of the boat. Indeed, the boat ride itself was quite an adventure.
Get off the boat at the first stop, which has a dock and a road that leads to the Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil, a spectacular structure. You can’t miss it as you can see the kovil from the water as you approach the dock. Fortunately, we arrived during puja, which takes place around midday; it was an extraordinary experience. The fervent prayer, incense, music and offerings were captivating. As with several of the Hindu temples, men are required to remove their shirts prior to entering the kovil. And, everyone must remove their shoes as well.
The Buddhist temple of Nagadipa is a 10-minute walk from the Hindu Temple. But if you aren’t up for walking, especially due to the heat, hop on a tuk-tuk as the ride will cost you only Rs200-300 ($1-1.50) The Temple is one of the country’s sixteen holiest Buddhist shrines. It is said that Lord Buddha visited this location. According to the chronicles, in the 5th year after enlightenment, the Lord Buddha visited Nagadeepa to settle a dispute between two Naga Kings – Chulodara and Mahodara, regarding the possession of a gem studded throne.
Drive Around Elephant Pass
This is an interesting causeway that links the Jaffna Peninsula to the rest of Sri Lanka. During the civil war, significant fighting took place there. Consequently, the country erected several war memorials as a reminder of the violence that took place in these areas. In addition, there are great spots for birdwatching along the route.
One memorial commemorates the place where Sri Lankan soldier Corporal Gamini Kularathna threw himself on a tank to stop it. The memorial has the tank, mementos, personal effects and a video that explains why he was memorialized.
Another monument marks the opening of the passage from the south to the north on January 10, 2009. It features a large bronze sculpture of Sri Lanka held up by hands, on a square metal base nestled on a mound of grass and stone.
Tour Velanai
Velanai, also known as the Island of Kayts, is located off the Jaffna Peninsula. The island is connected to the mainland by two causeways and on the way to the Kurikadduwan Jetty. It features fantastic birdwatching, churches reflecting the presence of minority Christians in the region, and a war memorial dedicated to 9 Sri Lankan officers killed by a roadside bomb during the civil war. The best scenic drive is along road AB19 towards the northwest, to the quaint Kayts Village.
The wetlands along the roads in Velanai are ideal for birdwatching. As a result, spend some time exploring the dirt side roads. In fact, you’ll spot tons of indigenous species, including Brahminy Kites (a type of eagle), Black Eagles, Painted Storks, Cormorants, Black-headed Ibis, Stilts and Spot-Billed Pelicans. The area is really beautiful, brimming with wildlife and very tranquil.
Walk Through Downtown Jaffna
Jaffna’s center has an interesting dry and wet market, with exotic fruits, dry goods, interesting shops (e.g., stores specializing in dry fish, a row of funeral stores selling coffins, etc.), and a lot of cows in the streets. For instance, stroll through the busy center to get a good sense of local day-to-day life.
Explore Jaffna Hindu Temples
Everywhere you look in Jaffna, there are stunning Hindu Temples, each having a similar architecture but very different details. The structures and decorations are magnificent. Ask anyone (your tuk-tuk driver, hotel staff, car driver) for a list of his or her favorite Hindu Temples and you’ll come up with a number of spectacular places to visit. Do not miss the opportunity to visit these extraordinary structures. And, if you can, plan your visit so you arrive during puja which typically takes place in the late morning. As a result, you’ll be able to see the inside of the temple and experience the ceremony.
Here are some of the Hindu Temples we visited and loved:
Nallur Kovil
This huge Hindu temple is one of the most important ones in Sri Lanka. As a result, do not miss it. It has two huge golden towers that are very ornate and distinctive. The interior is gold too. No photos are allowed inside the temple.
Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil
This famous Hindu temple is located north of Jaffna and is one of the oldest shrines in the region. Nearby is an adjacent water tank, the Keerimalai Springs. It is believed to have medicinal properties due to high mineral content. Men and women bath in different areas separated by a wall.
Maruthanamadam Anjaneyar Kovil
This elaborate Hindu temple features an enormous statue of Hanuman, a warrior monkey. The temple is on the way to Keerimalai. It is definitely worth a stop.
Point Pedro
Point Pedro is the northernmost point of Sri Lanka. In fact, its name is derived from the Portuguese name “Ponta das Pedras” (Stones Point). It was a trading post in colonial times. It features a lighthouse, interesting temples, colonial buildings, and a beautiful beach making the area worth a stop. On a clear day, you may be able to see India’s southern coastline which is approximately 40 miles away.
Jaffna Public Library
In 1841, Jaffna built its library. Unfortunately, in July 1981, and angry pro-govenmnet mob burnt it down. Then, after the 2002 ceasefire, it was one of the first buildings rebuilt. Fortunately, the restoration follows its 1959 design. Its architecture is reminiscent of Sri Lanka’s colonial times. Before its destruction, it contained a world renown collection of irreplaceable Tamil documents.
Take in Delft Island
Take the daily ferry that leaves from Kurikkaduwan Jetty, operated by the Sri Lankan Navy. There is one round-trip service per day, leaving at 9AM and returning at 2:30PM. This famous northern island features old Dutch forts and other colonial structures, temples, wild horses, and beautiful beaches. If you run out of time, we would recommend visiting the Island of Nainativu in lieu of visiting Delft Island; that’s what we ended up doing.
Ancient Kadurugoda Viharaya
This site contains remains of an ancient Buddhist temple dating back to the 1st century AD. It is comprised of 20 stupas and stupa foundations varying in size from 8 to 23.5 feet in diameter. Because the stupas are made from gray coral stone and have a distinguished pattern, they are very unique. Additionally, they have umbrella shaped pinnacles on the tops rather than the typical square shaped architectural ornaments.
Getting Around Jaffna . . .
The predominant language in Jaffna is Tamil (not Sinhala). However, English is widely spoken here as it is in the rest of Sri Lanka. People are eager to assist. As a result, getting around is easy and inexpensive. Because tuk-tuks are everywhere, they are the most popular mode of transportation, and their drivers are keen to give you a ride. They are also available to be hired for the day or half-day to take you around to the various sites. Moreover, the city center is relatively compact and somewhat walkable. Read our blog with additional information on how to get around Sri Lanka.
Hotels . . .
We stayed at the North Gate by Jetwing Hotel, a nice hotel in a good location just a few steps away from the train station. The hotel was modern, clean and efficient with a pool and bar on the roof and a large, open dining room on the second floor. The breakfast buffet was substantial and delicious. It featured a large variety of western and Sri Lankan specialties, including our favorite, egg hoppers.
We also had an opportunity to visit the Jetwing Jaffna Hotel, also in a good location, that appeared to be a little more upscale that the North Gate. We had an excellent dinner buffet there featuring many dishes from the area’s local cuisine – crab curry, mutton curry, red-hued pittu, vadai, and so much more. Dinner was outstanding, albeit touristy and pricy by Sri Lanka standards.
Restaurants . . .
Generally, our best meals in Sri Lanka were at small, family run places or at the smaller hotels, where the chef was proud to serve us his version of Sri Lankan dishes (usually Rice and Curry). However, we did not have the opportunity to eat in that style when we were in Jaffna. Nonetheless, we dined really well and we highly recommend these places:
Mangos
Our favorite restaurant in Jaffna (actually, in all of Sri Lanka) is Mangos located at 359/3 Kovil Rd, Jaffna. Because we loved it so much, we ate there again the following evening. Mangos is popular with locals and tourists alike and everyone feels welcomed there. Its menu is South Indian/Sri Lankan vegetarian, featuring fresh dosas, naans, masalas, paneers, juices, lassis, and lots of vegetable stir-fries.
Our server Vincent was eager to help us and spoke good English. We followed his excellent advice regarding what to order. One evening, we had the Paneer Tikka Masala, Spicy Mushroom Pepper Fry and a Cheese Dosa which was served with tomato-pepper chutney, green chili sauce with coconut milk, and a vegetable curry. The next evening, Vincent recommended the Chili Parotta Set with curried chickpeas and the Aloo (potato) Pepper Fry. In addition, we tried the Cheese and Garlic Naans. Everything was delicious.
The restaurant is not the easiest place to find. Nevertheless, it is worth the trouble to get there. The kitchen is outdoors, and long banquet style tables are set under an open-air, wooden roof. They also don’t have utensils; you need to eat with your hands, which is the traditional Sri Lankan way to eat a meal. Because it is a really great place to eat, I’d make it my go-to spot if I lived nearby.
Buffet at Jetwing Jaffna
At our hotel concierge’s suggestion, we ate at the Jetwing Jaffna Hotel. It was excellent. However, be warned: no locals were dining there. Nonetheless, the exquisite buffet featured Jaffna’s famous cuisine, including for instance its famous crab and mutton curries. Other dishes included the Jaffna Odiyal Kool (seafood soup), Bandakka (okra) Salad, Jaffna Style Vegetable Rice, and Brinjal (eggplant) with Chickpeas.
The desserts included Rasavalli Pudding, Watalappam, Lesaria, Jalebi and Coconut Toffee. Best yet, the ingredients and preparation were top notch and the setting was really lovely. Dinner was pricy by Sri Lanka standards (still cheap if you are traveling from a western country). Nevertheless, we had an opportunity to sample a variety of Jaffna’s specialties in an upscale setting with high standards.
Rio Ice Cream
After a delectable dinner at Mangos, we stopped off at the very popular Rio Ice Cream parlor. Without a doubt, it’s a very local spot and features a delightful ice-cream with a variety of flavors and toppings, milkshakes, and light savory items. (Ordering is a bit confusing – you pay for your ice-cream at the counter and then hand your ticket to the people behind an adjacent crowded window where they prepare your food.) It was delectable and a sweet finish to an outstanding meal.
Don’t Miss Out . . .
Jaffna is very special and unique because of its Tamil culture. It has a wealth of interesting sights, great food, and warm and welcoming people. Best yet, it is just now opening up to tourists which makes it one of those rare places that has not yet been “discovered”. Unfortunately, Jaffna is not on most standard itineraries of Sri Lanka. And that’s a shame. Jaffna was one of the highlights of our trip and we are certain it will be one of yours too.
